Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

'55 plate i-CDTI

M

Maxim

Members
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Sevenoaks
Car
2.2 ICTDI
Hi All,
I've had some hot starting problems from my i-CDTI for some time now. I had a thread running on here previously, from which I gained enough information to get hold of crank and camshaft sensors.
The problem was bearable, and intermittent, so the sensors sat in the glovebox, until recently, when the car car started having serious trouble starting even when cold (enough to start worrying about wearing out the battery or starter).
Because of serious time issues at the moment, I passed to a friend with a successful little garage.
He dismissed sensors as no fault codes were showing.
He then asked me to get hold of a EGR valve as mine was seized, but this made no odds.
He now believes that the injectors are at fault, but is reluctant to remove them, as apparently there is a history of the retaining bolts snapping off in the head, and causing all sorts of problems, almost rendering the car beyond economic repair!!
The suggestion is to try and sell it with a starting problem, but I really like driving this car!!

Is this story about the injector retaining bolts true?
I would much rather keep this car if I can.

Thanks All
 
I've seen your other posts on this problem. I think the suggestion not to change sensors is sound advice, at this stage. The problem might well be the injectors, but certain tests can be conducted without removing them (which can be a really tough job, but plenty of mechanics manage OK)... often the failure with these injectors is with excessive leak back, where the lubrication path through the injector (and which then returns to the fuel tank) becomes too much and so prevents the fuel rail sufficiently pressurising during cranking (has to achieve 200 bar minimum before ECU will enable the injectors to inject fuel into the engine). There is a 'leak back' test, where the 4 injector individual returns to the tank are routed to 4 separate containers and the engine cranked/started and the build up in the containers monitored... the injector(s) giving excess flow will then be obvious and should then be replaced. Also include the fuel rail over-pressure relief valve (on the drivers side end of the fuel rail) when doing this test, as these can also leak excessive fuel back to the tank as well, and cause the exact same problem. This is definitely the course of action I'd take first, mostly because it's fairly simple and doesn't cost anything!
 
Thanks for your response Jon.
I really would like to save this car. apart from anything, I'm way out of pocket on it. even my kids are gutted at the thought of changing it.

I think the 'leak test' has been done (I don't think the pic below has worked), but results are unclear, so I'll talk to the guy who has it tomorrow.

I'll try and keep this up to date, as I would hope that it will prove useful if I ever get it fixed.

Sadly, it may end up on Ebay as a non-runner ..... really not what I want.

HondaInjectors.jpg
[/URL][/img]


Cheers

Mick
 
+1 on Jon_G's comments, and also from experience of having the same issue which turned out to be a duff injector..
 
Was the rail pressure relief valve included in the leak back testing? It's definitely worth doing this.

Check what rail pressure is being achieved during cranking, and how quickly it gets up to 200 Bar. A lot of OBD2 readers will do this for you.
 
Finally - I have a bit of time to go visit my car tomorrow.
It sounds like one of the injectors is faulty and leaking back.
The garage where it is won't touch it through fear of snapping off a retaining bolt, and the same answer at the other 2 garages that I use.

Is there anybody on the site who is experienced at getting these out without wrecking the head?
I'm using a diesel Peugeot 406 at the moment, and it reminds me just how awful some cars can be ... gutless, wafty, sloppy, and absolutely no 'feel' what so ever! ... I really would like my Honda back.

Cheers
 
Must be the position of the bolt, or an odd size or thread or something , rather than the actual snapping they are worried about . Snapping bolts is a normal everyday part of the job ..Snap em , remove em , stick in a new one, neit problemo . But when they are in a swine of a place or a weird size or pitch , that's when it's a ballache .
 
I've not heard of a problem with snapping off bolts when removing the injectors, the problem is usually with removing the injector from the head once the bolts are removed. There are specialist mobile injector removal specialists that probably operate in your area who could be called in if/when an injector is found to be actually stuck. As said above, the risk of snapping off a seized bolt is really part of the job when you run a garage... poor form really to complain about this!
 
The issue with this engine is really around the fact that it's an alloy block and as it's a soft metal, it's a more delicate operation to remove a stuck injector.

I agree with Jon though, it's poor form for a diesel specialist to be nervous about doing a routine job like this..
 
Here is one being delicated out the head .

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srhckFeqWBs[/media]
 
more like because they dont have all these problems to deal with.

mind you not just Honda, im sure BMW diesels are worse when they go wrong.
 
Thanks All,
I have a number now for a mobile injector removal guy!
I'll give him a try!

Cheers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top