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wobbling accord

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Simonmcroy81

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Location
United Kingdom
Car
2004 i-cdti tourer
Hiya, just fitted rear discs to my accord and it didn't exactly go well. Anyway, after getting it all sorted and back together i now have a wobble under acceleration and at 40-60mph. Could this be the result of a warped disc through not fitting them properly? Any help or advise will be greatly recieved.
 
It sounds like there not fitted proper i would get this looked at ASAP.
Have you torqued the wheel nuts to 108n.Also iv moved your topic to the correct section Simon.
A silly question but did you also replace the pads as well.
 
brett said:
It sounds like there not fitted proper i would get this looked at ASAP.
Have you torqued the wheel nuts to 108n.Also iv moved your topic to the correct section Simon.
A silly question but did you also replace the pads as well.
Click to expand...

i did brett yes. do you think its a wheel wobbling then?
 
You should be able to tell if the disc is warped, or alterntively if you have "run-out", by jacking the car up and getting an ***istant to very lightly touch the brake pedal. If there is run-out or if it's warped, you can tell by rotating the wheel.

But are you sure it's coming from the rear ?

Might be the front. A slightly seized caliper on the front can do this. Also the driveshafts (many threads on that)
 
This does seem strange and i still say its a good chance its due to the work already done.
another thing to consider you might of knocked one of you wheel weights off causing the wheels to be unbalanced.
 
I think we need to understand what has happened to really diagnoise the problem. Can you explain what went wrong with the disc install?
 
Shabz said:
I think we need to understand what has happened to really diagnoise the problem. Can you explain what went wrong with the disc install?
Click to expand...


well, we didn't realise that there was an adjuster behind the drum to enable the disc to be easily freed, so, being nowhere near as talented as a monkey with a razor blade, we just kind of forced them off. Yes, massive face palm moment. I think i'm just going to buy 2 new discs and send it to a garage to be repaired unless anyone local in the midlands can help me for a bit of cash?
 
Simon i just hope you haven't damaged your hubs by forcing the disk off or some of the studs.
Have a look at this great DIY by Dan.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6607-tourer-rear-brake-change/
 
brett said:
Simon i just hope you haven't damaged your hubs by forcing the disk off or some of the studs.
Have a look at this great DIY by Dan.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6607-tourer-rear-brake-change/
Click to expand...


would it be worth jacking the car up and wobbling the wheels side to side to see if there is play?
 
ok, just jacked the car up on both sides and there is zero play in any of the wheels. So, my ***umption is a warped disc due to poor fitting by myself and the father in law.
 
Simon Mcroy said:
ok, just jacked the car up on both sides and there is zero play in any of the wheels. So, my ***umption is a warped disc due to poor fitting by myself and the father in law.
Click to expand...
Simon how far did you drive on the new disk as im sure they would only warp if you had rubbing from a seized caliper.
 
Simon Mcroy said:
ive done about 400 miles.
Click to expand...
Simon when you jacked up the car was the wheels spinning freely with a slight resistance against the pads.If so i would say your disks will be fine.
Also look for a blueish colour as this will indicate scorching of the disks.
 
edgeoftime said:
I get the feeling the OP is out of his depth. Tourer rear handbrake adjusts through the drum, not sure what he found!
Click to expand...
As per Dans DIY its quite a simple job and you shouldn't need to adjust the handbrake adjuster.
The only thing you need to do is make sure the handbrake is released 1st before carrying out the works.
 
edgeoftime said:
I get the feeling the OP is out of his depth. Tourer rear handbrake adjusts through the drum, not sure what he found!
Click to expand...


wasn't out of my depth at all really (thanks for the useful reply though). I have done numerous rear brake changes and this was by far the most awkward A: because there were no manuals to help B: i didn't have internet access where i was doing the work C: Didn't feel the need to research as i thought it would be straight forward. I have learned the hard way but i thank brett for his patience in trying to get to the bottom of the problem.

The passenger rear wheel hardly moved with the handbrake off brett. It didn't look to be wearing as evenly as the drivers rear side either. i genuinly feel that i have warped it but with the weather being ***** i can't get out to have a proper look at everything.

Are there any local members who might be able to have a ganders for me, i may have done some serious damage that i might miss on my own inspection.
 
Simon was the passenger wheel like this before you changed the disks and pads.
If so you have a seized caliper.
With the thicker new pads and disks this is why I would say you are now getting the wobble.
Before you change for any new brake componants you need to get the caliper sorted 1st.
If its not the caliper then its the hand brake sticking or not adjusted correctly
 
If your in the midlands and any where near stoke give our affilated Honda dealers a call.
There holdcroft and will give you a very good price to sort this out.
If you want a discount code pm me
 
brett said:
If your in the midlands and any where near stoke give our affilated Honda dealers a call.
There holdcroft and will give you a very good price to sort this out.
If you want a discount code pm me
Click to expand...


brett, many thanks. No it didnt do this prior to the brake change.
 
Simone I think your best bet is start again with all the brake conponanents you have used.
Go by dans DIY and refit.
This will decide if the caliper is at fault.
It might be the case with the thicker pads the caliper is not retracting fully hence sticking.
Also it won't hurt changing the brake fluid.
When was it last changed
Or just bite the bullet and give Hh a call to sort this out
 
Also you said you altered an adjuster what was this.
If you can get some photos up of this it might help.
Iv had a think about this and I'm guessing really without looking at it myself.
I'm thinking maybe you have adjusted the handbrake and the passenger side is on full hence why the wheel won't turn.
This in effect will cause the problem your experiencing.
I will find the DIY hear to adjust your handbrake tomorrow.
I'm sure you need you need to balance up the brake shoes correctly.
A good test would be to slacken off the hand brake on both sides to see if this stops the wobble.hear you go I found it Si

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1041-accord-handbrake-adjustment/
 
I'm guessing that one of the discs is not sitting flat on the hub boss (maybe dirt between boss and disc?). It would be easy to see any runout by spinning the hub and holding a ruler between the disc and caliper (almost touching) and ensuring that the gap remains constant.

I'm sure a member could help you check this... whereabouts are you?
 
Simon Mcroy said:
well, we didn't realise that there was an adjuster behind the drum to enable the disc to be easily freed, so, being nowhere near as talented as a monkey with a razor blade, we just kind of forced them off. Yes, massive face palm moment. I think i'm just going to buy 2 new discs and send it to a garage to be repaired unless anyone local in the midlands can help me for a bit of cash?
Click to expand...

You've damaged the handbrake mechansim, so the discs and/or wheel are no longer flat against the hub.

Look at this exploded view of the handbrake mechansim, click here

The pins (item 18) which hold the shoes flat against the back plate (item 2,3) will be bent because, unless the star adjuster (item 11) is slackened first, the shoes bind against the drum as the disc/drum is pulled off. I know this because I couldn't slacken one of the adjusters once, so I pulled (hammered) the disc/drum off and that's what happened.

You then need to re-***emble the entire handbrake mechanism with a new pin, to make sure that the shoes are flat against the back plate.

As already mentioned, here is the way to change the disc/drum on the Tourer. The star adjuster is in pictures 6,7,8.

It is imperative that the shoes are flat against the back plate and that all the springs and pins are holding the mechanism loosely together, while the disc/drum is put back. If this was not the case, then the disc/drum would not go flat against the lip of the hub. Now you will have run-out, which is not the same as warp.

Run-out means that the plane of the disc is not orthogonal to the axis of rotation. This will mean that the main caliper will grab the disc as is rotates, and/or the wheel will have run-out as well. Either of this will give a feeling of wobble. I have to be honest and say that although the rear disc/drum and handbrake on the Tourer is an absolute pain in the neck, the consequences of a bodged job should be obvious while the bodge is in progress.

In order of preference, I suggest you either take up the offer of Jon_G, or go to HH (Holdcroft Honda) in Stoke, or bring it to me in Loughborough :)
 
freddofrog said:
You've damaged the handbrake mechansim, so the discs and/or wheel are no longer flat against the hub.

Look at this exploded view of the handbrake mechansim, click here

The pins (item 18) which hold the shoes flat against the back plate (item 2,3) will be bent because, unless the star adjuster (item 11) is slackened first, the shoes bind against the drum as the disc/drum is pulled off. I know this because I couldn't slacken one of the adjusters once, so I pulled (hammered) the disc/drum off and that's what happened.

You then need to re-***emble the entire handbrake mechanism with a new pin, to make sure that the shoes are flat against the back plate.

As already mentioned, here is the way to change the disc/drum on the Tourer. The star adjuster is in pictures 6,7,8.

It is imperative that the shoes are flat against the back plate and that all the springs and pins are holding the mechanism loosely together, while the disc/drum is put back. If this was not the case, then the disc/drum would not go flat against the lip of the hub. Now you will have run-out, which is not the same as warp.

Run-out means that the plane of the disc is not orthogonal to the axis of rotation. This will mean that the main caliper will grab the disc as is rotates, and/or the wheel will have run-out as well. Either of this will give a feeling of wobble. I have to be honest and say that although the rear disc/drum and handbrake on the Tourer is an absolute pain in the neck, the consequences of a bodged job should be obvious while the bodge is in progress.

In order of preference, I suggest you either take up the offer of Jon_G, or go to HH (Holdcroft Honda) in Stoke, or bring it to me in Loughborough :)
Click to expand...


you guys are just simply awesome, can't get over how helpful you all are. Really restores my faith in car forums when i come across help like this. Just on a side note, spring number 5 on the ling diagram isn't present in my passenger side hub set up. Is that a problem aswell?
 
^ it shouldn't cause the wobble of itself, but the leading shoe might drag against the drum and wear a bit
 
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