What's new

Binding Brakes

nick 9-5

Members
Messages
727
Reaction score
17
Location
North Wales, UK
Car
Accord Tourer LPG
One of my rear brakes is binding and I'm going to finally have a look at it this weekend. I've got some copper slip but was wondering, as I haven't looked at the brakes/calipers/sliders etc what I shoudl be lubing.

Thanks in advance.
 
Snap, My drivers side rear is sticking and making the wheel hot. Copper grease is no good for the slides you need Red Rubber Grease .
 
Yeah, you should use the red rubber grease in the guides hidden under the sliding pins. In the guides where the brake pads actually seat, I guess its better not to use any grease, since that will attract dust and eventually make it worst, just make sure it is clean by cleaning it very well. Use something hard to scrape the rust....

If that doesn't help, you might have to rebuild the calliper by replacing the "square-cut" piston o-ring. I had to do that in mine about a year ago, and since that, the brake pads are wearing equal and no more binding.

EDIT: I have just saw that you run on LPG, what is your mileage? Also, do you use Flahslube, normal or electronic?
 
Tourers have a known problem with perishing rear brake hose causing the crap to get into the caliper behind the piston and making it stick - seems to be rear o/s that always suffers first.
 
EDIT: I have just saw that you run on LPG, what is your mileage? Also, do you use Flahslube, normal or electronic?

By mileage I presume you mean MPG? It's about 24-29 mpg. The price of LPG shot up over the Winter though and has only just recently come down by a penny. The cheapest gallon I can get is £3.13 :( And normal flashlube.

Why the interest? You thinking of getting it done?
 
Tourers have a known problem with perishing rear brake hose causing the crap to get into the caliper behind the piston and making it stick - seems to be rear o/s that always suffers first.

Perishing from the inside out I guess? How long is the section that would need to be replaced?
 
By mileage I presume you mean MPG? It's about 24-29 mpg. The price of LPG shot up over the Winter though and has only just recently come down by a penny. The cheapest gallon I can get is £3.13 :( And normal flashlube.

Why the interest? You thinking of getting it done?

That's a very good MPG. I have mine(year 2000, 1.8) already running on LPG, but unfortunately I get worst MPG, I get about 10.5 Litres/100km ( 22.4 mpg ) if driving very carefully, otherwise it goes to about 11.5 litres/100kms(20.45mpg) :(
Here in Portugal I manage to get one litre of LPG for 0.67€, but the big petrol distributors sell them at 0.82€/litre. Not too long ago, I managed to get LPG for 0.54€ and on the main distributors for about 0.67€/litre.

About the Flashlube, I am using the electronic kit.
 
Perishing from the inside out I guess? How long is the section that would need to be replaced?

Yes, they perish from the inside out, and it should be just the flexible rubber tube that goes from the hard tube to the brake calliper, about 50cm long, I guess :blush:
 
That's a very good MPG. I have mine(year 2000, 1.8) already running on LPG, but unfortunately I get worst MPG, I get about 10.5 Litres/100km ( 22.4 mpg ) if driving very carefully, otherwise it goes to about 11.5 litres/100kms(20.45mpg) :(
Here in Portugal I manage to get one litre of LPG for 0.67€, but the big petrol distributors sell them at 0.82€/litre. Not too long ago, I managed to get LPG for 0.54€ and on the main distributors for about 0.67€/litre.

About the Flashlube, I am using the electronic kit.

Actually our average is not that different, I made the conversion using US gallons instead of UK gallons :blush:.
So, with the right conversion I get 24.5-26.9 mpg :rolleyes:
 
quickest and easiest way to fix is to renew the flexible pipe and the caliper, I spent hours stripping and rebuilding mine until I bit the bullet and took it in to my mate's garage, he knew about the brake lines breaking up and the rubbish collecting behind the piston, no trouble since.
 
i guess before anything is replaced etc. you first just want to get in there and see how things are. when was the last time they were stripped and cleaned?

You'll need to have a look at the condition of the brake discs as well to see if they are lipped...pay special attention to the inside face of the disc also.

Once you have removed everything see how easy the slide pins move in and out, just pull on it and it will come out with the rubber boot (and yes don't lube this pin with copper grease, red rubber grease is best). Take the slide pins out and see if they are corroded, if they are they need renewing. Sometimes just taking things apart frees things up and don't forget to push the main piston in just to help free it up a bit.

Check how easy it is for the brake pads to move about...are they actually able to put pressure easily on the disc? Sometimes you find that corrosion has actually built up on the metal carrier that the pads slide on and this puts pressure on the pads enough that it makes them stick....clean the areas where the pads slide on with a metal file or similar to make sure the pads can slide freely.

you ultimately need to find where the problem is before thinking anything is wrong or throwing parts at it...there maybe nothing wrong and it just needed to be cleaned up and freed up.
 
I have just took my accord in to the garage due to the rear brakes binding! It sounded like a sea lions mating call on the way to the garage. I guess I'll be needing new brake lines too.
 
'Tourers have a known problem with perishing rear brake hose causing the ***** to get into the caliper behind the piston and making it stick - seems to be rear o/s that always suffers first.'

X2

Just like to thank you guys for this tip.

Binding OSR wheel on 04 Tourer - asked my spanner man to check out the hose based upon your hot tip.

He couldnt believe the ***** that came out -he'd never seen anyhting like it. The flexi hose had rotted from the inside out. A new hose & quick clean- job done.

Top tip - thanks again guys.
 
Top