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No power under 2500 rpm?

A

Abarthje

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Location
holland
Car
Accord Tourer 2005
Hi Accordfriends,

I"m newby Abarthje (posted) and have a problem..

Last saturday i went to Germany and drove for 250 km at hi speed (between 140-160 km/h) and a few hours later the same way 250 km back. The car drove verry wel like it always did.
On sundaymorning i took the car out and ther was no power??(no mil)
When i put the pedal down in second gear it solwly climbs to 2k then it pics up a little speed and at 2.5k the power is back like it used to be (speeds of 160 km/h+ are no problem) (no cops in sight :p )

Af first i thought it is an electrical problem, so i went to my dealer, they put it on the laptop but ther are no failurecode's we took it for a drive and all the reading were within the expected range....

I read the topic's about EGR-valve and the black oily residu. So yesterday i took of the EGR-valve, the butterfyvalve and the complete inlet-manifold :eek:
The EGR was almost clean.
The butterflyvalve was dirty but not extreme.
The inletmanifold was dirty neare the EGR-pipe (bottem enterance) and yust a little bit oily and black at the top entrance.
I cleaned de MAF and the MAP.

I also took the intercooler and it hoses of to check it for leaks (none found)
Yust the pipe between airfilter and turbo inlet was not OK, the rubber gasket at the turbosite was torn, I was happy the i tought that i found the problem (a part of the rubber gasketring could block the turbo inlet) so i orderd a new part (€130,- ex vat).

Tomorrow i picked up the pipe (and a new oil and fuel filter). I put everything on, new oil (5w30 full synthetic wich my honda dealer always uses).
I startet the car and let it idle for 10 mns to warm up, it ran ok, then the mil came ond and went into limp mode :(
i took off the battery for a cup of thea, put the battery back on en drove for 5 km no problems power was OK :D (mil was stil on).
I called my dealer for a reset, started the car to go there and it went back into limp-mode :( , took the batt of again for 10 mns, started the car, limp-mode was gone, but my old problem was back :( :(
My dealer put on a new testcomputer tot erase the code (EGR not correct responding) and tested als the electronic parts seperaty.

Injectors... OK
Idle without corrections.....OK
EGR...OK
Butterfy valve....OK
Fulepressure...OK
Turbopressure.......value out of range???????

My hondadealer told me.... turbopressure at idlespeed is probably to low (out of range).......Turbo is gone (€1996,80 ex vat):eek: :eek: :eek:

I disagree, becouse it ran wel for 5km, so i ordered a new MAP (org bosch partnumber) at my lokal carpartsshop for €37,- ex vat.
I can pick it up tomorrow.
I am sorry for the rather long story, but is ther anyone with a bright idear???

Greetz Patrick
 
It would be useful to know what the ECU code (e.g. something like Pxxxx) was that your dealer says is 'EGR not responding correctly' - do you know the numbers? I think you are right to replace the MAP sensor (or clean it), but it could be a sticky turbo actuator rod (another member had this problem after heat was applied to the exhaust manifold nuts during manifold replacement) caused maybe by hardened grease?
 
Jon_G said:
It would be useful to know what the ECU code (e.g. something like Pxxxx) was that your dealer says is 'EGR not responding correctly' - do you know the numbers? I think you are right to replace the MAP sensor (or clean it), but it could be a sticky turbo actuator rod (another member had this problem after heat was applied to the exhaust manifold nuts during manifold replacement) caused maybe by hardened grease?
Click to expand...
Hey Jon,

I read that topic and checked the rod, visualy and with a vacuumpump.

When you start the engine it lifts a little and than starts to regulate.
Tomorrow after i put the new map on i wil try to adjust it.

greetz Patrick
 
But it might not need adjusting?

Good luck tomorrow and I hope the new MAP repairs your engine problem. Please let us know.
 
Today i put in the new MAP, it is driving better but not jet as it used to be :unsure:

Now i wil try to check the boost-solenoid,
i've read somwere that you kan check it with a multimeter but i can't find the topic anymore.

my value is 13.3 ohm. (i think that is to high???

Does anyone have the right value?

tanks in advance Patrick
 
Boost solenoid/actuator is most likely sticking..
 
F6HAD said:
Boost solenoid/actuator is most likely sticking..
Click to expand...
Fahad, That was the first thing on my mind so today i bought a used boost-solenoid, the last owner broke off the filter and taped some foam on it!!
So i needed a otherone anyway. i checked both little solenoidfilters and cleaned them.

All this made NO differance :(
I checked the vacuupressure , when idling it came op to -900 mbar, when reving it droped a little to -700 mbar and came up again.
When i pressed the footbrake repetedly (fast) it droped to almost 0 mbar.

Like i said before, when i rev the engine the actuaterrod is moving up and downfor about 1 cm, but i don't know if thats enough??
When i test it with a handvacuumpump the rod move's definetly more. (and it wil hold its vacuum).

for the matter of the (old) solenoidvalve it is yust a simple on/off valve, you can test is bij putting 12V to it so you can hear it click, with al vacuumhose you can test if it closes ;)

I'm runnig out of options, i think the next step is taking apart the turbo :huh:
Or is there anyone with more sugestions??
 
Are you still getting an engine management system warning light (MIL)? If so, what is the actual error code (DTC) responsible? That could be useful information.

I wouldn't expect the turbo actuator rod to be moving full range when off-load.

Are you sure the 'new' boost solenoid is OK?
 
Jon_G said:
Are you still getting an engine management system warning light (MIL)? If so, what is the actual error code (DTC) responsible? That could be useful information.

I wouldn't expect the turbo actuator rod to be moving full range when off-load.

Are you sure the 'new' boost solenoid is OK?
Click to expand...

Hey Jon,

My Honda-dealer took the DTC out and the MIL never came up again.
I tested both solenoids with a vacuumpump and a 12V battery.
When you put 12v on it, it wil open en let the vacuum trough to the butterflyvalve (or the vacuumpot on top of the turbo).
When you take the 12V off it closes en lets air in to the system (trough the little airfilter) and the butterfyvalve closes again!

The thing i don 't now is the correct value of the vacuumpump, i can imagene that when the underpressure is to low the valves won't respond quick enough :unsure:
 
Hi Patrick

Your issue sounds very similar to problem I previously experienced (with the exception of warning lights). In case its of any help see my previous issue described here

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/3503-power-losshesitation-and-now-starting-problems/page__p__42844__fromsearch__1#entry42844

For the record the car has perfomed perfectly since the valve changes.

Best of luck resolving. From my experience you've definitely come to the right place for help.

Reamonn
 
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