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If they’ve not done one before, you’re asking for trouble. Drop me a PM.

Can’t help you in Scotland, but if you want a proper quality job then it’s worth making the trip down to Leeds. Drop me a line for further information.

Sounds like an electrical issue to me. If it was fuel or air intake related there would probably be some sort of a symptom like a miss or hesitation, and also likely a diagnostic trouble code. A sudden loss of engine communication and input controls such as throttle would suggest a momentary...

It would look something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/395754366606?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5R9_gnxhQ4m&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=f3nnn2MXTQK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I wouldn’t risk overheating with a knackered radiator. Just swap it out for a new one.

That link is for proposed changes in Northern Ireland. And in reality they’re just proposals.

They’ve been talking about this for nearly 10 years, it’s nothing new really. And yes restoring a dpf is a case of fitting a replacement and having the software flashed back to factory stock, and some adaptations carried out.

I missed the bit about lack of adjuster, in which case agreed you probably have xenons. If it’s a pre facelift exec however I’m pretty sure they all had washers. Easiest way to check, just lift your bonnet and look at the rear of the headlight. If you can see a ballast then it’s xenon.

Only the Pre facelift 2.4 Exec came with factory xenon’s in the 7th gen, and only the Type S 180 has them in the 8th gen. The JDM Euro R also has them. Safe to say yours will be halogen whichever generation it is.

Glad it’s fixed

It’s not very common but it can happen, seen it on various diesel engines. Are the threads in the head strong enough to hold the new bolt in? Sometimes you need to tap a new thread in or oversize drill and helicoil.

You say you replaced the TPS, do you mean the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?

Before throwing all these parts at it, probably wise to let an auto electrician check it over or if you’re fairly competent, run some basic continuity tests. It’s quite possibly a wiring break somewhere. What’s the actual error code?

It’s a shame Honda bodywork is not as strong as its engine and mechanicals.

How kind, a pleasure to meet you and thank you!

Have a search of the forum, it’s a well covered area. Stop using local garages to solve this issue, you’ll keep getting exactly this sort of random advice. Once decided, feel free to drop me a private message if you would like to explore a permanent fix.

Try swapping one of the plugs round to see if the fault follows. Then you’ll know if it’s the plug or wiring.

Try blanking your egr, see what it does.

Hi I think I remember you, I’m glad the fuel pressure problem is solved (although it sounds like you went the long way round lol) If you’re still having an open circuit error after replacing the plugs, then it’s either down to you using a non genuine Honda plug, damaged plug or wiring. Yes the...