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DIY - Replace bad/cracked manifold on 2.2 i-ctdi Accord 2007

Hi,sorry for late answer.
I had help from my brother on removing the bolts on the turbo. I was under the car and he was ontop in the enginbay to guide my socketwrench to the right location.
It was tight as hell,so you just have to take your time. (This sound like a bad p0rn0 descrition )

Hopefully you have got the turbo out now ☺
 
Hi,sorry for late answer.
I had help from my brother on removing the bolts on the turbo. I was under the car and he was ontop in the enginbay to guide my socketwrench to the right location.
It was tight as hell,so you just have to take your time. (This sound like a bad p0rn0 descrition )

Hopefully you have got the turbo out now ☺
 
Thanks ☺
Next work on the car is to clean de intake manifold, change swaybar bushings in the front and the rear. Maybe the swaybar links also. I have to take the subframe some cm down in the front to reash the bolts on the bushings. Why, Honda Why! They could have had a better solution to this. instead of 30 min to change I bet it takes 3 hours...
 
My car 2006 didn't had the manifold change by honda. I don't smell any fumes in cabin, however i do hear the noise of click when i park car after drive. Its like a metal click sounds when i am walking away from car.

Is this indication of something prudent?
 
wahabishtiaq said:
My car 2006 didn't had the manifold change by honda. I don't smell any fumes in cabin, however i do hear the noise of click when i park car after drive. Its like a metal click sounds when i am walking away from car.

Is this indication of something prudent?
Click to expand...
Driving too quickly?

Drive gently for the last 5-10 minutes of your trip and let the car cool down, it could just be from parts getting very hot and clicking as they cool and the metal contracts.

However if it happens on gentle short trips then it may be something else.
 
W
This sound of metalclicking could be anything from your exhaustsystem, warm brakes, egine etc so it is difficult to say exact what this could be. If you suspect your exhaust manifold to be bad, my thip is either to hav a buddy to hold a cloth at thr end of the exhaust tip, while you try to smell and see for smoke at the manifold area. This has to bee done when the engine is cold since the metall expands when it is getting hot, and cuses the crack to seal. The way I checked my was that i tok of the heatshield to the manifold, and as you can see on the picures I have posted, you cleary can see that there is soot all over the heatshild.
Hope this helps, sorry for bad english and late answer ☺
 
Great work Marius,

I plucked up the courage to do the job myself. Almost finished and it was tough but doable.

I have managed to avoid removing the flexible exhaust connection - just undid the two 12mm socket spring bolts - unhooked the rubber mounting and supported the weight of the rest of the exhaust system under the car.

I looked everywhere for a gasket which goes between the turbo and the convertor but did not find it - examining the faces - and having a look at the parts list it seems that there isn't a gasket there - a kind of asbestos ring instead (I hope I'm right) will find out tomorrow.

I'm at the refitting of the top heat shield stage - it is really frustrating - spent about 15 minutes fiddling about with it - no joy yet. But it did come out so it must go back in - right??

I chose to have the manifold repaired instead of getting the new part - the local silencer repairer seems to have done a good job - with welding all around - he ***ured me it will be fine (this only cost €25).

I have managed to lose a lot of coolant - when I undid the banjo type connection with the pipe from the cylinder head to the turbo (with the 17 mm spanner) - this was fiddly too and I almost got coolant in my eyes! I got some Honda coolant to top up the system - I guess the system needs to be bled... will find out how.

One question please - before I start up - is it sufficient to give some turns on the starter motor without starting the engine to get oil back into the turbo?

Thanks to all - this is really a great community.

Emile - Malta
 
Started up without any problems - running much smoother and fumes are gone! Seems like it has been a success.

Thanks again Typeaccord and Marius!
 
Good thread. Just to add those asking few turns without starting is fine for the turbo. You only really prime brand new turbos as your ones will already have oil in them from use.
 
Emile said:
Great work Marius,

I plucked up the courage to do the job myself. Almost finished and it was tough but doable.

I have managed to avoid removing the flexible exhaust connection - just undid the two 12mm socket spring bolts - unhooked the rubber mounting and supported the weight of the rest of the exhaust system under the car.

I looked everywhere for a gasket which goes between the turbo and the convertor but did not find it - examining the faces - and having a look at the parts list it seems that there isn't a gasket there - a kind of asbestos ring instead (I hope I'm right) will find out tomorrow.

I'm at the refitting of the top heat shield stage - it is really frustrating - spent about 15 minutes fiddling about with it - no joy yet. But it did come out so it must go back in - right??

I chose to have the manifold repaired instead of getting the new part - the local silencer repairer seems to have done a good job - with welding all around - he ***ured me it will be fine (this only cost €25).

I have managed to lose a lot of coolant - when I undid the banjo type connection with the pipe from the cylinder head to the turbo (with the 17 mm spanner) - this was fiddly too and I almost got coolant in my eyes! I got some Honda coolant to top up the system - I guess the system needs to be bled... will find out how.

One question please - before I start up - is it sufficient to give some turns on the starter motor without starting the engine to get oil back into the turbo?

Thanks to all - this is really a great community.

Emile - Malta
Click to expand...
Hehe, I had to laugh when I read you frustrating about the heat shield. I had the exact same problem with my heat shield. I almost throw it away :D
 
Hi, is this going to be virtually the same for a petrol engine? Is there any way to get 100% confirmation that the manifold is bad before i rip it out?
 
Pseudonym said:
Hi, is this going to be virtually the same for a petrol engine? Is there any way to get 100% confirmation that the manifold is bad before i rip it out?
Click to expand...
on the petrol models, rather than manifold being cracked, more likely that the gasket is blowing
 
I bought a manifold from ebay to replace the cracked one on my 2006 accord . Asked my local garage guy to replace it. He's having trouble removing some of the rusty bolts, lol. :D :(

I told him he should use anti rust fluid and he replied he has tried wd40 :D

What anti rust fluid should we try?
 
Haha sorry but that's the funniest thing I've ever heard.
 
F6HAD said:
Haha sorry but that's the funniest thing I've ever heard.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it is. Shall I tell to him stop? He's planning on pulling off this audacious effort tomorrow.

He is currently struggling to remove a bolt (3rd one) from the manifold and he's trying from beneath the engine but with little space to manoeuvre.
 
Impossible for me to say from here. My mechanic has had tons of these in now, and has regularly struggled with seized bolts.. But he's never needed to resort to this.

I guess he needs to do whatever he thinks is easier for him.
 
Removing the engine?? That sounds like a lot of useless work. Is the nut rounded totaly of? If it is you kan use a special tool to cut the nut itself. I know this work is in a thight spot, but taking out the engine sounds some a lot of work. When I removed the manifoil nuts, my brother helped me from above the engine to hold my sockettool i place. I also spray all of my nuts (haha) with a rust penetrating spray from Wurt. Picture of this spray is posted before. I started whit spraying all of the bolt and nuts a couple of days before I started whit the work.

Hope you able to get the nut of whitout taking the engine out
 
Thanks Fahad/SirHansen. You're right SH, the problem nut is rounded off. The spraying of the anti-rust a few days before the actual work makes sense.

I have stressed him not to remove the engine and I will take the car elsewhere. Back to square one.
 
Bring it up to us, where are you located?
 
Thanks.

I'm in Reading. Where is your mechanic? I don't mind driving somewhere reasonable as long as I get the car fixed.
 
Bradford. My mechanic does a fixed price repair on these @ £200. Needs all day and will remove and reweld the existing exhaust. You just need to supply new gaskets.
 
Tusind tak SirHansen!
What a great description of works! Hopefully I will never meet that, but will save this post anyway! :)
P.S. Car looks lovely too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Good write up. I had the dreaded smell in the ****pit on start up recently and used this write up as a general guide while doing the work.
Bit of a pain of a job due to location and access etc but not too bad.
Thanks again
 
Hi all, this write up is exactly what I need so thank you. Does it matter if the manifold isn't a genuine Honda part?
 
Hi PauloCot

I used a genuine Honda part, but I do not see any reason why you can't use a non henuine part. Just check that the boltpattern match up whit the original one. Maybe it would be better to weld the old one in this case? And remember to start soraying that antirust/lubrication on a couple of days before you start working ☺
 
My car had noe 220 000km on the meter, no fumes, and still goes like when I bought it when it had 90 000 km on it ☺
 
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