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Driveshaft compatibility CN1's

ebod

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Littleborough
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I-CTDI SPUTNIK
How doo all,
SPUTNIK is due in the shop this week, but as a prequel I had my garage check over the front suspension on Friday in case anything needs ordering.
It's been suffering from a wheel wobble and a slight knock on drive. Anyhow..suspension came back as ok...but a CV boot is torn.
Learning that the suspension is tight, yet still having wobble/knock issues, it suddenly dawned on me that I've got a rogue CV joint.
I've found a few posts here in this issue, but not sure whether one specific inner/outer joint is a known achilees heel.
Since SPUTNIK is so old and worthless, I can't go down the route of brand new joints, more likely I will just find a set of used driveshafts.
This leads me to my question....do the 6 speed facelift driveshafts directly fit in the 5 speed pre-facelift cars??
Cheers
 
According to lings they are both the same part numbers. Normally, its the passenger side that gives the most problem. But you can end up like some of us, throwing a lot of money at this problem with second hand/reconditioned shafts.
 
Cheers, there's two separate n/s shafts on eBay at the moment, a 2007 & a 2008.
Mine deffo has a knock on acceleration, so will ask my garage to give them all a good prod this week, then take it from there...
 
Its kinda difficult to tell just from looking at them. I stripped mine down and still didn't really find anything obvious. The only way to know is to swap your shafts with known good ones. You can try the Ebay ones and if they don't solve it send then back. Just check returns policy obviously! Also check your local scrap yards.
 
Just put my reg in the HOP site and just these no.s:-

PFKL600725 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., R.
PFKL601238 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., L.
PFKL602802 SHAFT ***Y., HALF

.then found a random image of a facelift CN1 ( 57 2008 yr plate ) and got exactly the same no's

...but I'm not personally sure whether these 'PFKL' no's have any true meaning. Can anyone confirm.????
 
Lings mask the parts numbers but there is a way round it.

On the page edit the url in your address bar and remove _.pfk so it says "parts_selection.php?block" instead of "parts_selection_pfk.php?block" then hit enter and you will get the proper Honda parts number.
 
...very clever :)

using that trick, the 2008 facelift 6-spd is

44305-SEF-E00 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., R.
44306-SEF-E00 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., L
44500-SEF-E00 SHAFT ***Y., HALF

..and back to re-check my 2004 5-spd its :-

44305-SEF-E00 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., R
44306-SEF-E00 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., L.
44500-SEF-E00 SHAFT ***Y., HALF

i.e THE SAME PARTS :)
 
:rolleyes:

Nippon autospares advertise on ebay regularly, £119 for the o/s £129 n/s, plus a couple of hours labour to a good mechanic to fit!!, job done no more wobbles.
 
Just bear in mind that if you also have a knock, it may be a DMF which could also cause vibrations.
 
Just bear in mind that if you also have a knock, it may be a DMF which could also cause vibrations.
Hi Faddy, clutch & DMF were done a few years back at ~200k. This isn't vibration, its deffo steering wheel wobble at 50<70 while accelerating.
My garage are working on it at the end of this week ( service/tyres/exhaust manifold) and they were going to replace a CV boot. However I'll contact them tomorrow to hold off buying the boot, and instead get them to give the shafts a check and report back, with a view to booking it in again for driveshafts.
There are new ones on ebay as spotted by myself (& pekay :) ) , but I haven't spotted the intermediate shaft yet ( though not sure whether it will need replacing )
 
Sounds like buckled rim, wheel balancing or yes the driveshaft problems.. reading from others experience, the genuine shafts is the way to go (even used) but avoid motor factor parts.
 
If they are new at £119, then personally, speaking from experience, I would avoid them. Thats what I paid and it hasn't been a success. Ian, I would suggest getting a second hand passenger side shaft first, this is normally what causes the problem. When the car is wobbling if you dip your clutch and the vibration goes away, you can be reasonably sure it's drive train related.
 
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