Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

6th Gen Alarm not deployiong

R

robbo4620039

Members
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
Worcestershire
Car
Honda Accord 6th Gen
Hi can anyone please help me to diagnose my car alarm not working?It has a key only entry system the immobilizer is working and all locks deploy but no hazard flash when locking/unlocking.All door switches operate interior lights so I ***ume they are functioning correctly I am stuck!
 
robbo4620039 said:
Hi can anyone please help me to diagnose my car alarm not working?It has a key only entry system the immobilizer is working and all locks deploy but no hazard flash when locking/unlocking.All door switches operate interior lights so I ***ume they are functioning correctly I am stuck!
Click to expand...

Could you clarify on what you mean by "key only" entry system please? I might just be having a brain fart, but I can't seem to comprehend what you mean by that.

As for your issue, it's not something I've come across after working on 6th gens over the years. However, it might be worth looking at the bonnet catch as they can be a bit troublesome. You should see a yellow cable going into the back of it towards the radiator and central core support. Either way, the car is detecting that there is not a "full closure", hence the lack of hazzard flash when activating the alarm, so check and double check all doors and boot/bonnet.

Also, just to check...Are your deadlocks working? To check this, open a window then press the lock key twice, slowly. You should hear a clunk on the first press, then a louder clunk on the second as the deadlocks engage. Once they are engaged, simply put your hand inside and try to lift up the lock, it should be loose and the door should stay locked.
 
Hi Frenchy thanks for your reply.I should have said the car is key only entry there is no remote key fob arrangement.I have checked all doors boot lid and bonnet catch as far as I can without stripping stuff out and cant see anything obvious.Regarding the dead lock check you told me about it seems deadlocks are not deploying as I can open the rear door when the window is slightly open and the car is locked.
 
Hi Neil....

The manual mentions some cars with and some without the Security Alarm System....So simple question first, was it working before? :unsure:

If you are sure the doors, boot, bonnet and ignition switches are sound then there is a security relay under/behind or to the side the passenger glovebox. I'd need to go and look for it myself as I'm not sure exactly where it is.

"For the system to arm, the ignition switch must be off and the key removed. Then, the keyless/security control unit must receive signals that the doors, hood, and trunk lid are closed and locked. When everything is closed and locked, none of the control unit inputs are grounded. The door switches, hood switch, trunk lid switch, door lock knob switches, and door lock cylinder switches are all open. Fifteen seconds after the doors are locked with the key or the lock knob, or immediately after locking the doors with the remote transmitter, the system arms. If anything is opened or improperly unlocked after the system is armed, the control unit gets a ground signal from that switch, and the system is set off.If one of the switches is misadjusted or there is a short in the system, the system will not arm. As long as the control unit continues to get a ground signal, it thinks the vehicle is not closed and locked and will not arm."


Andy
 
AndyB1976 said:
Hi Neil....

The manual mentions some cars with and some without the Security Alarm System....So simple question first, was it working before? :unsure:

If you are sure the doors, boot, bonnet and ignition switches are sound then there is a security relay under/behind or to the side the passenger glovebox. I'd need to go and look for it myself as I'm not sure exactly where it is.

"For the system to arm, the ignition switch must be off and the key removed. Then, the keyless/security control unit must receive signals that the doors, hood, and trunk lid are closed and locked. When everything is closed and locked, none of the control unit inputs are grounded. The door switches, hood switch, trunk lid switch, door lock knob switches, and door lock cylinder switches are all open. Fifteen seconds after the doors are locked with the key or the lock knob, or immediately after locking the doors with the remote transmitter, the system arms. If anything is opened or improperly unlocked after the system is armed, the control unit gets a ground signal from that switch, and the system is set off.If one of the switches is misadjusted or there is a short in the system, the system will not arm. As long as the control unit continues to get a ground signal, it thinks the vehicle is not closed and locked and will not arm."


Andy
Click to expand...
 
Hi Andy

The alarm was working previously I have checked all door switches they are working.But I dont know where the bonnet and boot sensors are located .Ive visually checked the wiring to boot lock seems in place.The bonnet lock wiring is in accessible unless I remove it.I have also confirmed the dead locks are not deploying.Knowing where the bonnet and boot sensors are would help so if anyone knows please HELP!
 
Have carried out the Honda check list see link http://www.hondia.org/contho-613.html and I have a problem with the boot lid lock not being recognized.
 
I've just done a check on my switch with a multimeter, checking for continuity. I guess if you can do this check it might eliminate the actual lock mechanism itself meaning the problem might be further up the wire. I'll pop up the images in a sec.

Also I read to check two fuses, I can't see it being them due to the fact it seems localised to the boot lock but might be worth a look.

Fuse 9 Driverside



Fuse 13 Passenger side

 
Ok this is how to check the latch switch. Again this might be a futile test like the fuses as there is no open boot display on the dash....


Remove any boot liner then identify the wire running from the latch, simply press the tab and disconnect the plug...
1connectorlocation_tn1_zps6b0343f9.jpg


With the latch still in the Open position......

LOCKOPEN_tn1_zps5f5b7122.jpg



..we want to check for continuity at pins 3 and 4. Touch both pins and listen for the BEEP (excuse the clip art :lol: )

24pinplugOPEN_tn1_zpsb5fcf357.jpg



Now close the lock, I just used a screwdriver and pressed the mechanism upward or inward

LOCKCLOSED_tn1_zps0228345a.jpg



Then recheck continuity on pins 3 & 4. There should be NO BEEP, no continuity with the lock closed.

24pinplugCLOSED_tn1_zps81eade9f.jpg


That should at least eliminate that part of the circuit....oh and remember to pull the latch or turn the key in the lock cylinder to return the latch to open before you slam it down lol....
 
Hello Andy

Thanks for the time & trouble you went to in your reply.I will first need to get a new battery just had Kwikfit do the free battery & alternator check the alternator is good but the battery is cream crackerd 36%starting capacity.Needless to say I didnt buy there offering of 60AH replacement at £126.75.Im now searching for a more sensible price replacement.Also will need to buy a Multimeter and learn how to use it before I can do the check on the wiring to the latch.I will post the out come.
 
Call Holdcroft Honda,the forum sponsor. Tell them your a member of Type Accord (PM admin or mod for forum sponsor code first) and they'll deliver you a Honda battery for probably* less than £70.

I use a relatively cheap meter, don't know how good or accurate it is so I'm not specifically recommending it but its a UNI T 50c from Maplin for £30. TBH, a multimeter is such a useful tool to have if you own a car and don't mind tinkering about.

Continuity to check switches and fuses, current draw, voltage and voltage drop testing really make them an essential, particularly with an older car and the higher likelihood of electrical gremlins.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/ut50c-digital-multimeter-with-temperature-and-frequency-46392


*I don't expect it to be any more expensive, but don't quote me on that! :lol:
 
Yeah....seems to do the same things although the 50C does upto 20A and not 10A and it also reads temperature, it comes with a probe for that. Can be useful to stick the probe in an air vent with the air con on and see how its performing. Usually 5°C is a well operating measurement.

I just wish it have a better set of leads and some croc clips to clip into terminals but you can buy them I suppose.


TBH the switches on Precision Gold PG017 Digital Multimeter looks a bit cheap n nasty, I don't think its RRP price looks justifiable based on that. The 50C feels not too cheap in the hand, the red outer is slightly rubberised and is shaped so sits in the hand quite well.
 
Found this on Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-VC97-3999-Auto-range-multimeter-tester-vs-FLUKE-15B-shipping-from-UK-warran-/180761137994?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item2a1634134a £26 20A capacity.What do you think ?
 
Yeah that looks quite a decent meter....I'd probably go for that over my current one if I was buying again but must say I am no multimeter expert. I was pretty much in a similar situation to you when I needed one and just decided the UNI T seemed the one for me at the time.

Lets us know your opinions if you go for it, at least you get a bag and croc clips :lol:
 
Well new battery just arrived Exide EB602 60AH £35 + £8 courier delivery,Ebay seller, cheaper than I paid for last new battery 4 years ago from local supplier.I ordered the VC97 multimeter and now waiting for delivery.I will use the waiting time to learn how to safely use it.Seen youtube vids which are helpful and explain the dangers of improper use.Bit worried about making silly mistake with it and causing more problems.
 
I'm starting to look into the electrical side a bit more now too. The mechanical its pretty straightforward because its kind of big and in your face.

I've been reading through this book, seems alright I suppose, somewhere to start for a beginner.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Diagnose-Automotive-Electrical-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760320993/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382615861&sr=8-1

Gonna order some back probe pins from Ebay unless I get some joy with paperclips (hmmm) but don't want to be shorting anything out. Maybe one day I'll splash some cash on a powerprobe3 or Sealey pp100.
 
Thats something I will need when the multimeter arrives I can read the instructions as I do the tests and at my own pace.Dont fancy taking a laptop outside to follow a "How to video" on youtube. I wonder if once the circuit fault is located with the multimeter the book explains how to repair it? Maybe straightforward on a failed component but bad connections or broken wires must be a nightmare.Since looking for repair guides on the web I dont see many UK people if any making helpful repair videos they are all from the US.Unless I am looking in the wrong places.
 
That book won't tell you how to repair your fault, its more a generic overview of basic electrical troubleshooting. Even if you get a copy of the Accord service manual with troubleshooting guides and wiring diagrams you'll still need to have a good understanding of electrics to make sense of them.


RealFastFixes on Youtube recently put up some episodes on electrical troubleshooting..Should be worth a look.

 
RealFast Fixes tutorial looks very professional.I will study more and hopefully learn How to diagnose my Accords problem.I am still waiting for the multimeter to arrive and have been trying to fathom why the drivers door window only moves up or down in increments.Ive removed the door panel and lubed all the channels with silicone its smoother now but wont travel all the way up or down on one push.So am thinking Ive got bad door window motor or multiplex problem ***ociated with my alarm problem.I read if there are issues with the door actuator wiring that can cause other problems.
 
You might need to ultimately to it to Honda or someone recommended.

A few electrical problems alarm, boot latch/lock, window might be beyond and the low battery at the start. Seems like they could all be related to a novice like me but then again could be all individual issues or some related. Has the car been in a shunt recently, maybe some part of the loom has been damaged?

ScannerDanner has some interesting videos if you like the diagnosis side of components using scopes
http://www.youtube.com/user/ScannerDanner/videos

Daniel Sullivan also has some good beginners electrical stuff
http://www.youtube.com/user/bivideo7
 
AndyB1976 said:
You might need to ultimately to it to Honda or someone recommended.

A few electrical problems alarm, boot latch/lock, window might be beyond and the low battery at the start. Seems like they could all be related to a novice like me but then again could be all individual issues or some related. Has the car been in a shunt recently, maybe some part of the loom has been damaged?

ScannerDanner has some interesting videos if you like the diagnosis side of components using scopes
http://www.youtube.com/user/ScannerDanner/videos

Daniel Sullivan also has some good beginners electrical stuff
http://www.youtube.com/user/bivideo7
Click to expand...
 
Hi Andy both off side doors were replaced after a hit & run driver reversed into the car when parked.The boot lid was changed at the same time I had the body shop fit replacement doors I bought all from a breaker.After the body shop had completed the job the alarm & boot lamp did not work.I think they may have used the latch from the donor boot lid rather than R&R the original latch.The window problem has been present, I think but not sure, before the damage done to doors.Anyway as you say I might have to go to the dealer if I cant diagnose the problem with the multimeter which has just arrived.Im reading up on how to use it before i cause more problems lol.Was thinking of getting this ww.emanualonline.com/Accord-Sale‎ £9.99 but pretty sure its for US vehicles.I have looked at the Honda Maris service web site http://www.techinfo.honda-eu.com/uk/en/welcome.html 10 euros for an hour
 
Did the test on boot latch then removed the connector block from the boot lid reconnected and now the dash warning light shows boot open when closed??
 
robbo4620039 said:
Did the test on boot latch then removed the connector block from the boot lid reconnected and now the dash warning light shows boot open when closed??
Click to expand...

Hi

Ok, sounds like it might be the switch inside the latch. As I understand it, from reading back through the thread....

"Have carried out the Honda check list see link http://www.hondia.org/contho-613.html and I have a problem with the boot lid lock not being recognized. "

"Is the dash display showing the boot as open? "

"No the dash light does not recognize the boot lid is open"
Click to expand...

...there wasn't any indication of the latch being open, and now there is although showing open when infact closed. What happens when you open the boot does the light remain on or does it then go off? What did the meter test tell you? Can you recheck it again to see if the continuity results are now the reverse of what they were earlier?
 
Hi Andy I tested the lock as you described and got confused,lol.Power shows on the meter on incoming side of the loom connector.But could not access the female side. So removed the boot lid connector block to try to get access to the pins inside.Got no readings when I tested them latch open or closed as you demonstrate in the pics., then reconnected the connector and the boot open light came on.I think the body shop did not push the connector together properly or maybe they found the light on and decide to pull the connector slightly apart to make the light go off cause they could not fix it.The latch plastic link which is operated by the interior cable is very slack lots of travel,maybe 1/2 an inch.I have bought a used latch on ebay yesterday hope to receive Thursday.I will do the tests again as you suggest.I need to double check again to answer your other questions about continuity & opening the boot and checking dash light.
 
Have checked dash boot open warning light it remains on where closed or open.I did the continuity test and got bleep when the latch is open and closed.So am I right in thinking the latch is the culprit?
 
Yeah it sounds like it....When the lock opens it presumably closes the switch hence the continuity bleep and grounds the circuit. The alarm looks for ungrounded circuits (or maybe its better to say grounded circuits won't allow it to arm) before it arms itself if my understanding is correct.

You should be able to take apart the latch. It think its just couple of bolts and you pull the connectors off, I think latch casing (the black outer)should just pull apart then you should be able to the see the inner workings - and with the latch in the open position it probably presses against two thin pieces of metal acting as a basic switch. I had an issue on a Passat, the wee return spring had popped off so I just worked through it without any guide and it was quite a simple process, the Honda lock looks kind of similar on the face of it.

Otherwise wait until you get the replacement and try the continuity check before it goes on the car, if it works then you can poke about as much as you wish with your older one when its off ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top