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Anyone have experience with SMF?

Rob Cool

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mk8 Accord 2.2 Dtec
Hi all,

My car has ticked over 167K miles and the clutch has started to slip more under boost :( It's the original so I can't complain haha!!

I'm going to get a standard LUK DMF and type s clutch kit but I'm wondering if anyone has converted a 2.2 I-dtec to SMF? And if so what are their opinions of it. I've seen a few on the 7th gen with mixed reviews.
It's annoying that CG only do a complete kit with a SMF, I would prefer an uprated clutch kit stronger than a type s but not requiring a SMF :(

I'm targeting around 220-230BHP and 450Nm torque, if I can reliably push more then I will lol, once I've done all the modifications I want to achieve/make. I will be getting a custom map with a more progressive torque increase rather than a massive early peak and big drop off (this will also help the clutch + gearbox)
Do you think a Type-S clutch will be okay with this?

thank you in advance.

I have an ATS Tourer and one of Fahads Stage 2 Maps, DPF-EGR delete, I find the map ideal, smooth progressive power with no big lumps of power or torque to upset the balance of the car.
My Type S clutch seems to be holding up fine approaching 95k miles.
I would recommend Premier maps they are well proven at this stage and are a lovely map to use.
Thank you, mine currently has a map but i guess a stage 1 as its 190Hp 420Nm torque, also has had DPF-EGR delete.
I plan on fitting a custom intake, larger intercooler, run a boost controller and maybe a few other things (Maybe just fully remove the DPF/EGR system why not haha).
Not loads, but I don't know how a stage 2 map with handle the modifications as i expect the stage 2 is good if the car is left as standard? Also i expect the air flow sensor will need recalibrating as there should be a fairly big increase which might throw the ECU into a wobbly, we will see :)

Thanks for you help though, I think definitely Type S clutch is the way to go :)
Mine is stock, no need for much more and in my experience the less you do mechanically the less chance of errors.
ATS have different specs to the standard N22B1 including the clutch and that accounts for the extra power before mapping.
I value smooth drivability and the remap has delivered exactly what I wanted in terms of its usability.
If it was me I would think about a larger IC but leave the intake as stock, its too easy to mess things up in that area.
KISS principle... :)
Hi all,

Does anyone know the difference between the N22A and N22B flywheels? Competition clutch have developed a kit for the civic which, with a few adjustments should be able to fit the accord.
This may sound really stupid, but I cant fit a N22A flywheel to mine can I?

@F6HAD you've probably seen the 2 before, by the looks of it the N22B has a bigger raised clutch cover lip, whereas the N22A is quite flat is that right?

I know a lot of people on here are trying to eek me away from 'heavily' modifying it, but I can't help myself and I'm too curious to see what it's capable of. And to me what I want to do isn't even that bad, it's quite subtle for me :p haha!

Sorry mate I’ve not seen them side by side so couldn’t confidently answer your question.
What happens when you install a Single Mass Flywheel? Do you get more wear and stress on drivetrain and crankshaft bearings? Do you need to drive at higher RPM to compensate?

Has anyone seen a failed DMF? what happens? Do rubber pads (if any) disintegrate or do the springs get weak?

And finally, does anyone rebuild DMF's? The wearable parts do not look exceptionally complicated (but I haven't seen a Honda DMF)
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I have been in another car with failed DMF, the springs inside the flywheel had broken and there was a snatching each time the ears were selected.

THis vide appears to show the collapse front to rear of the DMF, plus a noise during idling.

What are you worried about, tearing the DMF to shreds once you've made your power upgrades or being able to make the most of that power? I wouldn't worry about installing a standard one as I don't think I've read of any accord dmf failures here or anywhere else and with all the examples that've had a map too so I think it would be more than capable in handling your power upgrade. I'd keep it on principle though because it buffers the drive train from excess vibration and torque, saving your drive train and making your drive much more pleasant and less juddery especially at low revs. You looking at an increase of 20 - 30 bhp over a standard map which isn't excessive, not sure it's worth the aggro or cost but that's up to you.
I never recommend a single mass flywheel conversion for all the reasons stated above, and I’ve been in Hondas with this conversion done and frankly they’re horrible - juddery, a little violent and rackety. Most Honda DMF’s are changed unnecessarily in my opinion, most mechanics don’t know how to test them for wear tolerance and figure you might as well change it while the gearbox is out when doing a clutch..
Thank you all for your help. A SMF would've been the last resort as I have never heard good things about them, if I were to use one I would've made sure that the clutch plate was sprung not a solid one to absorb some of the vibrations however how much it would've helped by I do not know.

I'm definitely going with the LUK DMF and I will fit either a type-S clutch kit or this competition clutch stage 2, my main reasoning on trying to stay clear from OEM honda clutches are that they are renowned at making them only strong enough for the standard power and not much more when you compare with other car companies. With up to 50hp (maybe more if I can) and 70Nm increase from a 'standard type s', seems to me that I will be on the limit of that clutch kit. I would prefer to put one in that is overspec'd so i don't have to worry about it, if i want to push it even more after that at least I know that will be strong enough.

Also if the kit works, nice to drive etc it may be a possible option for others on here that are looking for performance gains :)

I'm definitely going with the LUK DMF and I will fit either a type-S clutch kit or this competition clutch stage 2, my main reasoning on trying to stay clear from OEM honda clutches are that they are renowned at making them only strong enough for the standard power and not much more when you compare with other car companies.

Do you have a link to back up that statement ?

I am also running close to 170k (up from 150k some five years ago), on what is almost certainly the original clutch/flywheel and I doubt I will ever need to replace it.
In a manual the clutch is always going to be at the mercy of the driver, I've not been driving like an old lady and every now and then it will complain but I only have myself to blame for overloading the car and abusing the engine power when I want to clean out crud out of the exhaust.