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Auto gearbox range switch

luvmyaccord

6th & Type R Mod
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Location
Suffolk
Car
Accord Type R
Hey all,

So, 2.0 2004 Auto Accord Tourer. One day my D light started flashing and that threw up the EML. Got the code read and was a short in the gearbox range switch. Had it replaced today, and Honda dealer just called saying it hasn’t solved the issue and the fault code is the same - ‘short in gearbox range switch’.

I’ve had the gearbox oil changed at Honda too hoping that would help. But alas, no.

Before I start looking for a new car (I’ve had it a while and am just over 200k miles) does anyone have any other suggestions? Please? I love this car and have covered 100k miles in it all over Europe. I do not want to replace the car.
Cheers all,
Si
 
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I thought that username looked familiar. How the heck are you Simon? Sounds like if the replacement switch hasn’t worked then you’ve got a bit of a wiring issue from the ecu to the switch.. May be worth finding a friendly auto sparky to run some continuity tests.
 
Faddy!!!!! I’ve missed you my dude!

So, the fault code does not pop up anymore (no EML light) but when moving away between 1st and 2nd gear, sometimes the d3 light flickers. Push it into tiptronic and all is good lol.

I have decided that I will live with it. Going to get new disks and pads on the front as well as an upper ball joint replaced (near side front) and I think a lower control arm on the near side rear. I think my drive shafts are wearing as there’s a slight wobble when accelerating from 50-65. But as I’ve said, I genuinely love the car, and have no idea what to replace it with.
My scoob currently has a broken gearbox (426hp 401lb/ft, through a box that wasn’t meant to take more than 300 lol) so the accord will stay until time takes its toll.
Thanks dudes.
Si.
 
Could it be a faulty gear selector itself?
 
I had thought that, but Honda couldn’t find any further continuity errors. I know the service manager personally and had 2 hours trouble shooting for free lol.

I have decided that I’ll get the front disks and pads done, ball joint and lower control arm thing on the rear and then just drive it until the fault come back again.

I have been looking at what to replace the Accord with. The 8th gen is no where near big enough inside, my dad has the top spec 8th gen tourer, and mum has a 2018 HR-V, so I will (if I have to) replace with a 3rd gen CR-V in diesel guise. Can pick them up for 4K-ish. Get the DPF deleted and run it forever lol. ☺️☺️☺️☃️
 
Worth finding a secondhand selector and swapping over to eliminate that.
 
That’s a good shout tbh. I have had a few issues sometimes pressing the silver button on the thing to get it out of park, but that was a switch thing that was above the brake pedal. Cause when it wouldn’t come out of park, the brake lights weren’t on lol.

Do you know if the selectors are plug and play? I don’t mind spending £80 or so on one to see if that helps.
 
Yep it will be, can’t see them needing any coding. JAP cars generally of this era don’t need coding for any parts other than ABS or Engine ECU modules.
 
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