Changing the battery and ECU
- Thread starter exec
- Start date
Always been pretty straight forward for me.
Negative cable first, 10mm deep* socket or spanner on the battery post clamps and hold-down clamp.
You will need your radio code and will need to reset the Auto Driver Window function.
Andy
*you don't need a deep socket on the battery post clamps but will on the hold-down clamp, else a 10mm spanner will suffice.
Negative cable first, 10mm deep* socket or spanner on the battery post clamps and hold-down clamp.
You will need your radio code and will need to reset the Auto Driver Window function.
Andy
*you don't need a deep socket on the battery post clamps but will on the hold-down clamp, else a 10mm spanner will suffice.
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
Exactly as above dude.
Would just like to reiterate that the negative off first, and when replacing, positive on first.
Would just like to reiterate that the negative off first, and when replacing, positive on first.
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
I wouldn't worry. It sorts itself out with a week. 
BlueVTEC
Members
Just to give you a proper reply rather than that above....With the window up, press the switch down fully (should be 2 click) until the window is fully down. Hold the switch down still for a couple of seconds, then pull the switch up and hold again for a couple of seconds once the window is closed.
Auto function should work again after that.
p.s also worth adding. You may notice the car may idle different after reconnecting the battery (revs will drop very low after startup almost stalling, then it will recover to normal RPM). This is normal. It should return to normal after a few runs.
mac5
Members
My car largely sits with the battery disconnected as it isn't used for periods of time... the auto driver's window catches me out every time...
Just to give you a proper reply rather than that above....With the window up, press the switch down fully (should be 2 click) until the window is fully down. Hold the switch down still for a couple of seconds, then pull the switch up and hold again for a couple of seconds once the window is closed.
Auto function should work again after that.
p.s also worth adding. You may notice the car may idle different after reconnecting the battery (revs will drop very low after startup almost stalling, then it will recover to normal RPM). This is normal. It should return to normal after a few runs.
Cheers for the instructions, I actually have never put the windows fully down as it seems to struggle and I get worried it won't come back up again :lol: probably was due to the old crappy ford battery!
New battery is much better, car starts up much faster now.
BlueVTEC
Members
Good to hear! The slow window is mostly likely down to the seals/runners being dry. First I would try spraying some grease onto the rubbers that run parallel with the window (near the door "post"). Failing that, whip the door card off (takes 10 minutes) and grease up the runners.
Don't get it on the windows!
BlueVTEC
Members
No problem! It would be unusual for the window to fall off the runner due to the design (imagine how a rollercoaster is fixed to the track), but it's not uncommon for the window to work loose from the slider. I recently done mine as the drivers window was a bit floppy, but thankfully it was an easy fix!
If there's anything I can help with let me know. I've worked on hundreds of 6th Gens and know every single nut and bolt on them...My bashed knuckles and dirty nails are a testimony to that!