Search results

If you’ve seen your dpf light come on even once, it’s already toast. No amount of cleaning and forced regens will cure it. Drop me a line if you need a solution.

Yes where the loom comes through and becomes stretched and stressed over time. I’ve seen this happen multiple times now on these especially as they get older.

Check for broken wires in the wiring loom where it runs through the hinge area. They’re known for breaking over time.

Thank you very much for the kind review and feedback, always a pleasure to have someone place their trust in our work.. especially when it involves travelling such a long distance. I hope it gives you years of happy motoring.

Normally behind the bumper on the driver side. Remove the bumper and follow the aircon pipework

You can use a feeler gauge to check for gap normally

If it is then I’ve personally never seen it, but I have seen multiple examples of the gearshift indicators not working due to bad software.

Stick to 0w30 fully synthetic oil. I’ve tuned plenty of high mileage examples with great results, it’s really down to how good an example the car is, mileage is sort of irrelevant.

Yes they’re great cars, and given decent maintenance will last you several hundred thousand miles of reliable motoring. Also have great tuning potential.

Well if after replacing the clutch the pipe still isn’t getting cold I suspect you have the same faulty plastic one way valve. If you’re not evacuating the gas to do the clutch then see how you get on. But if the gas is coming out anyway, then I would locate remove that valve before refilling...

Check your heater control valve in the engine bay to ensure it’s not stuck. Also check the climate control blend flap actuators, again if they’re broken then it won’t be switching hot and cold. We had the same issue recently on my dads IDTEC CRV and after changing compressor twice, condenser...

Hi Peter, the fact your gearshift indicators stop working (and I suspect also your cruise control) point to either a software checksum problem or indeed a mechanical problem where the software has been butchered to incorrectly mask an error. I can help if you drop me a line, it will involve...

Readily available on Ali express

You do realise this post is 15 years old right?

Yes, drop me a line. I can solve it. And stop throwing chemicals and running constant regens you will end up with a blocked turbo, if it’s not already done in fact.

Difficult to help like this, especially when you say there are no error codes. It’s possible someone has modified the software and deleted the dtc table, otherwise such a total loss of power would trigger at least one dtc. Have someone check your software first and then go from there with basic...

Depending on how badly damaged it is, take it to a radiator specialist and let them repair it. They can probably fabricate some new hangers too if they’re broken.

When you say it loses power do you mean it loses electrical power or engine power? Where are you located?

Yes from a tuning, economy and overall package perspective really. They’re highly capable, dependable and easy to live with. If clean air zone is not an issue, for your needs as a load lugger I would suggest going for a diesel. They come in both manual and auto (Type S is manual only).

R20 is ok but nothing special really. If you can find a K24 they’re decent, and I’ve tuned a fair few with good results. Best of the bunch as an all rounder is the IDTEC really but if you’re in the ULEZ then sadly not a viable option.