Recent content by Troy McClure

I wrote about my experience changing a clutch master in the Accord VIII forum. That top left nut can be reached with a long 1/4” socket, a UJ wrapped in tape and an 1/4” extension bar. I then used a length of tube on the ratchet to get enough torque to undo, but have since picked up a 3/8”...

Not sure about lubing the release bearing, but make sure the connector on your new slave cylinder matches your old one; if not you'll have to swap the connector off the old one. Other than that, it's an easy job - Consider getting a friend to hold the connector from above with a spanner while...

Final update - all is back together and working fine. On hold for a while because I tore a muscle/cartilage in my ribs and couldn't face that footwell again until I'd healed. The slave cylinder also fought me all the way - seemed easy at first; minimal fluid loss with the reservoir cap in place...

I can't believe anyone would do a remap of any kind without deleting the DPF. Unplug one of the DPF sensor connectors and go for a drive. If no error codes, it's been remapped. That's how I established that my Mk VIII had been done. Not complaining.

If the overboost is real, there's a grub screw to limit the turbo wastegate. On an i-DTEC it's under the heat shield which means removing the lambda sessor, not sure about the i-CDTi, but it might need adjustment. (If it's a historic code, maybe the previous owner tried to squeeze a bit more...

Good to know, thanks. Not happy about that R clip not being in place so will have to do some dismantling to swap the push rod end anyway. Will be sure to leave the lock nut finger tight though, maybe make a spanner from a bit of steel and a Dremel so I can bend it to reach the nut.

Follow up - after lots of bleeding, the clutch pedal is still too close to the floor and that lock nut and adjustment is impossible to get to. Drivable but I'm having to double declutch to get the lower gears. I'm going to have to undo those damn bolts again to move the clutch pedal bracket out...

5. There's a C shaped steel tubular section that's going to get in the way of everything. It's held by four bolts, two each side and you'll need to disconnect the inertia switch (marked in red). ***CAUTION*** If you try to start the engine with the inertia switch disconnected, the car will...

I started by replying to an old thread where people had given up changing their clutch master cylinder, but thought I might start a new thread for anyone looking to do it. Apologies there aren't more photos - I struggled with this over three days on and off and photos were the last thing on my...

Those are seperate non-return valves. The accord washer jets have an internal polythene flap to prevent the screenwash running back (which can jam up and reduce flow), the aftermarket ones don't. Adding one (or two) of these would work in conjunction if required it's true.

Get shot. They don't need it.

Same happened to the heat shield on my 2009 Tourer. Advice from MOT guy was rip it off and chuck it - the back box doesn't get that warm anyway.

The legal limit for my 2009 Accord was 1.5. After EGR and DPF removal I asked to see the smoke test results at the next MOT and it had sailed through with 0.3. It had done around 200K miles at the time. My wife's Mazda 6 struggled to pass despite being older until I found a sticker by the...

Finally got round to changing the H1 headlight bulbs on my 2013 2.2 i-DTEC. Kept finding posts on forums suggesting you have to take the bumper off to change the bulbs which seemed ridiculous. I'm pleased to report that you don't have to. For the passenger side: No access from inside the...

You know those are aircon service valves, right?