SayamaAccord
And still...
I'd use the Honda stuff - red rubber grease is low temperature so it dries out and bungs up the sliders.
Basic DIY servicing and maintenancefor noobs
- Thread starter exec
- Start date
Andy I hope you don't mind me using your images, if so let me know, I just wanna confirm the direction of loosening and tightening the caliper bolts and disc screws incase I make the same mistake again, is the below correct?
SayamaAccord
And still...
Yep, they are normal righty tight y leftie loos i.e. screws , the tricky bit is setting the impact driver to go the right way.
Yes, no probs Exec do what you need 
The impact driver might be labelled L or R, but even if you are not sure, hold the driver firmly and press it downward onto something hard. You'll see the end turn a fraction as you overcome the spring, its not much maybe about 1/8th and your good to go.
If you use the impact driver on the disc retaining bolts to tighten them up, literally just a little tap is needed. Personally I just hand tighten them until they snug up.
The impact driver might be labelled L or R, but even if you are not sure, hold the driver firmly and press it downward onto something hard. You'll see the end turn a fraction as you overcome the spring, its not much maybe about 1/8th and your good to go.
If you use the impact driver on the disc retaining bolts to tighten them up, literally just a little tap is needed. Personally I just hand tighten them until they snug up.
Clutch Bleed is on the slave cylinder, but only at (one) 1ft-lb. The brake bleeders are 7.2ft-lb.
Its a bit awkward, I was going to bleed mine last year but never have a tool that would fit. I think I've seen some people lifting the radiator out (the fan shrouds get in the way of the spanner) or unbolting the front engine mount (presumably with a jack and block of wood underneath the engine). The valve, engine mount and hydraulic pipe are quite close together as you can see in Pedro's howto.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/252-diy-clutch-master-cylinder-replace-6th-gen/
Its a bit awkward, I was going to bleed mine last year but never have a tool that would fit. I think I've seen some people lifting the radiator out (the fan shrouds get in the way of the spanner) or unbolting the front engine mount (presumably with a jack and block of wood underneath the engine). The valve, engine mount and hydraulic pipe are quite close together as you can see in Pedro's howto.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/252-diy-clutch-master-cylinder-replace-6th-gen/
^ That looks like a PITA, am gonna have a nose around next week see if I can get anything to fit.
Changed the slider pins on the front yesterday and got the rear discs and pads changed. Was very awkward. I manage to get one done yesterday and night fell so was difficult. The piston was a pain to wind back, and no fluid would come out of the bleeder valve, I hope I haven't damaged anything, even though the bleeder itself works.
The pad carriers are annoying in that they were not secured in any way, so slip off when putting the caliper back over them, and the spring on the pads make it difficult to put the bolts back on.
Another thing the rear brakes seem to rust really badly, like everything, I wonder why that is, I had to fight to get the caliper pin bolts of the rubber boot cos they were rusted on. Ended up just putting red rubber grease on them too, as they do work at high temps, ***uming that's what you referred to Cliffordski.
The disc screws came off by hand on one side and had to use the impact drive on the other side, important bit for that was using the right screw head. But I put a lot of wd40 on screws and bolts which helped taking them off.
Bleeded the brakes as well, a lot of air bubbles came out, I just did right to left front, then right to left rear. Noticed some dirt got into the fluid reservoir, should of protected it better! Always I ought 5litre bottle of brake fluid think I would need 3 litres, but barely used it, what a waste!
The new bleeder valve caps I bought worked a treat too, but I forgot to put it on the side I did today, doh!
Next week hopefully change the coolant then am done, oh possibly the clutch fluid if the bleeder is accessible. Otherwise I will be moving onto doing some interior mods and cleaning.
Excuse the poor English, need to sleep.
Changed the slider pins on the front yesterday and got the rear discs and pads changed. Was very awkward. I manage to get one done yesterday and night fell so was difficult. The piston was a pain to wind back, and no fluid would come out of the bleeder valve, I hope I haven't damaged anything, even though the bleeder itself works.
The pad carriers are annoying in that they were not secured in any way, so slip off when putting the caliper back over them, and the spring on the pads make it difficult to put the bolts back on.
Another thing the rear brakes seem to rust really badly, like everything, I wonder why that is, I had to fight to get the caliper pin bolts of the rubber boot cos they were rusted on. Ended up just putting red rubber grease on them too, as they do work at high temps, ***uming that's what you referred to Cliffordski.
The disc screws came off by hand on one side and had to use the impact drive on the other side, important bit for that was using the right screw head. But I put a lot of wd40 on screws and bolts which helped taking them off.
Bleeded the brakes as well, a lot of air bubbles came out, I just did right to left front, then right to left rear. Noticed some dirt got into the fluid reservoir, should of protected it better! Always I ought 5litre bottle of brake fluid think I would need 3 litres, but barely used it, what a waste!
The new bleeder valve caps I bought worked a treat too, but I forgot to put it on the side I did today, doh!
Next week hopefully change the coolant then am done, oh possibly the clutch fluid if the bleeder is accessible. Otherwise I will be moving onto doing some interior mods and cleaning.
Excuse the poor English, need to sleep.
exec if you have had follow the video clip of eric the car guy where he shows very nice and logical all the steps you have be done everything better than the book !
he has this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kf8C4Qxu-A ! B)
he has this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kf8C4Qxu-A ! B)
Good idea, I think I will do a 'brake service' in the summer when the weather is better and days are longer...then check everything and regrease where needed. I rushed this job a fair bit, would of been nice to clean the brake components of dirt and rust too.
Was gonna do the coolant today, but as usual have bad luck, the o-rings have gone walkies, no idea where they are, probably threw them away, so out with the wallet to buy some more
On plus side the rear disc and pad change has made a massive difference, braking is so much better and confident inspiring, am also loving the gearbox now, so smooth after the oil change, highly recommend it for anyone with a notchy gearbox.
On plus side the rear disc and pad change has made a massive difference, braking is so much better and confident inspiring, am also loving the gearbox now, so smooth after the oil change, highly recommend it for anyone with a notchy gearbox.
SayamaAccord
And still...
which gear oil did you use?
Coolant drained and replaced. Didn't flush the system as I have no way of accessing a hose as I live in a flat and to be honest don't feel its necessary as the coolant already in looked very good and was as new, I think the car must have been serviced at Honda not long before I bought it, as all the service parts I have replaced have been genuine stuff and all looked fairly new.
Anyway I used the Lisle Spill free kit, which made the job nice and easy, only issue was that the fan never came on :huh: I think it was too cold so the nothing got hot enough for it to come on! Oh well don't think its a must for that, car running fine, jobs a goodun I hope.
Anyway I used the Lisle Spill free kit, which made the job nice and easy, only issue was that the fan never came on :huh: I think it was too cold so the nothing got hot enough for it to come on! Oh well don't think its a must for that, car running fine, jobs a goodun I hope.
It takes an age for the fans to come on. After you've driven it a few times just check your rad level again (when cold obviously). The first time I done it without the Lisle and without the fans coming on I had to top it up a little.
Cheers for the tip Andy, I'll check the level next time I go to the car. There was quite a lot of coolant left probably between half a litre to a litre. The fan bit was annoying as I had the engine running for nearly 10 minutes, and opened the throttle at 1500rpm then 2500rpm to try and kick the fan in but nothing. Although the car temp got up to normal temps as usual, neither the engine or rad etc became hot to touch, the cold and the wind must have kept the temps at bay as IIRC the fans kick in between 98c and 102c, or thereabouts.
SayamaAccord
And still...
It will only go down the first time you drive the car properly and pockets of air in the system work their way out.
No hopefully the fluid will displace any air pockets that were left so just top it up. No harm in checking again after another drive and cool down . I check the all the fluids often, as it is an old car hoses, pipes or seals could be more prone to failing.
Good point, checked it today and it was all on level so didn't need to top it up, I'm guessing since I left it on for 10 minutes when I did the initial drain and top up, let it warm up, rev etc it must have settled then, either that or it possibly sucked some in from the reservoir.
Bought some of Halfrauds ready mixed pink screenwash, has a nice raspberry smell, so I found myself squirting it for no reason other than to smell the fragrance.
Bought a few other bits and bobs, some hooks and a cargo net to keep from moving around in the boot Bought a bottle of gliptone gt11 leather conditioner, upon using this I think the leather seats the middle seat section is faux leather by the looks of it.
Another annoying thing is the seatbelts, they never retract back properly when you undo them, gets on my nerves! Got some isopropyl alcohol to rub down the sliders, not sure it will do much though. Also got some bumper clips, as the current ones always pop out so must be past their best.
Bought some of Halfrauds ready mixed pink screenwash, has a nice raspberry smell, so I found myself squirting it for no reason other than to smell the fragrance.
Bought a few other bits and bobs, some hooks and a cargo net to keep from moving around in the boot
Bought a bottle of gliptone gt11 leather conditioner, upon using this I think the leather seats the middle seat section is faux leather by the looks of it. Another annoying thing is the seatbelts, they never retract back properly when you undo them, gets on my nerves! Got some isopropyl alcohol to rub down the sliders, not sure it will do much though. Also got some bumper clips, as the current ones always pop out so must be past their best.
My OEM ones are about 6yrs old, the shim has rusted/perished - doesn't look as bad in the pic as in the flesh but it was slightly crumbling lol.
Now I am usually one for doing it by the book, but I just chucked that shim in the bin and yet have had no issues with rattles or squealing thus far. If you have shims I'd use them, but wouldn't panic if not unless unwanted noise was a consequence.
Now I am usually one for doing it by the book, but I just chucked that shim in the bin and yet have had no issues with rattles or squealing thus far. If you have shims I'd use them, but wouldn't panic if not unless unwanted noise was a consequence.
I bought two 1 litre bottles if I remember correctly. The capacity is supposedly 1.8 litres, quite a bit treacled out after filling her up, but I didn't do everything by the book, well it's kinda impossible to do using a set of axle stands as the car sits on an angle of course when you lift it back up to put the bolt on, the actual fill up I put her on the ground and just poured whole of the two bottles in until it started coming out then put the bolt back on when it was dripping slowly.