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Accord Check List for Newbies

mickdj

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300 TDI DISCO
Hi im after my first accrod iv had civics and a cr-v in past and want another im lookin at a 2.2 cdti tourer, with around 100k on the clock, now i know this is goin to off been asked befor but im after the common faults to look for iv done somw serching and iv found the exhuast manifold but i was just after a list insted of having to go through ever ones problems, and the problems if any do they tend to come around the same mileage, id expect usual stuff around that mileage like clutchs, so any advise welcome thank you.
 
hi mate
first,you have to intoduce yourself to us
second,do the search here,we have a lot usefull info about cdti and commmon probs.
so ..............
Good luck ;)
 
Well, mine just set me back £1030 as clutch was slipping, but clutch was fine, it was the dual mass flywheel had gone which is an additional £600, and apparently, it's common on diesels. Other than that, the car its a fantastic,
 
there are plenty of threads on her what show a list of common problems on one post... Fahad always outlines them ;)
 
OK in the interest of keeping my sanity and to prevent this question from being asked over and over... and for those that simply cannot be bothered to use the search button! I will make this one a sticky.

There will never be a definitive list of stuff to look out for, so anyone reading this needs to bear that in mind.

On the ICTDI, the most common things to be aware of:

Cracked Manifold. If you smell fumes in the cabin or at the rear of the engine block, chances are it has a cracked manifold. It's covered by Honda for 7 years or 125k miles - no quibble.

Rattling Timing Chain - if your timing chain is noiser than normal, specifically pre-facelift cars (facelift have revised timing chain design) then you may be entitled to a new timing chain (+injectors as they need to be replaced too). Although this is also covered for 7 years/125k bear in mind this is a £4000+ warranty claim and Honda will most likely want to go through your service history to ensure it's been maintained properly.

Slipping Clutch. In 3rd or 4th gear, give the car a hard run on full throttle... if the revs rise quickly when the boost kicks in and then slip back down again, your clutch is slipping. There are various schools of thought on why this happens, and Honda themselves have issued technical service bulletins to their service teams to check the settings on the cruise control pedal switch to check for play (causing the effect of riding the clutch). I put it down to a few different reasons including a poor pressure plate design. Most of our members (myself included) who have had the slipping clutch, found that the friction plate was like new when removed but the pressure plate had adjusted to the last setting. You could keep driving for a year before it definitely needs changing but you risk damage to the flywheel. Bear in mind also that flywheel failure is rare, but not unheard of. If your Honda dealer says you need the flywheel replacing, then ask them to tell you what the freeplay readings are. Best news is that a new clutch fitted from Honda is £585 fixed.

Fuel Filter and general servicing. The ICTDI is a rewarding car to live with. BUT it MUST be serviced ON TIME and with GENUINE HONDA PARTS. Period.

If your car is suffering from hesitation, and sometimes a glow plug warning light then chances are your fuel filter needs replacing. It's the cause of 90% of issues we see on the ICTDI on this forum. Please replace it with a genuine Honda item and then continue further diagnostics if your problems persist. Sometimes the filter just needs bleeding..

The only other thing to bear in mind when servicing is Oil viscosity. The ICTDI needs to be run on 0w/30 fully synthetic oil. Do not listen to any other advice on this.

If you can afford it, try switching to Shell V Power Diesel - this engine does appreciate it.

Aside from this, things common to all Accords are issues with paint (very thin paint causing stone chip damage), some brake related problems on the rear of tourers due to collapsing brake hose... and from the top of my head.. that's really it.

Feel free to add to this thread with useful hints/tips that will add to the value of this thread.

Please refrain from banter to ensure this thread serves it purpose to newbies asking the same question!

Oh and free plug to me B) if you have an ICTDI, then you may wish to consider a remap from Elite Remaps (Stage 1 180bhp/295lbft with both power and economy benefits) Details below.
 
Hi Fahad,

thanks for the details info on the common faults for the i-cdti. Ive just bought a 53reg with 84k on the clock. Car runs great just a little annoying whining noise from the turbo.

I also serviced the car but used after market oil filter and 5W30 fully synthetic oil... would this be ok until the next time i go to service it and i will ensure i use Honda parts???

Cheers
Parv
 
oh dear...:(
 
I don't know which dealers are offering to change the clutch for £585, I have just spoken to two and they both said it would be £850! Fleet Autoway and Guildofrd Honda.
 
Honda Happiness is now:

£850 for a 7th Gen diesel.
6th Gen is £630
8th Gen Diesel is £680,
8th Gen Petrol £655.
7th Gen Petrol is £740.

Doubt you'll find a dealer willing to do it for less.
 
Just to add to the list of common faults. The air con pressure sensor is mounted at the front of the car so gets all the water, dirt, salt etc chucked at it. It's very common for this to fail causing the ac system to stop working!

Easy fix and the part is about £55 from Honda.

Another issue is with headlamps fogging up. Honda added clips to customers cars if they complained and shoved some silicon bags inside the unit to help clear any condensation. It was a cheap and poor fix and not great but it helped a bit. Mine still fog up in the corners on wet days but soon clear. I've seen some that look like it's been raining inside their lights..... Look for tide marks on the clear plastic cover at the front
 
Just thought of another common fault....

If you buy one with built in satnav then it's very common to get the famous "disc reading error"

If removed it can be returned and fixed fir about £175 alternatively there are people who have taken it apart and cleaned the lense and others that have used a knife and a baby wipe to try clean it while still in the car. I dud the last one and it worked until I turned the car off but once started again in the morning I got the usual irritating message. I don't need satnav so I've never bothered getting it sorted although it would be nice to have it working as it should be....
 
OK in the interest of keeping my sanity and to prevent this question from being asked over and over... and for those that simply cannot be bothered to use the search button! I will make this one a sticky.

There will never be a definitive list of stuff to look out for, so anyone reading this needs to bear that in mind.

On the ICTDI, the most common things to be aware of:

Cracked Manifold. If you smell fumes in the cabin or at the rear of the engine block, chances are it has a cracked manifold. It's covered by Honda for 7 years or 125k miles - no quibble.

Rattling Timing Chain - if your timing chain is noiser than normal, specifically pre-facelift cars (facelift have revised timing chain design) then you may be entitled to a new timing chain (+injectors as they need to be replaced too). Although this is also covered for 7 years/125k bear in mind this is a £4000+ warranty claim and Honda will most likely want to go through your service history to ensure it's been maintained properly.

Slipping Clutch. In 3rd or 4th gear, give the car a hard run on full throttle... if the revs rise quickly when the boost kicks in and then slip back down again, your clutch is slipping. There are various schools of thought on why this happens, and Honda themselves have issued technical service bulletins to their service teams to check the settings on the cruise control pedal switch to check for play (causing the effect of riding the clutch). I put it down to a few different reasons including a poor pressure plate design. Most of our members (myself included) who have had the slipping clutch, found that the friction plate was like new when removed but the pressure plate had adjusted to the last setting. You could keep driving for a year before it definitely needs changing but you risk damage to the flywheel. Bear in mind also that flywheel failure is rare, but not unheard of. If your Honda dealer says you need the flywheel replacing, then ask them to tell you what the freeplay readings are. Best news is that a new clutch fitted from Honda is £585 fixed.

Fuel Filter and general servicing. The ICTDI is a rewarding car to live with. BUT it MUST be serviced ON TIME and with GENUINE HONDA PARTS. Period.

If your car is suffering from hesitation, and sometimes a glow plug warning light then chances are your fuel filter needs replacing. It's the cause of 90% of issues we see on the ICTDI on this forum. Please replace it with a genuine Honda item and then continue further diagnostics if your problems persist. Sometimes the filter just needs bleeding..

The only other thing to bear in mind when servicing is Oil viscosity. The ICTDI needs to be run on 0w/30 fully synthetic oil. Do not listen to any other advice on this.

If you can afford it, try switching to Shell V Power Diesel - this engine does appreciate it.

Aside from this, things common to all Accords are issues with paint (very thin paint causing stone chip damage), some brake related problems on the rear of tourers due to collapsing brake hose... and from the top of my head.. that's really it.

Feel free to add to this thread with useful hints/tips that will add to the value of this thread.

Please refrain from banter to ensure this thread serves it purpose to newbies asking the same question!

Oh and free plug to me B) if you have an ICTDI, then you may wish to consider a remap from Elite Remaps (Stage 1 180bhp/295lbft with both power and economy benefits) Details below.

What abt the Petrol 7th Gen? have my heart set on 7th Gen type S. cheers :wub:
 
Well, the petrol, whether 2.0 or 2.4 is as close to bullet proof as you're going to find, just the usual checks regards service history etc. There shouldn't be any smoke, leaks or rattles.

On diesls, check the VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) light on the dash comes on with the ignition and then goes out (can also be switched off manually with a button to the right of the steering wheel). Can be very expensive to fix (£1k) but sometimes it's a wheel sensor. Not a problem on the petrols.

All models:

Sensitive to wheel alignment and tyres, check for uneven wear. A four wheel laser alignment is worthwhile. Umpteen threads on tyres, noise is often the biggest issue.

Clonking suspension could be anti-roll bar bushes. Lower arm bushes can also wear out, but difficult to feel, visual inspection can tell if they've collapsed.

Check clutch fluid reservoir. If it's black will benefit from a bleed, but may need clutch master cyclinder replaced, especially if the biting point is also very low.

Exhausts last a long time but genuine replacements v. expensive unless you happen to hit an offer/discount. Decent third party/fast-fit replacements hard to find. Custom stainless often the way to go and not too bad price (£300 or so).

Rear brakes on tourers prone to seizure, can often be freed off, but sometimes the caliper needs replaced.

On tourers make sure the electric tailgate where fitted works. Can be impossible to open tailgate if it goes and fixes can be expensive. Sometimes can be fixed with new support struts. Battrery off reset can get them going again short term.
 
Hi, I am Stu and new to the forum.

I am looking to buy a 59 reg Accord 2.0 ES GT with 31k on the clock, my current car is a Toyota Avensis and this suffers from he known oil consumption issue of around 1litre per 1,00 miles.

Can anyone advise if the 2.0 ES GT Accord engine has any known oil consumption issues as I don't fancy jumping out of the frying pan into the fire as it were.

Thanks in advance.

Stu
 
Just want to say thanks for all the advise above - I would have started looking at CV joints and drive shafts if I heard clonking at low speeds - not drop links! Who knew!!

Thanks again

Ritchie
 
My two penn'orth - when buying an autobox, reverse it up a hill to test. If it doesn't do it, walk away. Also ensure you can select 1 and 2 manually. If you can't, walk away.
 
Anyone tell me what the difference between the facelift and non-facelift models are please? I'm not sure what they look like! Keep seeing it mentioned and figured I can't be the only one to ask?
 
Firstly My name is Adam and I'm also new to this forum. I'm a happy owner of Honda Accord 56 reg 2.2 ICDI. When I bought this car I have been informed by other owners of honda, that this cars are one of the best. Which Im starting to believe and hope never get proven wrong.

Secondly Thank you Fahad for the dets on foults.

Lastly, I was loking over this forum looking for help with Bluetooh, I found alot of help advise and suggestions, wchich makes me think that this would also be common error. Not sure if its relate only to this model, but it surely is a problem to alot of honda owners. Most suggestions that I had was to reset your computer, unplug unit (which by the way is very easy to do) or unpluging battery for 10 min. In my case none of the suggestions worked, so I have to buy new module. Problem that I have with my blurtooth, is that none of my phones want to connect to it. Used unit on ebay is about £150, but I'm still not 100% sure, if I buy it, it will solve the problem. Some one suggested to me to ask on the forum, to borrow one that works and run test.

So my Questions is.

IS there any one, that is close to Kingston Upon Thames and has Bluetooth module for Honda Accord VII gen. I would like to borrow it, for 10 min and see if that is theissue. I would appriciate it very much.

Just a quick tip, I am shortly going abroad and have also check parts for my honda on other websites. In comparesing to UK, bluetooth module like this one, also used, cost about £50.

Worth looking at ALLEGRO.PL Its sort of simmular version of ebay, only cheaper.
 
Great thread and info helping me for things to watch out for when I go looking for the 8th Gen Accord
 
Anyone tell me what the difference between the facelift and non-facelift models are please? I'm not sure what they look like! Keep seeing it mentioned and figured I can't be the only one to ask?
Dave not much difference mechanically, Honda made some improvements to sort out some of the weakness. Most of the change is the styling on the front, the easy way tell if it's a face lift is looking at front edge of bonnet, the facelift does not have the chrome trim along the front edge also the fog lights look like they are part of the bumper not an afterthought.
 
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