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There three for the gearbox: 1. Drain plug 2. Check plug 3. Fill plug The drain is on the bottom (as you would expect). The check is at the side in the middle of the box and the fill is on top. Now, some people use the check hole to fill the box. The process here is drain the fluid, and put a...

It's a pain in so far as, splitting the headlights. You need heat and it's difficult to reseal. Honestly you are better off getting a set from a breakers. Also if the l/r nuts have been over tightened then the plastic guide would have been destroyed. If the lights were separated you'd still...

So, for clarity, you have up/down adjustment, but no left/right? The left/right mechanism is even simpler than the up/down one. But it has a limit, if someone has over tightened the nut, then it will spin without any further adjustment. Stripping the headlight won't help much here (and it's a...

Actually, the 2.4 doesn't have an IACV. The DBW on it means that the ECU controls the throttle position for a cold-start. Only the K20 has it. Spent ages look for it on mine once upon a time.. :blush:

I've used both the ratchet and pin axle stands. The ratchets are handier as I can get more accurate heights that with the pin. Never had a problem. If you look at the design of the ratchet, each grove of the ratchet is machined slightly inwards. As such, the stand needs to come-up BEFORE the...

Not sure of the question. But if I read it right, I think the answer is - yes, it's easy to do a service on a petrol. Both the oil and sump nut have the same rules - Righty tightly, lefty loosen. In other words clockwise tightens the bolt/filter, anti-clockwise loosens.

Oh dear, that doesn't bode well for the longer term prospects of the cam. Something isn't right that's for sure, either dirt or something else is causing the wear. I've seen these K20s with over 200K miles without that sort of wear. Problem is that it's probably not use the cam but the valve...

Ocap are fine. I know the concern about engineering, but hey, we all have to live with stereo-types :) (says the Irishman in Jamaica - everyone thinks I'm either drunk or high most of the time :blink: ) Anyhow, as a personal preference I tend to use Meyle for no other reason that it "feels"...

TBH, as I said, you'll need to combine the springs and shocks to make it worthwhile. The yellow shocks certainly stand out.

No correction needed, that's right.

That's them.. http://www.h-r.com/bin/29281.pdf

UCA/LCA balljoint? Was it checked under load?

Sorry guys, late to the thread. In terms of the HDS, it determines the model markets from the VIN number, but still communicates with the ECU to determine exact features. For example, you'll notice on the start page that you have things like and pop-up hood which are no use, but they are still...

It's the struts. They carry the weight of the whole door. As a test, if full opened, does the bootlid drop a bit?

Could be a few things. Stuck caliper? Do all wheel spin freely?

Ball joints? Could it be a referred squeak?

I'll look it up for you in the Honda manual and come back. It definitely can be adjusted.

Takes about 10 seconds of holding for it to start cycling. I can't remember if I powered if off first displaying the temperature rather than the distance.

Nope, you can do this with pre-facelift models as well. I done it with my 2.4 as it was over optimistic by about 2 degrees. To do this hold down the odo reset while turning ignition to (II) and keep holding until the temp goes changes from -3 -> +3. It will cycle through the numbers and when...

TBH the OEM set are pretty good - for £39, I'd just take them.