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Clutch change plus more

Draga

Draga

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Messages
120
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3
Location
London
Car
CL9
Hi

I have just had my clutch replaced on Tuesday, i also had my serpent fan belt, water pump, coolant anti freeze, oil filter and oil changed also. This weekend all parts are honda original. changed due to high milage 116k

now all of a sudden i am getting really poor petrol performance the car is drinking petrol i went threw a quarter tank on a 20 mile journey.

Further to this... MY MPG screen is actually showing me 20.8mpg jumping to and from to 22.2mpg before i use to get 29.4- 30mpg how ever this was reset?
going on the needle for more accurate result my car is drinking so much more then it use it.

if any one has any info in regards to what to check would be great thanks
 
i have done that they said its all in my head and i am telling them its not the car is defiantly drinking a lot more petrol. I spoke to Honda they said well we can run a diagnostic for £80. i am sending my ECU off for a remap to UKCL9 on Monday.
 
it is more likely that they had the battery disconnected while doing the work and all your learnt adaptation values have been cleared. It will settle back in over time.
 
Fahad, are the Accords like the BMW's brain then? By that I mean the car learns your driving styles, speed etc, as the E65 used to with me. With that car you could clear the learned memory with a procedure involving accelerator pedal and settings in the i Drive, iIrc.
If the Honda can 'learn' can that be reset?
 
All cars generally built after 1996 (some before) have modern self adapting ecus
 
Yea the adaption thing is true about the ECU but the petrol res does not lie.
 
Update this morning oil lights start blinking and guess what i got a massive oil leak!
 
^ maybe get a complete RAC or AA inspection report done on the car too ?


edit: it'll cost you a bit of dosh, but you may need it if you have to take the garage to court
btw "Judge Rinder" is a TV show that might be interested if you have to go that far (I contacted them about something non-car-related and they were very interested, but the other party would not attend, so I'll be doing my non-car-related claim in county court)

http://www.rac.co.uk/buying-a-car/vehicle-inspections/
 
freddofrog said:
^ maybe get a complete RAC or AA inspection report done on the car too ?


edit: it'll cost you a bit of dosh, but you may need it if you have to take the garage to court
btw "Judge Rinder" is a TV show that might be interested if you have to go that far (I contacted them about something non-car-related and they were very interested, but the other party would not attend, so I'll be doing my non-car-related claim in county court)

http://www.rac.co.uk/buying-a-car/vehicle-inspections/
Click to expand...

you recommend the prestiage one?
 
I don't know, how about some more details, such as how much you paid, and why that particular garage (don't name it at the moment) ?

clutch change on that car is the biggest job on that car btw
 
That garage is my mates dads garage they hired a new mechanic who did the work.
i get my work done at a discount there 600 for the lot. My mate is fuming and is getting a honda mechanic in to check the car
As soon as i get my car back i will get it checked over by honda. I will not be using or recommending this garage to any one
 
Sounds like that's only just happened otherwise the oil light would have come on before so hopefully all will be okay.

Not great but we all make mistakes.
 
i dont think the guy that came out is a honda expert so defiantly going to pay private to get it done RAC .I know all that burn bridge speech but now is not the right time. that friend ship is over. mean while i am sending my ECU off to UKCL9 for a remap come monday. I only just got my car back. a note for all cl9 2.4 owners i can confirm that the amazing information screen tells you when it is losing oil before the red light oil tank is showen and your subplug falls out.As when i parked out about 4liters of oil just poured out other car manufactures please take note. So good fail safe. the RAC guy ran the engine and said i doubt there is any engine damage on this because the amount oil found on the place i was parked. He also said i am very lucky the car told me somthing was up with the oil before it all poured out. Because normally you are told when you hit min oil level.

If i dont answer your questions its because i dont know the answer
 
it's difficult to know what to suggest, other than postponing the ECU remap until everything is sorted out.

£600, discounted, is about the right price for all that.

If we look on the +ve side, it might only be the sump plug that is at fault. But on the -ve side, it does indicate bad workmanship somewhere else. To do the clutch on the 2.4, the gearbox has to come out ....to take the gearbox out, the sub-frame has to be removed ....and to do that the exhaust has to be dropped.

When I had the clutch done on my car (quite a few years ago, on "Honda Happiness" price), I went to see the flywheel on the engine (because the dealer called me and said that it might need a new flywheel, so I went to look and told them to leave it alone). The car was up on a lift, the gearbox-end of the engine was supported on a long pole, and the gearbox and exhaust and sub-frame were on the floor.

That is a lot of work, and a sump plug that has not been properly tightened would not inspire me with confidence.

Maybe call the RAC, tell them that one of their chaps left you a report on the sump plug, tell them the rest, and see if their inspection would be able to check on the workmanship of the exhaust/sub-frame/gearbox re-installation.

Finally, on the poor mpg, there is also the possibility that something else has been bùggered up.
 
Thanks fred i will get rac to take a look. I am going for the 307 check specific around clutch and gear box sub frame ect as you said
 
It's a tricky one...because the only way you check if everything was torqued correctly is to re-do the job.

BUT it could just be one isolated bolt...you put it back in hand tight when the oil stops coming out but then forget to nip it up...easily done IMHO.

I once forgot to torque up my wifes wheel nuts...and this week a BMW franchised dealership did exactly the same thing to my sister-in-law.

The fuel thing - what could cause that?
 
Not sure drove 20miles at 40 mph in 5th gear on a very empty road 5 round abouts so stopped at 2 went over 3 at about 20 exacly 1/4 tank gone if i didnt have the fuel issue i would of said yea maybe forgotten but! Because of the petrol issuE better safer then sorry, i am also wondering the garage said they would check for lose nuts and so forth and took the car for 5/6 hours BUT again i dont understand how they managed to check the clutch to the sump plug without emptying the oil because they didnt refill the oil.

Gave the car good thrashing just now at high revs VSA lighy blinks at gear change? The caution triamgle? Never had that before gear change at 4.5k - 6k rpm. 5mile run
 
Well i dont know any good mechanics i will just get RAC to do a check on the work carried out. If push comes to shove my solicitor will get involved. Thanks all for the help.
 
You want to ask them to check if there is evidence of the exhaust/sub-frame/gearbox having been removed, and if any of the visible bolts/set-screws appear to be missing or loose.

And as Cliff says, poor mpg could literally be due to anything that was moved out of the way and not put back properly. Again, they may be able to find this, maybe not (if it's not obvious).



As an indication of part of the job, here is the text (diagrams omitted) for gearbox removal.
Anyone doing this job does not have to be a "Honda technician" as long as they have access to a Honda e-manual (DVD), but If they tried this job without reference to the correct workshop-manual, god knows what else was removed.



Manual Transmission Removal

1. Disconnect the negative [-] cable first, then the positive [+] cable from the battery. Remove the battery.

2. Remove the air cleaner housing.

3. Remove the battery tray.

4. Carefully remove the slave cylinder so as not to bend the clutch line. Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.

5. Remove the cable bracket [A], then disconnect the cables from the top of the transmission housing.
Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together so as not to bend the cables.

6. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector [A], back-up light switch connector , and reverse lockout solenoid connector [C].

7. Disconnect the secondary heated oxygen sensor [secondary HO2S] connector [A], then remove the bracket .

8. Remove the front engine mount stop [A] and front engine mount mounting bolt .

9. Remove the rear engine mount stop.

10. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts.

11. Remove the upper transmission mounting bolts.

12. Attach the engine hanger [A] to the long nut on the EGR passage.

13. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.

14. Remove the transmission mount bracket [A] and ground cable .

15. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.

16. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.

17. Remove the splash shield.

18. Remove the exhaust pipe A.

19. Remove the driveshafts.

20. Remove the intermediate shaft.

21. Remove the heat shield.

22. Remove the steering line bracket.

23. Remove the oil pipe.

24. Remove the lower rear engine mount mounting bolts.

25. Remove the lower transmission mount mounting nuts.

26. Remove the middle subframe mounting bolts.

27. Make the appropriate reference lines [A] at both ends of the subframe that line up with the edge [C] of the stiffeners [D].

28. Support the subframe with a 4 x 4 x 40 in. piece of wood and a jack.

29. Remove the front suspension subframe stays [A] and front suspension subframe .

30. Remove the upper front engine mount bracket.

31. Remove the shift cable bracket [A], upper rear engine mount mounting bolt and rear engine mount [C].

32. Remove the upper rear engine mount bracket.

33. Remove the clutch cover.

34. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and remove the lower transmission mounting bolts.

35. Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower the transmission on the transmission jack.

36. Remove the front lower transmission mount [A] and rear lower transmission mount .

37. Remove the boot [A], release fork , and release bearing [C] from the transmission [D].
 
Thanks all for the input bad luck is on my side and i have to drive to bham from gants hill... due to family issues. Once i am up there will phone rac to confirm they can book a time check the workmanship worse case i get stuck in bham...

I have ran out of thank yous for the day
 
It's an odd one...possibly it's a sensor, not put back or broken....but the check engine light's not on...there might still be a fault code that points to it even though there's no light.
 
Strange this morning my mpg is now reading 34mpg and the petrol needle is not going doing like a led ballon
 
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