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Diesel Fuel filter drain plug

Jon_G said:
Can I just sit on the fence and declare that I'm happy to use either ramps or jacks/supports depending on what I'm doing and how I feel?

But I am envious of those with access to a 4-post lift. I once had access to several, but no longer (and I do miss it)...
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For anyone who "loves" car ramps and has a trolley-jack, jack the car up at the front, shove the ramps in, then lower the car onto the ramps :lol:

Or .....you go to a car-boot sale, someone is selling ramps for £5, someone else is selling a trolley-jack for £5, you only have £5, which one do you buy .
 
Jon_G said:
Can I just sit on the fence and declare that I'm happy to use either ramps or jacks/supports depending on what I'm doing and how I feel?

But I am envious of those with access to a 4-post lift. I once had access to several, but no longer (and I do miss it)...
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Certainly safer than the two post ones

https://instagram.flhr3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/t50.2886-16/20269414_153110845264516_6146789484152225792_n.mp4


Anyhow its looking like the seal under the filter has perished on one side, twisting it a quarter turn either way allows the diesel to drip out the bottom (as does using the hand pump until it is rock hard), currently nothing is coming out and the filter is full, but if I turn the engine over I get some loss past the seal.

So, off to the auto factors for one flat washer.
 
And, no flat washer that looks remotely like this one anywhere, so a complete filter mechanism and the fun in replacing the old unit.

Who the F*$$%%&&*K designed the release clamp bolt to sit behind the unit that needs releasing ? They should be strung up with piano wire by their danglies.

Anyhow, done (about 70 minutes give or take ten to retrieve more gloves and tend to the bleeding).

I managed to get most of the air out the system and then the battery died so first thing tomorrow. I've put the engine cover back on since I'm slightly optimistic (or probably I don't wish to look at a spanner tomorrow except the 10mm for the battery terminals.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Who the F*$$%%&&*K designed the release clamp bolt to sit behind the unit that needs releasing ?
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Same person that designed the bracket that holds the clutch master fluid reservoir.
 
Jon_G said:
Hope it was a Bosch filter (part number ending in 442)?
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I was looking for a direct replacement for the washer, the existing filter had only one mark (AA18) on it.

The new one is a Mahle, at least it's German.
 
This is developing into a saga GO HERE
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIztmJqNrs1QIVSbftCh3-wAuzEAAYASAAEgLysvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
GET THE BOSCH filter with 442 on the end. When you have removed the awkward bolt throw it away, refit the filter, beleive me it will not go anywhere, fit the pipes in the right order, no kinks or tight bends, pump the primer until the bulb is hard, start engine, "simples" stop playing about with things.








0300-450-906-442-1.jpg
loupe.png
3 images


030.png





Fuel filter
BOSCH - Ref: 0 450 906 442





Outer Diameter [mm]
80



Inner Diameter [mm]
8



Height [mm]
177



Technical Information
In-line fuel filter



To construction year
12/2005
 
And use the bleed nut on top of the filter to remove the air.
 
The earlier filter was unknown, the latest one is the only one available at short notice. What price for a Bosch unit and where ?

Going to try starting tomorrow regardless though, today was earning money in another car while battery charges.
 
Charged, starts, no leaks, running.

It would be good to know why the Bosch filter is rated higher than the ones widely available though. Are there any pointers on the forum threads where others have suffered directly as a result of the alternatives ?

This German option was the only one immediately available and was £8. What would be the Bosch version through the autofactors (or the official retail cost through Honda before fitting) ?
 
i-CTDi aftermarket fuel filter problems are well-aired on several Honda forums... it's pretty much the biggest single cause of running problems. Don't know why so many aftermarket filter manufacturers can't make a decent version for these engines, but many can't.

I paid £17 for an OEM Bosch filter from Mister-Auto.
 
Yeah, it's an odd thing for sure. For the extra couple of quid, I bought an OE one from honda.

Also noticed that post remap, the air filter in my diesel would matter too. The cheap pattern stuff would just knock the edge off the performance a little. Got a Bosch branded air filter from euros in there at the moment and it's happy though.
 
I did look for specific issues on this forum with the search engine, but nothing concrete. I would hazard a guess that apart from physical defects leading to splitting/bypass of the filter mechanism, or materials contaminating the fuel as it passes through, the remainder would be

inefficiency causing restriction of fuel to the high pressure pump,
gumming up prematurely, or
breaking up completely inside, contaminating the fuel pipes.

So what happens ?

4cK261F.jpg
 
The cars experience cutting out, so must be a fuel starvation issue.

Mire likely to be air that hasnt been bled from the filter, than lack of flow i reckon.
 
I'm sure it's due to the interaction of subatomic particles operating in the quantum field, affecting the pulsation of bio organic fluids through the macro matrix structure, causing a 4D turbulence into the pump.
 
freddofrog said:
I'm sure it's due to the interaction of subatomic particles operating in the quantum field, affecting the pulsation of bio organic fluids through the macro matrix structure, causing a 4D turbulence into the pump.
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I second this
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
The cars experience cutting out, so must be a fuel starvation issue.
Mire likely to be air that hasnt been bled from the filter, than lack of flow i reckon.
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Thanks to the location, once the filter is in place it is virtually impossible to get a 10mm ring spanner onto the bleeder.

It's almost worth drilling a hole above and go in with a 1/4" drive.
 
all working fine now ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
No fuel loss below, but I've only taken her around the block a few times. I'll hand the loan car back tomorrow and take her for a long drive after.
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Sounds good [emoji106]

Sent from my LG-K100 using Tapatalk
 
I had to stay around the home longer than I wanted, but a five mile drive an hour ago and everything looks good.

I'll be a bit happier once I've put the diagnostic tool on and checked the numbers though.

Maybe the older fuel filter did have some effect on starting when hot.

(Who makes one with the designation AA18 ?)
 
Hmmm, the OBD device is showing no codes last night, but I expected at least some to mention battery disconnection etc. The supplier did update their app in the past fortnight which has erased the original car data from the record though

I will revert to the Pin 4/9 tomorrow if there is no joy.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Hmmm, the OBD device is showing no codes last night, but I expected at least some to mention battery disconnection etc. The supplier did update their app in the past fortnight which has erased the original car data from the record though

I will revert to the Pin 4/9 tomorrow if there is no joy.
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Why?
 
Jon_G said:
Why?
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I would have expected historic codes to remain in the car's memory, but noow I have tried the Androd mobile, again there are no codes stored or appear when driving.

and no leaks.

So all looks good
 
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