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Diesel tourer no power again!

rhyeung

rhyeung

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Location
essex
Car
SPORT TOURER
Hi, I found out my car has no power too? It starts couple of days ago, couldn't rev up on the motorway on 4th gear, I have to change to 3rd gear, I experienced the lack of power before, and I change the EGR valve and IMRC brand new 20k miles ago and I had been trouble free until now, the fuel filter which I change myself too in genuine part 2 days ago! I wait too see what happen as I use this car to tow, the heavy trailer sometime course the car couldn't rev up in related to the speed and gear changing. Everyone's advice and help is appreciated
 
Just to confirm, the problem happened before you replaced the filter?

Any warning lights? Would be useful to read the code(s).

Is there a lot of smoke from the exhaust? Could indicate intercooler problem.
 
Hi Jon, and thanks for the quick response, yes, the problem happened before I change fuel filter 2 days ago, the reason I post this is I found out after the fuel filter replaced this morning towing my heavy trailer is also no power on second gear with full acceleration!
We'll, my car has no smoke at all..

Ray
 
Again, any error codes? Does the turbo kick in successfully any overboost underboost errors?
 
The turbo kick in awesome before the problem, and I think the turbo kick in ok when I got it rev up..it just intermittent, I have to bear it with my right foot constantly up and down pressing the pedal in second gear this morning to speed up, once the power come back, turbo kick in as usual.
I don't have code reader unfortunately, I may go to my garage near by to let them check for me?
 
Could it be the Throttle Position Sensor? Does the same effect happen in all gears?
 
No light is on as far as I know. I seriously need my car back with power..it's dangerous as well with no power on the road.
 
I had these symptoms exactly - Holdcroft Honda found a small trim panel had dropped and was blocking an intake....I was very happy with that!

Cant remember specifics - sorry
 
Hi guys, I haven't had a chance to drive properly after the fuel filter had been replaced yet, will update everything
 
did you connected all fuel lines correctly? did you bleed fuel system after filter replacement?
 
Hi brodzui, I didn't touch the fuel lines while I change the fuel filter, and it wasn't my first time changing this now, but I will check this tomorrow, and yes I prime it till it felt hard enough and then unscrew bleeding nut and bubble come out a little then screw back, would it be not bleed properly? I would also do again, but having a evening shopping, driving down town, wasn't too bad at all, I would give a bit of time, the car is driving very good before this problem happen.
Also, I have a other issue which I want to mention it start annoying me now, when the car in cold start or first start, I've actually hear some squeak notice coming from my wheel or suspension which seems the metal need grease up a little do you know what I mean? I check the brake or disc, not get too hot or smell nothing, so is not the calipers I guess.
 
Could your fuel system be sucking in air from somewhere like a pipe connected to the FF.
Also the metal noise from the brakes might be low pads
 
brett said:
Could your fuel system be sucking in air from somewhere like a pipe connected to the FF.
Also the metal noise from the brakes might be lie pads
Click to expand...
Do you mean the FF still has some air on it? I will try to bleed it again tomorrow..
I would let mechanic to check this issue, it happen about 1 month ago already, must be something need doing..
 
Hi mate, drop me a line I'm down in Watford tomorrow evening. If you can bring it to me I'll check it. Might be a sticking egr valve again or even a boost leak.
 
F6HAD said:
Hi mate, drop me a line I'm down in Watford tomorrow evening. If you can bring it to me I'll check it. Might be a sticking egr valve again or even a boost leak.
Click to expand...
Hi faddy, I will be gutted if the EGR valve stick again after only 20k miles used! By the way, I was thinking about you, I'll drop you a line to see what's happen, the weather isn't that good recently..
 
edgeoftime said:
The book says after replacement of fuel filter, squeeze bulb 40/50 times until hard. Nothing about opening bleed screw.
Click to expand...
Hi, as far as I get the info from AT, the screw on the top is for bleeding air out. Nonthing harm I believe..
 
It can take quite a lot of cranking for the air to shift through the pump and injectors if you don't let it out of the screw (10mm bolt). The bolt is there to bleed air out and normally you'd pump the bulb, bleed, pump, bleed, etc until just fuel comes out, then you'd try to start up. But I believe the facelift Accord fuel filter (Denso) is self-bleeding.
 
Hi Jon, while I change the FF, I did unscrew the bolt and as soon as I see the bubble out out then the diesel coming out, I actually forgot repump it and simply just bolt it back tight I was thinking do I bleed the air completely....
 
edgeoftime said:
I am no expert but just followed the book, no problem found. But I would not expect you experts to follow my example.
Click to expand...
Hi, it's the pre facelift and facelift design for the fuel filter mate. My one is pre facelift and hence bleeding is needed when replacing FF
 
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not sure if this will post.
 
edgeoftime said:
scan%2023-10-2013%2009h38m28s.jpg


not sure if this will post.
Click to expand...
It hasn't!

What book is it? Is it for the pre-facelift models?

Like I said, the air will be drawn through the filter and engine without the 'bleed bolt' being used but it does take a bit of cranking (I had to bleed the system this way when I stripped down my diesel pump). And I can't imagine what else the bolt could be for, if not air bleeding.
 
luckboy16138 said:
Hi, it's the pre facelift and facelift design for the fuel filter mate. My one is pre facelift and hence bleeding is needed when replacing FF
Click to expand...
Yes, it's always necessary to bleed the air out but - as mentioned - it can be drawn through the whole system to be bled out.

If you already have the engine running then it should't need any more pumping. If it does, then you have an air leak somewhere.
 
Jon_G said:
Yes, it's always necessary to bleed the air out but - as mentioned - it can be drawn through the whole system to be bled out.

If you already have the engine running then it should't need any more pumping. If it does, then you have an air leak somewhere.

Hi Jon, the engine start first time every-time, when after the FF changed, start as usual, I had a 20 miles drive this morning, I have to say the car has only two acceleration missing, one is approaching to main road, first gear into second gear and the other one was second to third gear changing, I press the food down for about 5 secs till it rev up again and the power is back to normal, apart from this, all the way was alright, including motorway, pulling strong on each gear changing and turbo kick in as usual..


Do you think the car has air leak somewhere?
Click to expand...
 
No, I don't think it's an air leak.

As reported in a thread recently, an air leak on the fuel pump suction side will allow the fuel to drain back to the tank overnight and cause starting problems, which you don't have.
 
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