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Accord & F20B6 Vs "Other" Parts Compatability

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Dangerstevie

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Accord SE Executive
I have been looking around at a lot of parts for the Accord, and I am astounded at how litle is available compared to the likes of the Civic and the Prelude. I would like to know what if anything is compatable with the 6th gen Accord from other models (even marques), i am especially inteested in intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, coilovers (Civic ones look VERY similar to the Accord) (Even though spring rates & damping may be different I still want to know).
If you say something doesn't fit, instead of saying it just doesn't fit or can't be done or not worth doing can we just say why it doesn't fit and please base this on FACT. The thing that has spurred this on is, I want to get rid of the EGR ***** on my accord and tidy up the engine bay a little and make some nicer noises and just generally make myself happier with the car and after looking at the various manifolds etc that are available they all look VERY similar, so when I whip off my intake manifold to clean out the throttle body and the EGR system I'm going to try on the D-Series manifold to see if it fits as personally I think it looks like it will flow beter than the F20B manifold.
Please share whatever you know as it would be VERY helpful to all Accord owners looking for performance parts. There is a HUGE amount of H22, B-Series and D-Series parts available at realistic prices and I am sure I'm not the only one wondering what will fit.
 
I know what you mean matey, just seems that theres nothing available and no knowledge of anything much that will fit. :wacko:
 
I was looking at the shocks as well and it seems like its the same setup as on the civics (on the front at least), if anyone has any civic shocks that they could measure the diameter of the base where it fits into the forks, the length of the shock body from base to spring platform, and the damper rod diameter. That would be a good start. I am going to try and get hold of a D16 intake manifold gasket to compare to an accord one, same with the exhaust too, although cheap and good manifolds can be sourced easily for te accord.
 
Will a non vtec f series manifold fit the vtec f series?
 
Dangerstevie said:
Anyone???
Someone must know...
Click to expand...

Any F or H series manifold will fit an F20B6. However if you are getting the non-vtec F23 manifold, it may need adjusting to join onto your existing downpipe.

As for fitting Civic suspension or manifolds, you will potentially cause yourself more issues. Civic suspension may fit, but the spring and damper rates will be made for a 1000kg car, not a 1300kg one. Same goes for using a D-series manifold. While the bolt pattern is nigh on identical to an F, you will have port matching issues with the cylinder head, which will have a very negative effect on the performance.

My suggestion...Don't waste your money on the F series (unless its a F20B bluetop, which is essentially a de-stroked H22!). The F series are reliable, punchy and economical-ish. However, it will never win any power awards and you wont see any decent gains unless you go for FI. If you are wanting to keep the car but have more power, the best bet is the tried and tested H22 swap.

You can do the swap for about £1k all in, sometimes cheaper. Also, H22's are very tunable even in N/A form, and you can see huge gains even from a set of cams.

So yeah, to summarise, save your money and either go for a H22 or buy a Type-R outright.
 
Thanks for that info...the reason a lot of folks don't just go or a h22 or a type r is that they don't have the money to do so.
I bought an IMMACULATE SE Executive that is fully loaded and want a nice noise, stance and better economy.
The economy can be gained by freeing up the intake & exhaust systems & reconditioning the injectors (as long as any additional power is not used better economy should be seen) I plan on going lpg eventually.
As for the noise and stance, std wheels, cut springs, coilies, whatever as the car doesn't get driven very hard etc etc. what's more is I prefer the interior of my SE exec to the type r....I just love my leather.
The civic coilovers if they would fit would probably be ok for the accord as the spring rates of the springs supplied with most cheap aftermarket coilover kits are way too high anyway and the shock damping rates should be suited to the springs so should be overkill for the original purpose.
I will concede that a well designed (expensive) coilover kit would be under damped and sprung) but a cheap one would probably do.
 
Hey Steve. You're in the position many people are in, irrespective of car to be honest. A bit lower/tighter feeling, and a little more engaging in terms of noise/sporty feeling ;) .

For the noise, start with your intake. I'm sure you could get a cold air intake or ram intake for your car from eBay. I don't know if this will fit your car, you'll need to check the specs, but you can see an intake mod doesn't have to break the bank and go all the way to the intake manifold.

But you can always build one yourself. Measure up, go to AP Motorstore and get what you need to build your own custom cold air intake. That's what I did ;)

Either way, simply bypassing/removing your intake resonator from the inlet path will make a big difference to the sound. Not at idle, but when you put your foot down, it should sound nice.

Then look at lowering springs. Can run on stock shocks (although they will eventually wear your shocks out prematurely) and don't cost the earth. Take these for example. Again, check your car spec, but you see they're not hugely expensive.

As for the exhaust, off the shelf things can be a little pricey sometimes and better suited to higher spec engines than yours. But shop around some custom exhaust places. I paid £450 for a phat 2.5" stainless steel twin pipe system on my K24. But as it's large engine with a twin tail pipe, it bumped the price up. I bet, with your engine, you could find someone who could make you a 2" stainless exhaust with a single tail pipe for around the £200 mark. Look up custom exhaust places in you area and just go and explain what you're after to them.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure there's a lot of useful info on the forum to help you research and make considered choices. Have a good look around, use the custom Google search as the forum's normal search bar is pap and don't be afraid to resurrect old threads if you have any questions.
 
For the exhaust system ill probably end up making my own now to be honest as I can TIG stainless and ally no worries, the accord only needs 2 bends in the system, so ill just buy the 90 deg stainless bends, some straight stainless and my existing back box (magnex 6x4 oval). I do want to change my backbox as I think it's too big and doesn't suit the accord.
The intake I can get off eBay for £36, ill be changing the filter that comes with it tho as I have a HKS mushroom filter sat on my toolbox.
I'm not too fussed about changing the intake manifold, it only crossed my mind as I have a mate with a D16A9 engined mini and he has a number of performance intake manifolds I can have if I want, if its just a case of port matching the manifold to the head that's no worries as I have full head porting facilities (die grinder, carbide burrs, sanding scrolls & experience)
 
Sounds like you've got a pretty good plan to me. Make sure you upload your photos of your work when you do it ;) .
 
No worries, the exhaust should be done sometime towards the end of this month I think as its going to fail its mot next month on it as the flex has a hole etc
 
In response to a post by stevearcade on tipex's member gallery thread, I didn't want to hijack his thread or turn it into an off topic discussion so I thought I would bung my reply in here.
Swapping suspension off other vehicles is only really frowned upon because a lot of people don't know about it and are put off by all this " it wasn't made for it lark". I'm not one of them folks.

2000 Prelude curb weight - 1380kg
Ej ek civic - 1052kg
7th gen civic hatch - 1245kg
7th gen civic saloon - 1098kg
7th gen civic coupe - 1091kg
Accord 6th gen- 1235kg

All from wiki and tbh aftermarket springs are usually too high a spring rate anyway, so the approx 150 kg overall difference between the Honda family per spring would equate to approx 37.5kg difference. That's not a lot to worry about in the world of cheap aftermarket springs. Personally I'm more than happy to run prelude or civic suspension on the accord. The only reason I'm not chopping the springs is because I don't have a spare std set knocking about.
 
Fitting Civic or Prelude springs on Accords or cutting your Accord springs down... If you have done this and have positive things to say about it, fair enough.

It's not however something I'd recommend. A quick look at some lower spring manufacturer's catalogues shows they make different rate springs for the cars you mention which would suggest at a need (or benefit) to having the right balance of spring rate and car weight.

And as for cutting springs, I'd not recommend this at all. The spring rate isn't different, it's not stiffer, only shorter. Shortening a spring without stiffening it is a problem if you ask me. Also, what's to guarantee the springs will all be cut to exactly the same length, or their structural integrity compromised by the process? I just think there's too much scope to compromise the ride, handling and stability of your vehicle. Considering what lowering springs cost, it's not worth the effort of cutting in my view.
 
Cutting springs does actually increase the spring rate because when you reduce the number of active coils the spring rate increases (see formula below), thats why usually when springs are severly cut and fitted to standard shocks they bounce like hell due the standard shocks on severly lowered cut springs are sitting statically beyond their effective damping range.
The stiffness of the spring is not altered it remains the same as the modulus of the steel and the diameter of the coils have not been altered, its just the spring rate that increases along with the decrease in active coils and length.

Spring Rate = (Modulus Of Spring Steel X Wire Diameter4) / (8 X Number Of Active Coils X Mean Coil Diameter3)

I have seen cut springs used on road and race cars, and i have ran on them myself with no issues, when done sensibly. However i have also ran on springs before that i have cut by extreme amounts and that didnt go too well, shocks on bumpstops permanently and a VERY bouncy ride, but lesson was learned very quickly and at the end of the day if you are sensible you will most likely be ok.
As for performance you want the softest spring you can get away with to allow the wheel and tyre to stay in contact with the road for as long as possible, but thats not usually done because of the complexity and expense of changing anti-roll bars & chassis bracing etc to stop the bodyroll ***ociated with soft springs. So if i run my accord on a standard spring off say a 7th gen civic that shoulc be a bit softer and also a bit shorter the ride may get a little more wallowy, the accord shocks should cope just fine (static drop should reduce the effective damping range of the shock but coupled with the (***umed) lower spring rate of the civic springs all should be good).
Cutting the springs to the same length is easy, measure accurately and take your time, the integrity of the spring doesn't get compromised with a quick cut through with an angle grinder with a 1mm blade or an air hacksaw.
 
Ok, like I said, if you've cut springs and had positive experiences, fair enough. But it's not something I'd be comfortable doing myself or recommending to others on an internet forum.

I'm aware spring rate does somewhat stiffen with shortening, but it's just too crude and simple for my liking, not stiff enough etc. There are other factors too. But rather than have this descend into a lengthy, boring discussion about a difference of preference/opinion let's just agree it's horses for courses, different strokes for different folks ;) .

Info on cutting springs
 
best way mate....Also on another note, I have made a new contact for cheap stainless steel tube, so i will be able to fab up my entire exhaust system in 51mm x 1.5mm stainless steel with no cat, 1 silencer box (14" long x 5" Dia) and a single 2" outward rolled tailpipe (Similar to the Spoon N1 backboxes) for sub £150. Then i just need to get the manifold sorted and BOOM bring on the noise, will be next month before any of that happens tho.
 
Sounds good man. Be sure to upload plenty of pictures and possibly a video or two of the exhaust noise ;)
 
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