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Mine are still in good nick apart from a few rust spots where the paint peeled off after 150k miles.

Got them for mine as the price was too good to pass, haven't put them on yet. KYB is OEM iirc.

Newark isn't that far from me so if you want to save a few quid just shoot me a message. It's a days job if you've done it once, took me about 16 hours in total first time around going slow and steady with no prior knowledge and only service manual. Really not worth paying £400 in labour...

Guides, chain and tensioner all at once. It's a pig of a job due to access but fairly straightforward, worth noting is the bolt next to the VTC solenoid - very well hidden and coolant line bracket bolt is the same so it's really easy to miss it. VTC solenoid can crack upon removal if it's...

In my case it ended up being the timing chain stretching and slapping against the chain cover/guide. New chain sorted it out.

Friend runs 235/45/8J with +37.5 offset on his CW3 and has about 3mm clearance to the fender lip in the rear. Doesn't rub even with a fully loaded boot but it's very close. 8.5j +35 will most likely require rolling/cutting the lip but should fit fine within the arch.

+20mm up front may or may not rub at stock height, should be fine lowered as the suspension cambers in. I had 225s in this pic but the sidewall ended up surprisingly stretched.

Look up an Acura TSX workshop manual, same car and it's easily accessible in PDF. https://charm.li/

If you don't fancy paying 85 quid for a bunch of wires and two connectors... Yazaki 7282-1968-30 (male) Yazaki 7283-1968-30 (female) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265167564316 effin thieves. There's also manifold gasket only available if you don't fancy spending 200 for the adapter kit...

All credit goes to the original author linked in the OP, I just did the translation ;)

Now the fun part - you have to crawl into the boot head first to access to the mounting points in the back. This is the most difficult part so take it slow and easy. 1. Grab your washer and M8 locking nut and slide them behind the piece of sheet metal above hole marked 1 through the opening 2...

One thing that annoyed me since the day I bought this car was that the boot lid did not open fully after pressing the key on the fob. So naturally I decided to fix it. It's a pretty easy job, you will need about an hour of free time and some basic tools. First of all, massive thanks to the user...

You want the EM2 Civic one, not EM2 Accord. This is JDM style (short body, 75mm bolt pattern) that will not fit without modification and the one I ordered because I did not do my homework... https://japserviceparts.co.uk/product/genuine-honda-civic-em2-clutch-master-cylinder This is the USDM...

Same experience with mine, destroyed two hardened steel picks and it didn't budge. The clip is fused to the body. 1-2 delay is the CMC damper, installing the EM2 master will get rid of that and make shifts butter smooth. I hope you got the USDM style part though? For some reason our Accords...

Just a heads up for anyone searching for this in the future, new camera from a breaker sorted it out.

If the oil pressure light came on and you didn't kill the engine within a few seconds it's toast. Given that you said you drove it home with no oil pressure, that engine is beyond a rebuild. Look into getting a replacement engine swapped in or scrap/part out the car and get another one.

Facelift has xenon units but you'll also need the facelifted bumper and grille iirc.

Only applies to lights emitting a beam IIRC.

P/N 91503-SZ3-003 possibly.

Ripped the boot lit apart, disconnected the camera, checked for any signs of damage to the wiring, nothing... Reconnected the camera and the image was still distorted. Angrily slammed the boot lid and - you guessed it - camera stopped working altogether. FFS.