What's new

2.2 i-ctdi checking blow-by by opening oil filler cap

n1ks0n

Members
Messages
79
Reaction score
8
Location
Bulgaria
Car
Accord 2.2 i-CDTI
Recently I'm getting a fair amount of oil in my intake, a cloud of white smoke only when starting and consumption of half a liter per 1500 miles. I was sure that the oil was coming from the turbo, but I can't find any shaft play on it. I'm thinking of buying new turbo, but I want to make sure that this oil in the intake is not due to engine wear (engine has over 210k miles, but is very very good serviced the last 100k miles since I have the car). Please, take a look at the video and tell me if this is normal. When I pull the cap one can hear the strong air and mist coming out. Oil is also splashing out. For me it seems excessive what do you think?
https://youtu.be/-VdiYF_ldbk
 
Hmmm.. are you sure you haven't blown a head gasket? What does your coolant look like?
 
The coolant is fine. I have recently changed a leaky coolant radiator and drained all of the coolant. The colour and smell was perfectly fine. No bubbling too. Can somebody confirm that it is not normal for this engine to pump so much air out of the filler cap. I don't want to spend money on a turbo if the engine is shot. I'm really sad that the life of my ctdi is over after all the care it has received.
 
No, it does not have any particular smell like exhaust or raw diesel. I'm ***uming it is some kind of oil mist. It is more when I first open the cap and then it clears. I can not keep it open for a long time, because I get sprayed with oil. I'm concerned with the amount of air escaping and you can see that the cap dances a bit when left loose over the hole. The breather is clean and unobstructed for sure.
 
Yes, I'm planning on doing one, but the question was if somebody has ever had their cap opened while the engine is running and how much blow-by did they see. I know that every engine is different and I don't know if this is normal for the i-ctdi.
 
Yes, I'm planning on doing one, but the question was if somebody has ever had their cap opened while the engine is running and how much blow-by did they see. I know that every engine is different and I don't know if this is normal for the i-ctdi.
 
I would try doing this first :-

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/18147-inlet-manifold-de-coke-2-cars-done/

the amount of crud in the intake manifold is a sight to see.

The crankcase vent extraction rate is linked to the speed of the turbo, if it is not getting passed back to the intake manifold at the correct rate (due to perhaps a blockage as in the link above), you may experience back pressure which many mechanics misdiagnose as faulty/ and or failing turbos.
You have nothing to loose by checking the inlet manifold for crud, and plenty to gain if it needs cleaning out.
You will only see if it needs doing by inspecting it which costs nothing DIY.
There's a very good chance it will and the engine will thank you for it.

TJ.
 
Just un update. Did a turbo swap with no difference. The car is more and more difficult to start and is now idling on 3 cyllinders hot and cold. Increasing the rpm seems to start the ill cyllinder. Oil consumption is 500ml per 600 miles. So, my 2.2 i-ctdi engine is done at nearly 220k miles. I'm very busy and I don't know if I will find time to strip the engine to see what exactly has failed just from curiosity. It could be broken piston ring or piston ring land with or without cyllinder wall damage. One thing is for sure: It is just one cyllinder, because the car runs reasonably/not perfect/ and does not consume that much oil.
 
Tanna said:
Get a diagnostic check done could be a faulty injector causing the issue.
I have thought about this, but the car is burning oil, there is blowby and oil in the intake. The problem is obvious. I have done a leak back test and for a 1 min idling got 1 cyl: 7.5 ml, 2nd: 5 ml, 3rd: 5ml, 4th: 11ml. These figures look fine. I have changed the pressure relief valve too. The starting and idling is the same.
 
Have you cleaned out the air mass sensors and egr? Mine was running lumpy, turb wasn't spooling up until 2500rpm... once the t air flow sensors and egr were cleaned it transformed the car... It's 30-60 mins work and a couple of spray cans of cleaner that will do the job many times... about £16 and an hour of your time... Run the car around for 20-30 miles so it can relearn.

Can't hurt to try.
 
Posted 29 July 2018 - 10:48 PM

I would try doing this first :-



http://typeaccord.co...ke-2-cars-done/



the amount of crud in the intake manifold is a sight to see.



The crankcase vent extraction rate is linked to the speed of the turbo, if it is not getting passed back to the intake manifold at the correct rate (due to perhaps a blockage as in the link above), you may experience back pressure which many mechanics misdiagnose as faulty/ and or failing turbos.

You have nothing to loose by checking the inlet manifold for crud, and plenty to gain if it needs cleaning out.

You will only see if it needs doing by inspecting it which costs nothing DIY.

There's a very good chance it will and the engine will thank you for it.



TJ.
 
I have new maf and cleaned egr. Trolleyjack, I will definitely start with the intake manifold to see what is in there. But if it is clean I will proceed to strip the engine in order to lift it. I'm planning to have a look at the cyllinders. Even if it is a faulty injector, it has definitely washed a cyllinder, because I experience blowby and oil burning.
 
My diesel tourer 04 mk7 has 179k mls on and blue smokes only on first start,uses about 250ml oil every 1500 mls, I suspect valvestem seals.

I have however started using this :-

Wynns Exhaust STOP SMOKE Engine Oil Treatment Additive,

along with 0w30 oil, and the rate of oil consumption has decreased.These engines are (by design) supposed to burn off crankcase vapours, that is why the inlet manifold, air filter, Maf, intercooler, and resonator chamber get oily over time.

The build up of soot and sludge in the inlet manifold EGR etc would indicate car has not been run for sustained longer periods (motorway) but for shorter runs when engine may not get particularly hot.

To be honest I don't even think Honda would have anticipated these early models of their first diesel engine to be still running today,but not knowing the design life expectations of these cars, (and the throw away, and by new, nature of modern day thinking ) I suspect both mine and yours are past their design use by date now, and are only kept running by the persistence of diyers.

T.J.
 
20200903_234105.jpg
I'm posting the final conclusion: bad scoring on the wall of the cylinder #4. The cylinder started missing when idling. I won't even bother to examine the piston and rings. I'm going to scrap the whole engine and the car.
 
Sorry to hear about your accord :(

I can confirm with your original youtube video
that my Accord does exactly the same.

My Accord is running smooth and well so I asume it is pretty normal for the icdti to act like that.
My mileage is 223k
 
It was probably a bad injector, spraying irregular fuel, because I had a long cranking issue as well. The injectors themselves are not a problem. The problem is the timing chain that wears premature and needs replacing, but the injectors won't come off easy and sometimes get broken. Then you need to recondition them and you know that reconditioning is not like a brand new item. It was nice to be part of your community. I have now decided to try Toyota and have bought a hillux. Who knows I might be coming back some day :).
 
Top