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Vibrations at 50-60mph

Udai

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Location
London
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Accord 2.2 i-CTDI
Hello everyone,

Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem before I take the car to a mechanic.

When accelerating from 50 to 60mph our 7th gen 2.2ICTDI vibrates so much to the point the whole car is shaking. I've serviced it on time to date, the car has done 185,000 miles, we've driven it for about 10k with only minor standard wear and tear issues. I also have the full service history (garage report) from birth and the car has been very well looked after.

On a side note we keep losing a lot of air in our front left tire, its dropping from 220/230 (I can't remember which) to around 115 in the space of a few weeks. The other tires are completely fine. I've taken it back and forth for balancing but that does nothing.

Not sure if the two are related. Any ideas?

Udai
 
2 possible causes, either wheels out of balance or the inner drive shaft joints worn. Does it still vibrate at 50-60 if you take your foot off the accelerator? Or is it only when accelerating?
 
I think its just when accelerating but not tried taking my foot off the pedal, will try it later today. What does it mean either way?

It's definitely not the balance I've re-done them about 4 times in the last 3 months
 
More than likely the drive shaft inner joints have worn. It's a common issue. You could get your mechanic to remove the shafts and inspect the inner joints for wear. If they arecworn you normally see wear marks on the joint.
 
^ yep, fairly common problem on these cars, just as common on the 2.4 petrol as the 2.2 diesel

The harder you accelerate, the worse it is. If you take your foot off the accelerator pedal and put your foot down on the clutch, if the vibration stops then that is definitely what the problem is.
 
Ok thanks mate I'll get it checked out, do they just replace the joints or do they need to replace the whole drive shaft? And do you have any idea how much the job should cost?

Sorry I'm a rookie! ;-) I'll take the car down to the honda dealers next week but I know from previous dealings they don't really put a lot of effort in to their work and still charge a bomb
 
You can get just the inner joints. This normally is enough to fix it but without seeing how worn they are its hard to say if you need the rest of the shaft
 
Avoid a dealer if you can, it will cost a fortune.

New OEM driveshafts complete, or just the joints, are very expensive anyway.

To some extent, cost also depends which side it is.

Front-wheel drive cars have the gearbox offset to one side, so there is one driveshaft direct from gearbox to wheel on one side, and an inter-mediate shaft going under the engine to the driveshaft on the other side.

There are lots of threads on here about this, it hasn't come up very often recently, probably because other people have found the threads. Some of the threads have pictures of the shafts, and pictures of the schematic drawings.

Basically a driveshaft has one large joint on the wheel end (aka CV joint), and a small joint on the other end (up towards the gearbox or the inter-shaft). Even the inter-shaft can cause problems.
 
Anyway I can get a look at it or is it located in a dodgy place?
 
Udai said:
Anyway I can get a look at it or is it located in a dodgy place?
you can't tell by looking at it yourself, check it out using the driving test in #5

I'll look for the best thread(s)
 
Thanks mate I'll check it out, need to go to the dealer to get the security code on my bluetooth reset (don't ask) so I'll get a price for the drive shaft while im there.

Thanks for all the help, you guys are always awesome!
 
Driveshafts are expensive.cheapest way get reconditioned with warranty.
 
I have the same symptoms. No vibration when NOT accelerating. No vibration when Braking. Vibration as I accelerate from 50 to 70 in any gear, but the harder I accelerate the worse the vibration. Car is smooth from 70 to erm more than 70. If I had a private airfield, It might possibly be smooth under hard acceleration all the way to 130 (Who knows ;) )

Now whilst changing the oil I noticed there is an anti vibration contraption, mounted to the bottom of the front subframe, which is basically a steel block held in place by 6 rubber arms (attaching it to a sort of cradle). Held onto the front subframe by 2 big bolts. Now I'm no expert, but my contraption was broken at the rubber arms, and in my humble opinion as a Chartered Manufacturing Engineer, this design BODGE is there for a reason. Whether it fixes what everyone else thinks is a drive shaft issue is unclear, but I've just ordered one from a main dealer, as quite frankly, it's not going to make it worse, and it is there to do something. They have never sold one, and therefore it's probably a red herring, but hey.
Might arrive before the weekend. Hopefully.
 
Not got one of those on the 2.4 petrol, but the 2.4 petrol is known to suffer from same driveshaft issues.
 
Mark, I never noticed anything like that when I lowered the front subframe and took off my engine sump (nor any reference to it in my Honda service manual. Sounds like a bolt-on bodge to me... but why? What do Honda call this part?

My pre-facelift has never vibrated under accel/decel in all the years I've had it, so they can be vibration-free when completely stock.
 
t's to reduce/prevent engine vibrations at idle from being referred through the chassis into body panels.

Being a Chartered Ant Trainer (ants must break step when crossing straw bridges), and since the weights are not on every diesel Accord, I would guess that a technician measures the vibrations and selects the appropriate size to fit to the subframe (a bit like wheel balancing).
 
When I described it to the Parts man, he was able to show me a picture of it on an exploded parts diagram.

Well if it makes the car smoother at idle, I don't think I'll notice. But it is broken, so I've got nothing to loose. Other than not actually solving the stupid vibration that comes at 55mph and is gone by 65 mph and gets worse the more acceleration you apply.

At a steady speed in this range it does not vibrate.
 
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