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Actually, on the facelift Type-S 2.4, the TypeS is 15mm lower than an exec. Pre-facelift it was the same.

I've heard of rack problem, but generally the steering rack is considered ok in the Accords. Like TypeR says, I'd get a suspension check (tie-rods) done along with an ***essment of the play.

Drive-shafts - a known issue on the Diesel. Clunk - front ARBs.

Honda would be obvious, but TBH, I just got a 2nd hand pump complete from the breakers and done a swap (cost 30 quid) I did strip apart the original PSP and getting the bearing out was a bit of a pain. By the time it's all done, the swap was easier.

Apart from the guys' wives, the is a normal for the car. It's can be really noticeable and it seems to be some kind of bearing. However, it's not the belt and generally is not an impending failure. I ignored it and never had a problem.

Errr... I mentioned the wear and tear element. My point is doing so was to demonstrate that either options (N or D) have minimal impact on the wear of components. Some people believe that holding in D will increase wear, while others believe that shifting from D-N-D will increase wear. Neither...

The switch is clicking (as it believes that it's at the top or bottom). This could be a few things, but you'll need to strip the door panel to find out why. Could be the window regulator, I vaguely recall some people needing to replace this... but this is an Internet Diagnostic, which is...

As an aside, leaving the auto in D while stopped with either the foot brake or hand brake applied makes no difference (or very negligible) difference to the box. Why? From the fluid perspective, it looks no different that if the engine is under normal load (i.e. driving). As such leaving it in D...

Easiest was to check is to open the boot fully (i.e. if the boot lid is parallel to the ground), hold it up with your hand, let go an see does it drop a few inches. If it does the struts are bad (common enough given the age)

How old is the battery? If it's going end-of-life you will get anomalies as the voltage drops. Easiest thing to do is replace it if it's old.

Ugh. I'd be looking to swap out the oil for the ATF-Z1 or DW1. It's not that expensive and it's recommended! Of course there are alternatives, but the cost isn't that big between them,

Really, it's a CN1 and 4 speed? I wouldn't mind the D3 on the shift lever, but all the catalogues say it a 5-speed. My own experience with one was a 5-speed.... https://www.flickr.com/photos/63416089@N06/12701707425/in/set-72157641364396795

Is the 2.0 Autobox not a five speed auto? It is in the 2.4 litre

Diesel fuel filter - it's always a good start. Make sure you use genuine.

No problem - yeah the place is full of Hondas. Including 8th Gen 2.4 manuals. The potholes here are legendary, so you need a reliable car :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgFY10NgMtk

I never did get to fit the the rear parking sensors to the tourer, as I sold it shortly afterward on my plan. However, I did locate where to break out the reverse light signal. You need to strip off the rear interior panels on the right side of the car (as you look into the boot of the car). The...

It's not a true flush of the gearbox. The whole box holds about 7 litres and all that you do is replace the fluid in the bottom of the box. .There's lots of fluid still in the torque converter, valves, pipes, etc, that is not changed when a typical drain and re-fill is done (about 3 liters)...

Well, you know yourself what's involved. It's always a bit risky lubricant that could drip onto the friction/pressure plate. TBH, the only way to do this right would be to strip out the clutch - but yes, it's a big job. If you do go for it, get a micro-camera to see where you're at least...

Ah - it looks like a clutch out jobbie. It's probably a few things, yes on the clutch fatigue, but also the input shaft of the gearbox is probably dry of grease also. The release-back pressure comes from the pressure plate, so any stiffness here will result in a slow to rise pedal. The heat...