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Correct, thermal gasket only. It did weep coolant at first but admittedly I torqued the manifold by feel - too lazy to drive an hour both ways to borrow a torque wrench off a friend. Round two with a bit more oomph seems to have helped. I'll try and design a bracket for the engine mount...

A little update on the matter: Top left stud *needs* removing, if you grind it down like I did you won't have enough left to put a nut on it with the manifold in place. Lesson #1. Bottom left bolt is an absolute nightmare fuel for access - I had no luck trying to tighten it, socket is no good...

2.4 twin piston fronts should be a bolt on upgrade no? You'll need to get new brackets and larger disks anyway so may as well go with the 320mm option.

Nice, thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to plumb the manifold to the airbox before swapping it out.

Manifold to head, I have the P2R fuel rail spacers already.

Can you reuse the stock bolts holding the injector base in place to secure the manifold or do you need longer ones/studs? I bought the TB adapter and thermal gasket separately as I had all the other bits laying around so that's the only thing I'm missing.

Page 22-339 in the workshop manual has a diagram Passengers side Drivers side

Installed a HID retrofit kit in mine, no issues with the cutoff or beam pattern at all. Housings already have the mounting points for ballasts so it's plug and play with some extra zip ties or velcro needed to tidy up the wiring. Technically illegal but the bulb isn't visible so if the beam...

Mine are still in good nick apart from a few rust spots where the paint peeled off after 150k miles.

Got them for mine as the price was too good to pass, haven't put them on yet. KYB is OEM iirc.

Newark isn't that far from me so if you want to save a few quid just shoot me a message. It's a days job if you've done it once, took me about 16 hours in total first time around going slow and steady with no prior knowledge and only service manual. Really not worth paying £400 in labour...

Guides, chain and tensioner all at once. It's a pig of a job due to access but fairly straightforward, worth noting is the bolt next to the VTC solenoid - very well hidden and coolant line bracket bolt is the same so it's really easy to miss it. VTC solenoid can crack upon removal if it's...

In my case it ended up being the timing chain stretching and slapping against the chain cover/guide. New chain sorted it out.

Friend runs 235/45/8J with +37.5 offset on his CW3 and has about 3mm clearance to the fender lip in the rear. Doesn't rub even with a fully loaded boot but it's very close. 8.5j +35 will most likely require rolling/cutting the lip but should fit fine within the arch.

+20mm up front may or may not rub at stock height, should be fine lowered as the suspension cambers in. I had 225s in this pic but the sidewall ended up surprisingly stretched.

Look up an Acura TSX workshop manual, same car and it's easily accessible in PDF. https://charm.li/

If you don't fancy paying 85 quid for a bunch of wires and two connectors... Yazaki 7282-1968-30 (male) Yazaki 7283-1968-30 (female) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265167564316 effin thieves. There's also manifold gasket only available if you don't fancy spending 200 for the adapter kit...

All credit goes to the original author linked in the OP, I just did the translation ;)

Now the fun part - you have to crawl into the boot head first to access to the mounting points in the back. This is the most difficult part so take it slow and easy. 1. Grab your washer and M8 locking nut and slide them behind the piece of sheet metal above hole marked 1 through the opening 2...

One thing that annoyed me since the day I bought this car was that the boot lid did not open fully after pressing the key on the fob. So naturally I decided to fix it. It's a pretty easy job, you will need about an hour of free time and some basic tools. First of all, massive thanks to the user...