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DIY - Replace bad/cracked manifold on 2.2 i-ctdi Accord 2007

The dreaded cracked exhaust manifold strikes again. Although i closely inspected the manifold, could not notice any obvious cracks that could cause the leakage. The area blackened is between the head and the manifold. Could it be that it is something else? I have made an appointment for the 24th with my dealer, although i am not very optimist that something good can come out of it. I know it is out of topic, but i will be needing a LCA too. If anyone has one pm please. 2004 limousine.
20161011_102217.jpg
 
The crack in the manifold is not visible, the crack is so small that the smoke are just coming out when the manifold is cold. When the engine and manifold heats up, the leakage gets smaller or completely gone. It could also be the gasket that are gone, but either way you need to take the manifold off to replace this one. My heat shield was totally black, your seems like the leakage is on the side og the manifold or gasket. Try to have someone to start the car for you when it cold, an inspect the manifold from above whit the heatshild removed. On my car I could clearly see the exhaust coming out from the bad manifold.
 
Could be just a gasket then? Mine sometimes brings the smell inside when idling at traffic lights or traveling at low speeds.
 
Just checked my manifold from under the car while doing an oil change, I can see a lot of carbon around the right side of the manifold and on the engine block. Looks like I will have to get a kit and get this done. I have noticed fumes at idle since I bought the car. It has 138k miles up now.
Access looks tight but not impossible.
 
I have a bad exhaust smell in the cabin and can hear a tappet-like sound from the engine. I also noticed soot on the engine block near the turbo when I was cleaning the engine from underneath. I guess it's all pointing to the same problem.

But before I start ordering parts from half way around the world, I have a few questions:

I thought I read that the post-facelift models had a better manifold? Mine is a 2006 6 speed, manual, so I ***umed that is what people call "post-facelift". Did the problem persist with 2006 models?

Also, did anyone manage to use air tools to get the stuck bolts off? I've has great results before removing rusted-on nuts and bolts with an air powered impact driver, when using a spanner would have rounded or sheared the bolt.
 
No room to use air tools on the manifold space is tight!
My Manifold is bad on my 2008 ICTDI so the bad manifolds were used right up to the end.
The replacements for the diesel are available spurious for as little as £109 stg including gaskets on ebay or €360 from Honda in Ireland.
 
I know this thread is a bit old but I need some reassurance after completing this yesterday evening.

Everything went back together okay, a minor mistake half way through needed helicoils to fix but let's not go there! But now driving the car again the turbo definitely sounds different, more wooshy. It could be that it's now working properly with the new manifold, or that the characteristic of the manifold marks it sounds different. Or that I damaged some of the soundproofing.

However I'm paranoid that I put the gasket for the turbo oil feed and return lines in the wrong way round. It's the one with two holes and I just can't remember whether it's even possible to put it in the wrong way round (ie. with the small hole over the drain and the big hole over the feed). In the exploded view it looks like it's wider toward one end but it's not obvious.

Can anyone reassure me that either this is not possible, or that having driven 100 miles now the turbo would have self destructed already if it was going to.

Great original write up thanks, I wouldn't​ have attempted this job without it.

Cheers.
 
If you had it in the wrong way round it'd have trouble draining when you park it up.
If you start it up and it smokes like a chimney, that's your problem.
 
Ok. So if it couldn't drain it would force oil into the intake. Fine, well it's not smoking so I ***ume it's getting oil okay and it's draining okay.
Thanks for reply.
 
Yeah, it'd bleed past the bearing in the turbo cartridge.
 
Just to close this out. The noise that was concerning me was actually induction noise from the solid vertical pipe the pushes into the large pipe between the airbox and turbo. It just wasn't seated properly. It was surprising how this affected the power delivery too, which is now back to normal.

As a side effect of fixing the manifold I thought it interesting that the car is not smoking anymore under hard acceleration.

Cheers, Phil
 
Question for anyone who has done this job, Does the old heatshield fit the new manifold? The old one has 3 bolts and the new one only two, but do the holes line up enough to reuse the 3 hole version?
 
Hi

I dont know what has happend with all of the photolinks inside all of my DIY, it seems like they are gone. Anybody know how yo edit/restore them?
If you want pictures I still have them.
 
Photobucket decided to stop showing pics hotlinked from another site, You can use other photo hosting services to show them though, If you use chrome there are some extensions that you can download to fix them. How long they will work for is another story.
 
Hi Marius Sørgård Hansen

Could you please send me the photos as have a 133k Accord and need to replace my manifold.

leeholdsworth1@btinternet.com

Ta

Lee
 
SirHansen said:
Some more pic









there was actually a recall on the manifold mine went when the car was five years old and Honda replaced it


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Hello Marius, great write up :) i would be most great full if you could provide me with the links to photos. It would help a lot being able to visualize bolts and parts needing removal :) Thank you very much for your help again :) cheers
 
Hello everyone.
Can I point out how helpful these threads are for the amateur mechanic.
I have an 05 pre facelift 2.2ctdi.
The turbo blew up in a cloud of smoke last week.
It also has a leaking manifold.
I Am now just about to reassemble with cheap (£80) ebay manifold and second hand turbo (£60).
I Used the turbo removal pdf that is available on this site, I think F6HAD posted it (could be wrong)
Good guide with working! pics.
This is basically the same procedure for the manifold removal. Once complete access is easy
I Then unbolted the manifold from below with a long breaker bar and a good range of sockets (its hard to get the turn)
I realise that my use of cheap parts is not a good idea. What can I say I am a cheapskate and the car also needs a clutch. (£420 fitted)
I just checked here for the torque wrench setting for the manifold 33ft/lb (thanks)
I will keep you posted
 
SirHansen said:
Hi

I dont know what has happend with all of the photolinks inside all of my DIY, it seems like they are gone. Anybody know how yo edit/restore them?
If you want pictures I still have them.
could you send me pics please im attempting this as soon as my new manifold arrives from ebay (yes I’m risking the copy part) thanks in advance as this convinced me to attempt the job i hope my tools are up to the job i might invest in a decent cracker bar haha
neilhartshorne @msn.com
Thanks again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SirHansen said:
Hi

I dont know what has happend with all of the photolinks inside all of my DIY, it seems like they are gone. Anybody know how yo edit/restore them?
If you want pictures I still have them.
Thanks for taking the time to send the pics they will be very useful
Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Greetings! Can anyone please send me the pictures? Planning on doing the job next week and a little would be appretiated :)
 
Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures. But I can tell you a couple of things to look out for, which caused me a headache:

1. The oil feed pipe to the turbo. Be very careful not to bend it at all! Even a little bit out of shape and it will be a pain to get the mounting bolt back in the rear of the head (or block, I cant remember). In fact better still attach the feed pipe loosely before you have tightened the turbo. It's a bit hazy but I 'think' it was virtually impossible to remove the feed from the turbo with the turbo on the car.
2. If you are getting one of the cheap ebay manifolds be very careful not to strip the turbo mounting threads. The manifolds are made of cheese and I had to helicoil. Oops!
3. Drain the coolant. There are some who have the skills to do this without draining... Not me. And a face full of coolant is not what you need!
4. You'll need some sealant to put the water feed back onto the head.

That makes me sound like a right charlatan, however 20k miles down the line its all good. Took me a couple of evenings but could easily have been done in one. It makes a big different once done....obviously.

Good luck!!
 
Hi

Anybody knows how to make this tread/diy "great again"?
I want to update this diu so the pictures arw showing again. Anybody that have a good tips since the photobucket site are oreventing to post on 3rd party pages if you dont pay?

Thanks!
-Marius
 
I have some pics from when I did it. I forgot what the pic hosting medium of choice is for TA.. recommendation anyone?
 
dapper said:
1. The oil feed pipe to the turbo. Be very careful not to bend it at all! Even a little bit out of shape and it will be a pain to get the mounting bolt back in the rear of the head (or block, I cant remember). In fact better still attach the feed pipe loosely before you have tightened the turbo. It's a bit hazy but I 'think' it was virtually impossible to remove the feed from the turbo with the turbo on the car.
I replaced my manifold yesterday and this one caught me out good. ended up having to loosen the oil feed on the block as well just to be able to wiggle the turbo back onto the manifold.

I also chose to just leave the turbo laid between the block and the subframe instead of taking the turbo off the converter and pulling it out of the bay, saved me some trouble in the end because the bolts for the cat, turbo and manifold were enough of a hassle as is

Thanks @SirHansen for a great writeup even if the images are lost in time
 
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