What's new

Cdti lack of power

More specifically it's the vacuum pipe going to the turbo actuator rod.
If I pull the pipe off the car drives great, just not full turbo pressure.
I think the turbo solenoid needs replacing.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Soooo I have tried another vacuum selonoid and it was the same, so am I right in thinking it must be the turbocharger at fault ?

When the engine is started the actuator rod on the turbocharger lifts up, if I remove the vacuum hose the actuator rod drops back down, is this correct ?
As when I remove the vacuum hose and the actuator rod is fully down car revs freely, but when I reattach the vacuum hose the actuator rod lifts back up and the car no longer revs freely under 2000rpm, it revs quite a bit slower.
Does this make any sense to anyone ?
Anyone know what it could be ?
Does the actuator rod move the variable vaines in the turbo ?
Does that mean that a actuator rod that moves freely is freely and correctly moving the variable vaines inside the turbo ?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
I wish I could help more, but this is now an area I've fortunately managed to avoid. I do know that the rod from the solenoid does move the turbo nozzle mechanism to adjust the boost, in order to satisfy the ECU map requirement (with feedback from the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor to form the closed-loop control system).

Ideally you need a full diagnostic check, but at least a simple OBD2 scanner should be able to give you realtime boost (MAP) and MAF data. I know you've cleaned it, but this might be a MAP sensor problem (ruining the closed-loop boost control system?)... you should see a MAP reading of around 100kPa (1 bar) with the engine off if the sensor is OK.

I'm surprised you aren't getting error codes though...
 
Mate just book it in with me and I'm sure we can solve it.
 
The car is not worth spending £200 on, so unless I can get it fixed very cheap it will just be used/abused as is.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
That's fair enough mate. In that case try blanking the egr temporarily as I first suggested. You seem to have tried everything else but not the very thing I suggested.
 
Well just seen this reply f6had.
I saw the one you posted the other day saying the same and I thought I'm pretty sure it's not the egr as I tested it and it was sealing ok.
Anyway I had a blanking plate laid around and fitted it earlier, it now revs at standstill so much faster than ever right through the
Rev range.
It also drives and pulls away from a standstill as it should but it obviously won't rev over 2250rpm.
So it seems like f6had was correct all along.
I have two options now, I can either get it remapped out for £100 or fit a used egr valve for £50.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Whiteakita said:
Well just seen this reply f6had.
I saw the one you posted the other day saying the same and I thought I'm pretty sure it's not the egr as I tested it and it was sealing ok.
Anyway I had a blanking plate laid around and fitted it earlier, it now revs at standstill so much faster than ever right through the
Rev range.
It also drives and pulls away from a standstill as it should but it obviously won't rev over 2250rpm.
So it seems like f6had was correct all along.
I have two options now, I can either get it remapped out for £100 or fit a used egr valve for £50.
You must have been wrong about the EGR valve closing properly then! But I'm glad you're getting somewhere now.

Personally I'd rather have a secondhand EGR valve than a worryingly cheap remap.
 
Told ya.

Just make sure whoever is going to tune it for £100 is actually closing the egr maps and not just deleting errors. I know it's a cheap old car but things should always be done properly.
 
Top