freddofrog
won 16.4k on Euro lottery :)
Yeah it's getting scary, and I don't believe that DTC's are always correct, no systems ****yst can come up with all the fault permutations and combinations and then expect some kind of auto-diagnostic software to be correctly implementedgeoffdragon said:Came across a "car reliability survey" on the net yesterday and Honda are top of the list. However, it also said that 33% of breakdowns/repairs accross all manufacturers are electrically related.
Bring back the magneto and dynamo.
Did you connect a jump-cable from battery -ve to chassis, then put the 1 Ohm resistor from battery -ve to chassis, wait a while, then remove the jump-cable ? The reason for that is that the initial current surge is around 10 Amps, and a 1 Ohm resistor will drop 10 Volts for 10 Amps i.e. the full voltage will never get delivered across the car system, so it won't be able to actually pull the 10 Amps, so the system might be in some weird state.geoffdragon said:Checked the resistance of the 1 ohm resistors and they are bang on 1 ohm.
Have measured the drain using the 1 ohm resistor and the DIGITAL MM and oscilloscope using mv as ma.
Conected the DMM up first to get an idea and not to risk my o'scope. Fluctuating between 22 and 48 ma.
Connected o'scope and after playing with mv and time scales get readings showing 21ma for 4 seconds going to 50ma for 600ms, then back to 21ma. The maximum reading was 50ma.
Reconnected the Wattmeter and it shows 126ma draw in an hour, peaking at a 150ma spot reading.
How do I reconcile these tests ?
If you did do that, then put the Watt-meter in series with the 1 Ohm resistor (wait a while, remove jump-cable) then cross-check the Watt-meter mA readings against the mV readings across the 1 Ohm resistor.
It sounds to me like someone has been really messing with the wiring in theregeoffdragon said:Just spent an hour removing the Parrot wiring, and found what I think is a "mute" box.
The wiring had been cut going into the SRS control box, looping into the Parrot module and then back to the SRS box.
Wonderful sparky did that job, all connections crimped.
I've removed it all and repaired the original loom. So thats gone.
Still no difference in the Wattmeter readings.
I'm ***uming its the SRS unit. Its a black box with 2 plugs in the side of it, bolted to bracket below the satnav dvd unit, in front of the ashtray.
Anyone confirm ?
Or it could be the ECM/PCM ? Whatever that is.
Sweat over, it's the premium sound system amplifier ***embly.
btw ECM/PCM = "Engine Control Module / Powertrain Control Module" = engine ECU (in the days when cars only had one ECU and ECU stood for Engine Control Unit)