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Valve Adjustment

andy.lane1

andy.lane1

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Location
Dublin,Ireland
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2001 1.8 SE Facelift
Hey Everybody.

Going to do the valve adjustment on my car and cannot what they should be anywhere. Does anybody know what the valve adjustment settings should be on a F18B2 Engine.

thanks for any help you can give me
Andy
 
Here you go, settings in stone cold engine ;)

Intake: 0.26 mm (0.010 in) + 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
Exhaust: 0.30 mm (0.012 in) + 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
 
hi there,just a quick question,how do you know if you need a valve adjustment,is there a way of telling,and is it easy to do, if it makes a difference id like to do it myself,
 
Usually when they are out of specifications, the engine could be more noisy, almost like a diesel tick-tack when way too much out of specifications.
It should be done every once in a while, not sure what is the Honda recommended interval.

Its not an hard job and it doesn't need many tools, take a look at this, it cover the basics:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA
 
skhell said:
Here you go, settings in stone cold engine ;)

Intake: 0.26 mm (0.010 in) + 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
Exhaust: 0.30 mm (0.012 in) + 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
Click to expand...
As per usual thanks Pedro. Now for the stupid Question. This is the first time I have done this so The measurements you have above, when you say + 0.02mm what do you mean. do I add that to 0.26 to get 0.28? I know this may sound stupid but Needless to say I dont want to Mess this up.

Thanks
Andy
 
It means that to be according to Honda limits, it should be between 0.24mm and 0.28mm for the intake and 0.28mm and 0.32mm for the exhaust.

Oh, I have just noticed that's missing one thing in those settings, which explains your question :blush:

So here is how it should be:
Intake: 0.26 mm (0.010 in) +/- 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
Exhaust: 0.30 mm (0.012 in) +/- 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
 
A good tip for who have never done this job:

Taking the intake valves as example, here is what I usually do to decide if its ok:

The 0.010 inches feeler gauge get in easily and slide with some drag, but the next immediate thicker feeler, which in my case is 0.011inches, either it should not fit in the gap, or, if it fits, it should be hard to fit in and hard to slide.

Sorry about this bad English, but I am lacking some technical terms about this one :D
 
Thanks for that tip Pedro.

I've still to get round to checking mine out, but I'll remember this tip ;)


Andy
 
skhell said:
A good tip for who have never done this job:

Taking the intake valves as example, here is what I usually do to decide if its ok:

The 0.010 inches feeler gauge get in easily and slide with some drag, but the next immediate thicker feeler, which in my case is 0.011inches, either it should not fit in the gap, or, if it fits, it should be hard to fit in and hard to slide.

Sorry about this bad English, but I am lacking some technical terms about this one :D
Click to expand...

Again sir Thank You. One more question if you dont mind me picking your brain. Oil. Which do you recommend? also fully Synthetic or Simi-Synthetic? the reason I ask is I am going to do a full service while I am doing the Valves.

Andy
 
Andy said:
Again sir Thank You. One more question if you dont mind me picking your brain. Oil. Which do you recommend? also fully Synthetic or Simi-Synthetic? the reason I ask is I am going to do a full service while I am doing the Valves.

Andy
Click to expand...

100% Synthetic is always better, although more expensive. At the moment I am using a 5W-40 from Motul, which I bought at opieoils.co.uk. Make sure you also replace the oil filter, and its better to go for a Honda original one, its not that expensive and you can't go wrong with that ;)
 
skhell said:
100% Synthetic is always better, although more expensive. At the moment I am using a 5W-40 from Motul, which I bought at opieoils.co.uk. Make sure you also replace the oil filter, and its better to go for a Honda original one, its not that expensive and you can't go wrong with that ;)
Click to expand...


That was fast. I will be using honda parts. although strangely they are cheaper on everything except spark plugs. they are almost triple the price of anywhere else. and even stranger they are the cheapest for a fuel filter quoted me €45.66 everywhere else i am looking at the high €60's One more. Coolant. Which do you recommend? Looking at some and they are saying not to use on certain rads as it will eat the solder on them.
 
Oh coolant, that’s another one to go at Honda, or at least one that has a coolant ratio 50%, to avoid any future "corrosion".

When I did mine, I looked for these 50% ratio fluids, and they were about the same price as the one from Honda. I think I payed 30€ for a 5Liters bottle. You will need two of those, the circuit takes more that 5 litres, I guess..., although I am not sure if on bottle would not not be enough, since there is always a small amount of fluid that gets in the engine...
 
Hello People who are smarter than me. I must ask your guidance again. Just want to get my facts straight before I do this valve adjustment. Do I have to remove the spark plugs before I start moving the crank. I don't believe I do but some said that I do. Just wanted to make sure before I have to get a new engine :)

As always thanks in advance
Andy
 
I didn't when I did mine, but it will make the crank easier to turn if you do. So it's up to you :) Good luck.
 
Hey Guys,

Just wanted to say thanks for all the suggestions and help. Did the valves today even though it was raining and it went grand. Or so I think. I am sure I will see valves shooting through the bonnet in the next few days. But just wanted to say thank you to all that contributed to the outcome. Best thing I did was join this forum, Has saved me a small fortune. Now the service next week

Andy
 
Thanks for that Andy, glad you got it sorted. You need 3 hands to do that job eh? No, let's not go there....

Which jobs will you do on your service?
 
Attaboy said:
Thanks for that Andy, glad you got it sorted. You need 3 hands to do that job eh? No, let's not go there....

Which jobs will you do on your service?
Click to expand...
Hey Man
thankfully I had a friend help. Must have looked like idiots. I was holding the feeler gauge and the screw driver and he was adjusting the nuts. And the two of us out in the rain. Glad nobody has pics to post. :lol:

The service next week will consist of me changing the oil, already ordered from our friends at opieoils.co.uk (thanks Pedro) as it is really expensive over here,and filter, change the plugs, the air filter and the fuel filter as It is causing the fuel pump to work overtime some times. Sometimes it sounds like there is a street sweeper a few cars back from me, it is that noisy some times. In fairness the chap I bought the car off did say that his mechanic suggested it be changed. that was at the end of October 2010, so it is about time I did it. and I am going to renew the coolant. There has been a smell of burning coolant ever since I bought the car and I cannot find a leak. I have never had to top it up in 8 months so it is not loosing any so I am going to change it just in case it was not done at the last service. Unfortunately it is a smell I am all too familiar with. I had a 1997 BMW 520i and in the year I owned it I had to get the whole cooling system replaced twice. including the car it was the best €20,000 in a year I have ever spent :angry:
 
Hi

I think it takes 4.3 ltrs of oil. This is a very useful oil filter removal tool to have in your bag.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-65MM-OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-/260677091043?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb190bee3#ht_500wt_1156

Sump bolt is 33ft-lbs and I always replace the crush washer.
Sparks are 13ft-lbs
Coolant plug also has a little rubber washer/gasket which is recommended to renew. Although I did renew mine, the existing one looked in perfect condition.

Haven't done the fuel filter yet, thats next on the list ;)
 
AndyB1976 said:
HiI think it takes 4.3 ltrs of oil. This is a very useful oil filter removal tool to have in your bag. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-65MM-OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-/260677091043?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb190bee3#ht_500wt_1156Sump bolt is 33ft-lbs and I always replace the crush washer.Sparks are 13ft-lbsCoolant plug also has a little rubber washer/gasket which is recommended to renew. Although I did renew mine, the existing one looked in perfect condition.Haven't done the fuel filter yet, thats next on the list ;)
Click to expand...

Definitely worth changing the o-ring on the radiator drain plug otherwise the plug will leak afterwards.

Good luck with the fuel filter.
 
Pepster said:
For doing vave lash I recommend a tool like this one.I have a factory tool but the principle is the same.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Honda-Jam-Nut-Valve-Adjustment-Tool-/400222987147?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d2f26238bit make the hold process easy and once finished torque up the nut and recheck the valve lash.. easy
Click to expand...

Hmmm.....still need 3 hands though....what about the Clikadjust?
 
Pepster said:
For doing vave lash I recommend a tool like this one.I have a factory tool but the principle is the same.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Honda-Jam-Nut-Valve-Adjustment-Tool-/400222987147?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d2f26238b


it make the hold process easy and once finished torque up the nut and recheck the valve lash.. easy
Click to expand...

That's the exact tool that i have. Couple that to a set of feeler gauges and you're laughing!
 
Glad to hear it works okay Si - mine arrived in the post this week so I'll soon be chortling away!
 
I will have to invest in a that tool. Just a quick update. I finished the service. All went well. The Fuel Filter was easy once the system was depressurized. Although one of the bolts holding it in sheared off due to rust. It does not appear to have ever been changed, which I find odd on a car with a full Honda service history but what do I know.

Andy
 
Great job Andy.

Yes main dealer servicing is definitely the topic of the moment.
 
I still maintain that a dealer service is not something that is important. I'd much rather have had the service done in an independant garage to a dealership. For most dealers it's all about the numbers and not doing what best for the customer or the car.

Let us know how you get on Cliff. When i did mine i had to do it on my own so just kept making a little adjustment and then checking again. :lol: Took longer, but then i'm really picky when it come to my car so everything always takes me longer anyway :lol: :lol:
 
Clikadjust has arrived, not tried it out yet, but this demo looks good...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_tih9sUU
 
Dude it is such a satifying job to do! I felt like a mechanic when i did mine, when as a lot of people know, i'm really not :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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