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There is actually very little room left in a cylinder at TDC. The piston gets about flush with the top of the block, and the combustion chamber is just the space inside the head and whatever shape the top of the piston is. When I did it I couldn't turn the motor anywhere near TDC as there...

This is good work! I like how you can do all the valves in that cylinder from one bolt down position. How did you get the retainer clips on and off? Is there an access hole out of view?

This is from the ESM. It had 2 models rear brakes, KQ and non KQ. I do not know which one you have so both included. I can't attach the file to this post(too large it says) so I'll have to put it online somewhere.. The PDF's merged a bit out of sequence but each page is its own procedure...

Once I have the lights open, it is of course the ideal time to add some angel eyes to the lights. How do people feel about these things? Has anyone here customised headlights?. I think they look OK, but if one of the LED's fails, you have to pull the lights apart again to fix it. My plan...

Unless something has changed in engine building, thicker headgaskets are usually used in engines that have been rebuilt and have had the head surface machined / skimmed. This is to retain stock compression. Compression would rise otherwise.

If you have any questions, if something is not clear, I will try clarify. But yes, it it totally possible to do this without removing the head. To stop the valves from dropping down when you remove the spring and retainers, you need to rotate the cylinder to low, insert a length of clean rope...

Did you get this sorted? I can check the manual in about 8 hours. My guess is that the procedure would be the same for the same generation Civic and any others that don't have the drum/disk setup.

Are you sure it is the guides and not just the valve stem seals? If not, it might be a hell of a lot cheaper to do that first and potentially save you from removing the head. We had a conversation about changing the seals, without removing the head, in June last year. That was a Dtec, but...

Finally, a bit late in the game, but someone in China is finally producing replacement headlight skins for the EU/AU/JP/TSX body Gen7 Accord. Best price I found was on Aliexpress, starting in the 50-ish range of Pounds and Euro. (Link here) If see them cheaper, they're probably making up the...

Maintenance schedules on EV's are very, very simple. The only problem we have with ours starts with "e" and rhymes with "elephant-tusk".

If the car has done 200 I'd do the lot, because that will cover you for pretty much the rest of the car's life, and the job is a PITA to do twice. Most of us haven't had the cars from new and do not know the history of the car. If one of the previous owners drove aggressively they might have...

Someone else on this forum replaced the chain on his iDTEC CRV but didn't post a report or photos. He had the engine out for another problem and thought "may as well.."

Or you can go the other way and upgrade to an EV.

All you need is for that hole to float in the right position. Surely it cannot be that difficult to manufacture a bracket held in place with a couple of good quality hose clamps? Also, people don't usually do this, but shock absorbers can be reconditioned. A lot of places that advertise...

That is pretty spot on. The extra crease in the top of the front fender, the side mirror, and the way the rear light wraps into the rear quarter are pretty much Subaru. The only Honda bit is the front. So the sum average zeigeist hot stationwagon is the Legacy? Subaru picked the right name in...

It might be worth inspecting the dvd reader lens in case it's just dusty. It's a dual layer reader and something in the light path can interfere with the granularity the data stream beyond whatever error correction is built into the system. Also pull out and reseat any connectors as these cars...

Saw this on FB when some guy asked Chat GPT to generate an example of a hotted up CM wagon in a particular colour. Would have made a good April fools post but it's a bit late for that.

The clutch creak is a result of Honda not building the clutch pedal cage stiff enough across a whole bunch of models. With the brake pedal it is likely to be just the joints wearing and drying out a bit. You should be able to lube each one. If you can't work grease into a tight joint, try PFTE...

I could feel my back complaining just reading your post. Nowadays I build up a pile of towels and pillows so I can lean on the car and engine.

If you have images of the actual parts I am definitely interested in looking at those.