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Cars going in for repairs.

Peterbfd said:
Brake Parts are - £226.04 (x2)
Europarts - £272.40 (x2)

Interesting that 7th Gen fits, on the site these are £206.40
May be worth a call to see if they sort me out some for £68ish

The binding has not occurred for about 2 months now on the rear left (although the pad is 50% lower than the drivers side).
But the drivers side started doing the same thing when the wife was driving it the other week (but has not done it since).

Although I am skint at the mo (due to just coming back from a family holiday), I would just feel better have new on both sides.
Click to expand...
This is the one I brought and fits perfectly for my saloon.
It's worth getting them as you can get your money back up to 28 days if any problems with fitting.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Honda_Accord_2.4_2003/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-caliper/?133600431&1&8ffa5a37e0c213f32b973b4c67526885e05b9ad1&000048

I'm not sure why it says left and right on the link but I no left and right are different like mirror imaged.
There was another one on the same page for right only.
Hope this helps and you have also 28 days to take the old one back to get your surcharge back.
 
Nice one, I could not find it.
£134.40 for both sides, well cheap.

Mine is a 2.0 CU1, yours is a 2.4, will this defo fit ?

Is this all I would need, do I need some kind of fitting kit
 
The only difference I found was the caliper has an extra nipple on the back that is not needed and is blanked off.
Also with the brake lines you might find the right fits better on the left and vice versa
 
Your welcome bud let me no how you get on.
Just to say you can never be 100% with non genuin new parts but you have the ease of you can take the parts back.
Take that back as the caliper was a genuine 7th gen one just reconditioned
 
Just and update regarding the issues I have had :

  • Airbag Light - Fix it myself for £40, second hand Impact sensor found on eBay plus £70 wasted due to poor advise given from Garages (Honda Cost would have been £350+)
  • Both Rear Calipers, Discs and Pads = £420 (could of done it a lot cheaper if I had the time but MOT due next week).
  • Service & MOT - £155 (Kwik Fit with a 15% of code and also 12% Cash back through Quidco - Don't usually use Kwik Fit but had to save money somewhere).

Total Cost = £685

This will get the car back in order for hopefully for many years to come
 
Car is now all sorted :

Air Bag Sensor - £110
Calipers, Discs & Pads - £420
Service & MOT - £155
CV Boot Replacement (picked up on service) - £90

Total spent this month = £775

All sorted, well that's what I thought !

1 - Yesterday I noticed that the Idle is fluctuating (going from 650 to 500 every 10 seconds or so) which makes the car feels juddery
2 - Been informed during the service that whoever did the brakes had threaded one of the nuts on the front wheel and they did not want to remove it in case it snapped (going back to people who did the brakes again at the weekend)
3 - Driving the car back from the service noticed a knocking noise coming from under the car (rear passenger I think)
Checked exhaust and this was not knocking ? only happens driving slowly and every now and again, you car feel the knocking in the car as though something is hitting the underneath.

So after spending £775, I now have another 3 problems to sort

You would think a car 7 years old with 11 service stamps (most of them by Honda) with 70k on the clock (last 4 years doing 6k a year) would be reliable and cheap to run !!
 
who did the service and MOT, was it a Honda dealer ?
likewise the brakes ?

sounds to me like someone has done some poor quality work
 
Had to save some money on the Service & MOT so went to Kiwk Fit this time.
Went back this morning, they think the balancing weight may be catching on something which is making the knocking noise as this is the thing they did with the wheels.

They could not hear the noise and confirmed that everything was OK and nothing is touching anything else.
On the drive back, I heard the noise again (a very deep dull thudding coming from the rear, tends to be when I am going very slow and maybe turning left)

Brakes were done by MCC which is a West Yorkshire garage chain

The main concern is the idle fluctuating, not major but annoying as when it is OK the car is silent on tick over which I like.

Due to all the work, Honda was out of the question as It would have cost me a fortune
 
Peterbfd said:
Had to save some money on the Service & MOT so went to Kiwk Fit this time.
Going back this morning, they think the balancing weight may be catching on something which is making the knocking noise.
Click to expand...
If it is anything do do with Kwik Fit then they're surely taking the pìss over the phone because it could well be coming from the front and is their work on the CV boot

But otherwise, more likely something to do with the work on the rear brakes, but I don't get why Kwik Fit think that the people who did the rear brakes would take the front wheels off as well.
 
Dont spend too much. There comes a point where it might be better to get a new or newer car.
 
I agree Rich but after the money I have spent I am hoping the car is sorted for many many years to come.
I did think of that but felt I had to get it through the MOT at the very least to sell the car (which was most of the money spent)

Took it to Kiwk Fit this morning and they could not hear the noise at all but when I drove the car back I heard it again.
A very deep dull thudding, tends to be when i am driving very slow and maybe when i am turning left ?

I did not think about the CV boot work which may be the issue but I think it is from the rear, although I could be wrong.
I will keep a close eye (or in this case 'ear') on it.

Any idea on the fluctuating Idle ?
This started when I picked the car up after the rear brake work, they did not touch the engine so I think this is more of a coincidence rather than them being at fault
 
Had another drive in the car and I have no idea where the noise is coming from but as Brian stated, it could be coming from the CV Boot what Kwik Fit changed.
I have looked at both sides as I ***ume you change both as a set (correct me if I am wrong)

One side is grease free but the passenger side on the Rubber is full off grease (clean grease as well)
There is also alot of grease on the inside of the alloy.

I am also ***uming that the fitting of the CV Boot is done with the wheels removed ?
If this is the case the last place there would be grease would be the alloy.

Have they fitted it correct ?
The symptom of a knackered CV Boot is clicking isn't it (which may be the noise I hearing).

Anyway, back to Kwik Fit tomorrow for them to have another look !
 
Peterbfd said:
Had another drive in the car and I have no idea where the noise is coming from but as Brian stated, it could be coming from the CV Boot what Kwik Fit changed.
I have looked at both sides as I ***ume you change both as a set (correct me if I am wrong)

One side is grease free but the passenger side on the Rubber is full off grease (clean grease as well)
There is also alot of grease on the inside of the alloy.

I am also ***uming that the fitting of the CV Boot is done with the wheels removed ?
If this is the case the last place there would be grease would be the alloy.

Have they fitted it correct ?
The symptom of a knackered CV Boot is clicking isn't it (which may be the noise I hearing).

Anyway, back to Kwik Fit tomorrow for them to have another look !
Click to expand...
you don't replace both sides

the wheel definitely has to come off

the suspension has to be partly dis-***embled to get the CV joint (still attached to the driveshaft) out of the wheel-carrier-arm

the grease could be from when the old boot split (it flies out), but a good quality mechanic will clean it off. If he did that, then the grease could be from a poor quality installation of the boot. Or maybe it's from both.

the cost of the boot is peanuts, virtually the whole cost is labour + VAT

edit: IMO most of the problems you're getting are due to bad workmanship, if a car-owner doesn't know anything about cars, they know, and some places do sloppy work if they think the owner doesn't know
 
Thanks for the Info Brian.
The CV Boot cost me £90.

I have however come to the conclusion it is the rear brakes that are making the noise.
It only does it when I am braking at a slow speed (I ***ume it does it at any speed but when slow I can hear it)

Therefore back to the other garage now who did the Caliper, Discs and Pads.
Retaining clip maybe no put on correctly ?
The pads also seem a little to big for the Discs as they are rubbing the none silver part by about 3mm ?

They did say they had delivered 4 sets of pads before they got the right ones (but I still think they may be wrong)

PS - The CV Boot had a 'Pin Hole' in it apparently
 
What type of handbrake is the rear on your car, is it the drum-brake (which has outer disc-brake for the foot-brake), or is it the combined disc-brake caliper ?
The 7th gen always had combined disc-brake caliper on the saloon, with inner drum-brake for hand-brake on the Tourer, but AFAIK it's not as straightforward on the 8th gen. You can tell by looking at the size of the central section of the disc.
 
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