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A suspected tale of doom!

zpaulg

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Location
Manchester
Car
Honda Acoord 2.2ctdi
Gents,

Let me say up front that I have already cracked open a tinny. I have had a 2004 Accord 2.2 diesel for the last seven years or so. Mileage around 105,000 serviced every year etc, well looked after.

Three weeks ago I had a new front exhaust manifold fitted as the original had cracked, common known fault etc,etc. Ten days or so later the car broke down on me while driving on the motorway, running sweet one minute then oil warning light flicked on.

Could not stop immediately as no access to hard shoulder so had to keep driving. Next the engine warning light kicked in and the car went into limp mode. Finally managed to gain access to hard shoulder and I turned off the engine. Prior to this no rough running or symptoms of any kind, just the warning lights and then limp mode.

I wont dwell on the 10 hour recovery process, suffice to say I was not a happy bunny!

Since had a mechanic look at the car. Fault codes were cam shaft sensor, low pressure rail one and a third I can`t remember. Looks like the camshaft is not turning hence the word doom in the ***le. Mechanic tells me he can tell the car`s been well maintained and is at a loss to explain the sudden failure. He suspects the timing chain may have jumped a tooth or two as engine will not start and sound like it`s missing.

Now this post is for my own peace or loss of mind only. I`m not going gunning for culprits etc `but` could the work on the manifold have contributed in some way to the failure? Struck me as odd that when I picked the car up they said " It all went back together no problems at all".

Either way I can`t prove anything but I have to wonder.

Awaiting a price on putting things right and I know it wont be cheap but the car`s bought and paid for and I do love it.

Might be a rebuild or maybe a reconditioned engine if I can find one.

On that note anyone any contacts or suggestions? Ironically I`m told these engines are bullet proof and hence difficult to source used. I`m in the Manchester area by the way.

Thanks ( if you read this far!)

Paulg.
 
Oil pump drive chain's snapped, and given the timing chain grief too.

The motor will be goosed if it's done any more than a mile or two with no oil pressure.

Nothing to do with the manifold swap, these things just happen.
 
Thanks m8, so you reckon it's a writeoff? Don't want to throw good money after bad.
 
Mine did the same.

I fitted a low mileage motor to it with fresh timing and pump chains 12k ago, and continue to punt out 2.5k miles a month in mine.

Cost me £850 in motor / turbo / service parts, as I did all the work myself.

Only you know if it's worth it to you. I'd imagine that with a dead motor, the car can't be worth much more than £500. I'd imagine a supplied and fitted motor must be £1200 or so.
 
I paid only £700 for a low mileage motor with a brand new DMF and LUK clutch, and a good turbo.

£1200's way too much.
 
E-mail Kris.

hswonline78@gmail.com

Great guy to deal with.

My motor's from a civic, so it has the later, more reliable hydraulic chain tensioners.
Everything will swap over from the accord motor as the block, sump, head, clutch, diesel pump, and fuel rail, are identical.

Exhaust manifolds are the same, but if you swap turbos, you need to use the accord housings as the outlets are different.
Also need to use the accord thermostat housing, as the civic doesn't have the temp sender in it.
Of course, you need to swap over all the cooling pipes (civic has a blanking plug bolted in the block) and the engine mounts.

I also used my accord injectors in their original locations to saving having the civic ones coded to the ECU.

It sounds scary, but it's quite easy.

If you're doing the work yourself, get a balance bar to go with your engine hoist, it makes install and removal nice and easy. (And the engine/box ***embly will come out the top with the radiator removed. Get the motor high, and the 'box low - hence the balance bar)

Also a good time to go to the revised accessory belt routing too. You'll want a Gates 7PK1785 belt.

All the loom plugs will only go where they belong, but it always pays dividends to take pictures of the cable and hose routing.
 
If your car is a 2004 then you have the n22a1 engine.

The civic and facelift Accord came with the n22a2 engine.

Matt has given a great description of the differences between them.
 
The civic and facelift Accord came with the n22a2 engine.
Hi Fahad

I have a 2006 facelift accord but my vin plate says i have a N22A1 engine.
Definitely a facelift engine as my EGR and fuel filter is the facelift type.
Is that still correct? Or when you mean facelift you mean the 8th gen Accord?
 
Hi Alex - i've never looked at the VIN plate, but my understanding is based on the engine layout (the facelift Accord and Civic/CR-V/FR-V) share the same layout with revised EGR and inlet manifold, and they are all N22A2 i believe.

The IDTEC is actually the N22B range.
 
Hi Alex - i've never looked at the VIN plate, but my understanding is based on the engine layout (the facelift Accord and Civic/CR-V/FR-V) share the same layout with revised EGR and inlet manifold, and they are all N22A2 i believe.

The IDTEC is actually the N22B range.
Thanks Fahad.
That is strange. Just checked my vin plate and it does say N22A1 but my accord is a 2006 model and definitely the revised i-ctdi layout.

 
Well I could be wrong Alex, it does happen from time to time
 
Haha, no worries fahad.
It could be that the 7th gen accord kept the n22a1 engine all the way through untill 2008
My friend has a 2.2 2006 i-ctdi civic diesel and that has the n22a2 engine.
 
Look at yours side by side with his.. See what's different ;)
 
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