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Best oil for Honda Accord Ex I-Dtec (2008)?

ship69

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'08 i-DTEC EX man 5D
Hello

Is the best recommended oil for a Honda Accord Ex I-Dtec (2008) still "EXOL - Optima LSH 0w30" ?

Many thanks

Alec
 
Brand isn’t important in my opinion, viscosity and ratings are. Fundamentally if your dpf is still present then stick to a C3 low saps 0w30 and if it isn’t then I would recommend a 0w30 C2 instead.
 
Thanks, F6HAD.

So the oil needs to be "0w30" either way.
But what's the advantage of C2 over C3?

J
 
C3 has some fairly abrasive additives that are used to help break down the ash dilution from the dpf, that’s what gives it the ‘low saps’ rating. An older (and ironically often cheaper) C2 without these abrasives are better for your engine in my opinion. But the key is it’s only better if the dpf is no longer present.
 
A) New problem: Volume!
Apparently the engine takes 5.5 litres (or is it 6.5?).
It seems that the Optima 0w30 C2 or C3 both only seem to be available as 5L (slightly too small) or 20L (too large) sizes. And the problem is that I don't have any easy way to store surplus oil!

B) DPF
Truth to tell, I am now slightly hazy about exactly what was done in the end to the DPF. All I remember is that there was a monumental problem related to the DPF and with the whole exhaust system... which lead to my having to replace the entire Turbo charger!

Either way, I am now rather terrified of my new Turbo charger getting clogged up again with soot & ash, so maybe the slightly more abrasive C3 would be better than the C2??

J
 
You need 6 litres, pop in 5.8 litres and then top up as required to get to the maximum mark. If you’re unsure if your dpf is present then yes stick to a low saps oil.
 
Hmmm... The tricky thing is where can one buy 6 litres?!

But to get clear, your view (and your experience) is that there is nothing very special about EXOL Optima engine oil, yes?

A
 
Nope I don’t recommend any specific brand.
 
C3 has some fairly abrasive additives that are used to help break down the ash dilution from the dpf, that’s what gives it the ‘low saps’ rating. An older (and ironically often cheaper) C2 without these abrasives are better for your engine in my opinion. But the key is it’s only better if the dpf is no longer present.

Never heard of them being called 'abrasive additives' before.

SAPS stands for Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur and the spec just limits the amounts of these that can be included in the oil as they can poison exhaust treatment devices when burnt.

Low SAPS oils just use different chemical additives to achieve the required performance. C3 is a more recent version of the specification that will have tighter limits on chemicals and also require higher performance in standard engine tests.

Hope this helps
 
I’ll bow to your superior knowledge on this topic mate, I know you work in the lubricants industry.
 
To get clear, the options are:

Option A): "Optima LSH 0w30 Fully Synthetic Low Saps Engine Oil Honda ACEA C2, API SN/CF"
https://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/prod...-low-saps-engine-oil-honda-acea-c2-api-sn-cf/
20L = £111.95
5L = £33.45

OR

Option B): "Optima C3 LS 0w30 Fully Synthetic Low Saps Engine Oil"
https://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/prod...20ltr-size-allow-7-working-days-for-delivery/
20L = £120.95

Conclusion:
1. Both options are "Low SAPS".
2. "Option B)" is the more expensive oil as well as being "more recent"/"higher performance". That said I don't mind the cost - I just want the best possible oil(!)
3. "Option B)" does not have a 5L option so if I need 6L for my service of my Honda Accord, then I would need to buy either:
Two of the 5L containers @ £33.45 of "Option A)" ==> £66.90
One 20L of the 20L @120.95 of "Option B)"==> £120.95

With thanks

J
 
Yes, I was about to try that, but have Lube Tech failed to reply to my email in time, so now it's now too late for my service. :(:rolleyes:

So I'll just have to take whatever the garage can get their hands on (must be grade 0w30 obviously though...)

J
 
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