Battery Drain from 1 Fuse. Fuse No.7

[botty67]

Hi Everybody,

I have a fuse that's been giving me trouble with my car for as long as I can remember now. Fuse 7.

7 10A WHT/RED Combination switch control unit, Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, Immoes control unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Power tailgate control unit, Ultra sonic sensor, Alarm control silen, Multiplex integrated control unit.

Can anybody help me with a plan of action to smoke out the trouble maker?? Which is easiest to disconnect first? What its likely to be??
It leaks 0.19amps, if anybody has a fuse testing meter that they wouldnt mind checking out their own car to see what a normal read is??

Thanks for everything
Dan

 

[wookie]

You say it leaks 0.19 amps, how did you measure this? Was it across the fuse, or did you connect an ammeter at the battery terminal? How long did you wait before you took the reading? Has the car got Bluetooth? Sorry for so many questions but need to get some info to help. Generally when the car is locked it takes about 15 minutes for the multiplex and Bluetooth systems to power down. Bluetooth systems are known to fail and not power down resulting in the battery going flat

 

[freddofrog]

You say it leaks 0.19 amps, how did you measure this? Was it across the fuse, or did you connect an ammeter at the battery terminal? How long did you wait before you took the reading? Has the car got Bluetooth? Sorry for so many questions but need to get some info to help. Generally when the car is locked it takes about 15 minutes for the multiplex and Bluetooth systems to power down. Bluetooth systems are known to fail and not power down resulting in the battery going flat

there was an identical question to this a couple of months ago, the person had removed the fuse and was measuring across the fuse. As you say, the problem turned out to be bluetooth system.

 

[seo]

Hi all, sorry for resurrecting this thread but I've got a similar problem to the OP. I can't find the other post mentioned.

So, when I measure across the battery I get a parasitic draw of 0.213A. I pull fuse 7 ("backup" in the handbook) and the draw drops to 0.033A. So, what does this fuse control, is the list of things mentioned above correct.

There's an aftermarket Bluetooth Nokia system installed. I'll check tomorrow to see if its this. If it isn't this, where do I start?????

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[freddofrog]

Bluetooth/HFT drain is a common issue, best to check for a current-drain with the car locked

the best method to check is shown in this post http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/21766-alarm-going-of/?p=231529

the rest of that thread goes through the HFT disconnection, if your unit is aftermarket it could get complicated to remove

after removal, if there is still a current-draw, you will have the phantom/unknown issue http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/19730-crazy-phantom-battery-drain/ and an update http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/21477-battery-drain-and-alarm-issue-yet-again-please-help/?p=227549

 

[seo]

Found that thread after I posted.

I'll try the test with the car locked. What is the purpose of doing it with the car locked? To get the alarm units engaged and get a real figure for what the draw is?

I think I'll remove the Bluetooth system as it doesn't work that well anyway. Hopefully that will solve the issue!!!



Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[freddofrog]

^ as Paul says in #2, there are many systems in the car that can only be guaranteed to be full inactive several minutes after the car is locked, and don't forget, the drained battery is experienced when the car is locked, so you have to check with it locked.

So best to check with the car locked, which you can only reliably do by measuring the current flow from the battery with the bonnet down (or by keeping the bonnet up and using a screwdriver to shut the bonnet latch, but you still need to make sure that there is sufficient electrical conductance while the car locks and the systems power down)