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What have you done to your Accord lately?

Channel Hopper said:
What price do others on here pay for their coolant and should I stick with the Honda brand, or is there a good alternative ?
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Well i noticed my cooling fans kicking in a little more often over past couple of months so decided id replace coolant.Ive owned car 3 years and this is only service job id never done.Old stuff drained out nicely and wasn't dirty but you could tell from its consistancy and cloudyness it was long overdue change.
Opted for the blue Honda type 2 stuff cost £25 from cox motor parts delivered.bled/burped the system and after a few days use there is a notable difference imo.Cooling fans havn't kicked in once and even though the thermometer hardly moved previous it now sits a fraction lower and remains still.
Great coolant highly recommend although its actually what should be in these engines.
 
On topic i have been modifying my tourer over the summer.....type s bodykit fitted,fully refurbed penta alloys in honda anthracite grey,led mood lighting inside and a few other bits.Will post pics once i reinstall the photo compressing app on my new phone.
 
Kaput! said:
Well i noticed my cooling fans kicking in a little more often over past couple of months so decided id replace coolant.Ive owned car 3 years and this is only service job id never done.Old stuff drained out nicely and wasn't dirty but you could tell from its consistancy and cloudyness it was long overdue change.
Opted for the blue Honda type 2 stuff cost £25 from cox motor parts delivered.bled/burped the system and after a few days use there is a notable difference imo.Cooling fans havn't kicked in once and even though the thermometer hardly moved previous it now sits a fraction lower and remains still.
Great coolant highly recommend although its actually what should be in these engines.
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Thanks and yes, ordered the Honda type 2 online for the £25 for 5litres. How much is required from empty to full ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
Thanks and yes, ordered the Honda type 2 online for the £25 for 5litres. How much is required from empty to full ?
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Mine drank the whole 5L bottle.Header tank level was near min before change,now bang on max! Not sure what manual says but i calculate 4.9L inc draining heater matrix etc.Funny thing is i disconnected hoses there and nothing drained out.I did jack car at rear just to aid draning from lowest point....plug.
Seems well designed system that in my case allowed every drop of old coolant to drain without having to undo more pipes.
 
just did a full service
fitted new 18 inch team dynamics wheels with toyo tr-1 tyres
new H&R 30mm lowering springs
fitted an aux lead to the back of the head unit
fitted a Mercedes power steering radiator as the Honda one had rotted away and was leaking
put in some yellow tinted front fog lamp bulbs
will be fitting new rear brake pads discs and possibly calipers as the brakes are binding
then its time for performance mods
 
Rats, I received the 5litre type 2 coolant earlier but from the following thread it looks like there is close to 7 litres of the stuff in there.

DIY 7th Gen Diesel: Coolant Change

My car, now seven years old, should have had a coolant change at five years. I've no idea if the previous owner did this, or for that matter if they just filled it with lemonade. As I've just hit 60K miles, and the cold weather is just around the corner I thought it wise to change the coolant...
typeaccord.co.uk

I would love to get the whole lot out and flush a couple of times since I doubt anyone previously has gone the whole hog (even I didn't bother when I first bought her, probably why the steel pipe rusted away.

I'll carry out a couple of water flushes in the next two days to see just how much sediment comes out, currently the starter, block and sump are a light brown colour where I've been running a total loss system for almost six weeks.
If it runs clear after the third I may consider just topping up without trying to find the elusive bolt at the back of the engine but if the corrosion is trapped in the engine block and frees off later then I've wasted a few hours, £25 and a small chance the water pump vanes start chewing solids.
 
Damn thats a lot more...thought you had petrol.....glad i have lol Hope it goes as easy as mine did :)
 
Fortunately I've been a bit more careful with the flushing, leaving it about four days between draining and refilling.

And........ I've found - actually heard a hissing - another leak, this time on the other side of the EGR cooler, its own pipe that goes straight into the head with presumably an o-ring as a seal.

I'm hoping I don't have to dismantle more than a few bolts to replace this one before I have a watertight engine, really annoying but waiting has saved £25 of coolant from escaping.
 
Double rats.

The corrosion around the inlet was a red - rusty - herring.

The sound leak appears to be coming from the rear of the engine, and I can see two pipes running to the heater matrix now I've removed the engine cover.

Whilst there is no visible loss of water (I can hear steam escaping) when I turn on the heater it is accompanied by a rise in engine temperature on the gauge until turned back off, along with a loss of water in the tank above the radiator.

The heater has never really worked since day one, so to verify without taking apart the console, is connecting the two pipes together a viable method to continue driving for the time being or is there a pressure / temperature sensor that might throw up a fatal error on the ecu ?
 
in the last couple months
H&R lowering springs
18 inch team dynamics wheel with new Toyo tr1 tyres
colour coded grill
headlights restored
wind deflectors
full service
coolant, brake and clutch fluid and gearbox oil change
aux cable

new brakes all round coming
custom induction kit coming
 
Annoyingly I can't trace the loss of water. It's not coming from the matrix (air inside the cabin is dry), but I'm losing about 2 litres in a six mile drive and have to top up once the hissing has stopped.

I thought switching the heater fan on was accelerating the loss but it appears not to be the case.

Another few hours under the bonnet this weekend.
 
Found it

8mm pipe right under the back of the engine, tied to the emissions pipes as well

A right sod to replace when the engine is warm.

Leak 2.jpg
 
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Now it looks as though the thermostat has expired as I'm getting varying temperature readings on the dashboard and when draining the radiator is cold at the base, forced out by the steam from the top.

I've ordered a replacement but looking under the bonnet it's a right pig to open the housing next to the aircon compressor.

It is the two 10mm bolts only to undo and take off the lid, or is it better to take off the three/four pipes for access?
 
So, firstly - Get all tools required, all manner of small 1/4" and 3/8" socketry.

Disconnect battery (otherwise you can short out the 12mm nutted terminal nearby to ground)

Onto the thermostat housing, which is in an almost impossible position to work on. The pipe clamps nearby will shred flesh on fingers, hands and arms so tread carefully.

Take off the main pipe to the radiator expansion/reservoir tank, move over to LHS near battery

Remove lower radiator pipe,

Disconnect compressor and thermostat electrics.

Everso gently start undoing the two 10mm (6mm) bolts on the housing, tighten first if possible and then undo with plenty of penetrating fluid (I've snapped one of them leaving 8mm of stud that I might try removing later)

Take off cover and pull out thermostat.

Clean off all corrosion and check for operation, or not.

Tomorrow's work later.
 
I've had to reassemble the car without the thermostat to get around for the time being (another is on its way for Friday, along with stud extractor). Surprisingly even with one bolt on the cover it's not leaking, but I did fit the rubber gasket that surrounds the old thermostat. Will drop it in some hot water later to see if it does anything.
 
Front offside brake binding heavily, wheel is getting warm. Had the calliper off the disk today and cleaned and greased the pads where they contact the calliper.
It made no difference so calliper service kit is next on the agenda. Had the same issue on the rear and ***ume it is common on most cars.
 
Before you spend time and money, try to press the caliper back with the largest wrench you can get hold of (I think I paid £16 for mine).

I did this on the nearside rear when it was binding a couple of years back and so far the fault has not reappeared.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Before you spend time and money, try to press the caliper back
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I forced the piston back with a G-clamp, it moved quite easily compared to some seized ones I've worked on, so ***umed it wasn't the piston seized.
But after cleaning and greasing the glide pins and brake pads I'm back to the piston. Going to order this kit before starting, in case the piston is too far gone when I remove it.

www.ebay.co.uk

Front Brake Caliper Repair Kit & Piston (1 Pot) For Honda Accord (2008-2017) | eBay

Suitable for vehicles with SINGLE piston calipers (1 pot) 1x Front brake caliper repair kit / seals 1x Front brake caliper piston (Hard chromed) 57mm Suitable for models shown in vehicle compatibility Kit contains parts for one brake caliper Includes Free sachets of ***embly paste & guide pin...
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Don't see the logic in that, maybe you can explain...
 
stellamon said:
Don't see the logic in that, maybe you can explain...
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The stale hydraulic fluid in the caliper, along with the debris on the inside of the cylinder needs to be cleared out. Bleeding will only remove the fluid. Without stripping completely both can be temporarily purged by forcing the majority of the chamber back into the main reservoir ,removing dirty fluid from there, then refilling with fresh(er) stuff.

It works on bike hydraulics where there is usually only twocalipers on one line,but I found it worked on the tourer, I'm guessing the dual fail safe of front left/rear right and vice versa shrinks down the total pipe capacity back to the bonnet.

The seizing of the near side rear may also be down to the abs/vsa circuit but I've not looked closely enough at the routing pathway.
 
Yeh, well, not sure I agree with that theory, but each to there own eh!
Stripped it down yesterday, fitted new piston and seals and all good now, no warm wheel anymore.

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New power steering hose from pump to rack on 2.2 diesel. Very fiddly and messy job but got there in the end.

Also new front disks and pads to relieve a horrendous warped disk vibration !
 
Grayedout said:
Also new front disks and pads to relieve a horrendous warped disk vibration !
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Ah, That reminds me. I've had over the past few weeks, when braking from about 30mph to 10mph where there is an odd vibration, not unlike the car crossing over small cobblestones, with a minute accompanying road noise and ever so slight feel back from the pedal.

Issue is it is not all the time and so I cannot work out what it might be. Pads and discs appear to be OK, noise is from the front end (I think)

Any idea ?
 
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Just to follow up took it out tonight with the new disks and pads and vibration is still there but comes and goes. Can also feel a bit of brake binding and when I got to my destination the nearside front was hot and smelling.

The brake piston was free to move to I'm guessing it's flexible hoses and so ordered a pair. Hopefully this will solve it and could be your problem as well.
 
Grayedout said:
Just to follow up took it out tonight with the new disks and pads and vibration is still there but comes and goes. Can also feel a bit of brake binding and when I got to my destination the nearside front was hot and smelling.

The brake piston was free to move to I'm guessing it's flexible hoses and so ordered a pair. Hopefully this will solve it and could be your problem as well.
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Thanks. :)

All pistons move well , no issue with heavy braking and definitely no heating parts.
I checked all discs by eye by spinning the wheels when I had the tyre replaced after the pothole incident.

It is also intermittent, but possibly based on the decelleration. Will inspect further as MOT is due in three weeks.
 
bit dirty but otherwise ok
nR4OHLo.png

since last time..
modulo/aspec lip
bug deflector
sold the et0 steelies, went with 30mm spacers for the et35 wheels instead
cut up the type s grille and made it deeper with a different honeycomb mesh, will probably fiberglass it and repaint from grey to black later
new led bar and two extra pods for side light
80% tint
morimoto micro d2s bi-xenon conversion, hylux 45w ballasts. looks like halogen but much more potent
 
i replaced both rear wheel bearings, both rear brake calipers and the rear drop links as i had a couple of noises from the rear end.
unfortunately none of this solved the noises lmao
 
Thanks for the update, the vibration I encountered two years ago never came back but I suspect it was the disc protector that sits just behind, well everything.

They are incredibly rusty and move about at speed, when applying the brakes following a motorway run then they would touch other imprtant things.

I don't do much motorway stuff these days so currently no noises/vibration.
 
Nathjkent said:
i replaced both rear wheel bearings, both rear brake calipers and the rear drop links as i had a couple of noises from the rear end.
unfortunately none of this solved the noises lmao
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Mate I know the pain. I was getting knocking front left a couple of months ago, so I got the car up in the air and discovered the left tie rod end had lots of play and the boot was leaking. Replaced both sides (Meyle) the following weekend and the noise was still there. In my haste I hadn’t noticed it was the upper control arm doing the knocking, so I replaced both sides the weekend after (Febi), then discovered that the LCA bush right side had also just failed. Damn these potholes!
 
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