Engine dies when warm

[Jon_G]

Hi, hope someone here can help me with this quite severe problem. I've searched the forums, but there is very little related to the P0088 ECU error code.

My '05 (54) diesel estate started playing up a while ago (misfiring/dying at low revs, but restarting after a short wait, ECU light on plus glow plug light as well), but problem became more frequent until last week it wouldn't restart and I had to have the vehicle recovered to my driveway. Once absolutely cold, it restarts and runs apparently perfectly but after a few minutes it runs rough (cutting out and recovering approximately every half a second, accompanied by a thudding noise (which may be coming from the fuel tank area, or the passenger footwell - it's strangely hard to tell) as the engine cuts in and out. Eventually it stops completely and won't restart until cold. I ordered an OBD2 reader and, while waiting for it to be delivered, decided to replace the fuel filter as I have not bothered to do this in 4 years/60k (I know, I know!!). Anyhow, after replacing and priming the (genuine Honda) filter all seemed well and the ECU light went off, but once fully warmed up the fault returned and I was back to square one.

After a few days the OBD reader arrived and I read off the following DTC's (in listed order, 1 - 5): P0087 ("fuel rail/system pressure too low"), P0088 ("fuel rail/system pressure too high"), P1065 ("undefined"), P16A4 ("undefined") & P16A2 ("undefined"). As I couldn't be sure how old some of these codes were I deleted them to see which ones actually came back with the current problem - the only one that does keep returning every time I perform a deletion and then run the engine is P0088. When the engine warms up and cuts out I can restart it, but only if I delete the P0088 code - but then it simply starts, runs rough and then dies, putting back on the ECU light and again recording the P0088 fault code (but has never again lit up the glow plug light when running rough).

This above sequence of starting/running rough/dying is very consistent and appears to be a clear indication of a definite and specific problem - question is, what's actually causing it? My detailed knowledge of the Honda common rail diesel implementation is poor, but I have read the Wikipedia page describing the common rail system. I can only imagine that it must be either the rail pressure sensor or the rail pressure regulator, but I'm concerned that there may be a subtle alternative fault that may also cause the P0088 error code to arise - does anyone have any experience of this?

I've found a used fuel rail, complete with sensor, advertised for sale at a breakers yard. I enquied about the availability of the rail pressure regulator and they tell me that this is combined with the sensor - is this correct?

Any suggestions on all the above will be gratefully received.

Jon

 

[F6HAD]

Hi Jon, the P1065 and P0088 are related and are really down to your own poor servicing regime (I notice you do your own servicing).

I would suggest that you've either fitted the diesel filter incorrectly and/or not bled it correctly. Did you use a genuine Honda filter? if not, please replace with a genuine item, these cars are very fussy and tend only to like genuine Honda fuel filters.

Just check your work over a few times, ensure the pipe routing is correct and you haven't got a kink in the pipework somewhere.

If it persists, my next bet would be the EGR valve. When these stick or are slow to open/close, they alter the fuellling duty cycle and coupled with either a blockage in the fuel line or bottleneck of some sort, will cause all sorts of issues.

The other two errors you had are related to wheel speed sensors, maybe when you did the caliper you caused an issue with the ABS sensor.

Try checking the fuel filter first and then take it from there.

 

[F6HAD]

Interesting

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/bugs-faults-irritations/47730-2-2-cdti-problems.html

 

[Jon_G]

Hi Fahad, thanks for the very speedy reply.

Other than not changing the fuel filter regularly (which I accept is maybe an indication of laziness on my part!) the car has been otherwise serviced regularly and thoughly using the recommended replacement parts and fluids. I would have expected filter problems to initially (at least) flag a single P0087 low fuel pressure DTC (one of which I did read, but believe it to have been stored from last winter when I did get a MIL on the coldest morning ever recorded in my area)?

As it turns out, it was actually your guidance elsewhere on this website that I located and followed when replacing the fuel filter, which I bought from a Honda dealer (part number matched that in your pictures, as did the installed orientation). I repeatedly primed until the bulb when hard, then bled from the top 10mm nut and re-primed at least 3 times, none of the pipes were kinked or stretched before or after this job. However, I will check as you suggest.


I have previously read many issues - both here and on the Civic website - relating to EGR problems, but none seem to report such a severe failure as I am experiencing. I would have expected that (whatever the cause) excess pressure in the fuel rail should be immediately relieved (dumped to the fuel tank?) via the pressure regulator?

Thanks for the link to the problem described on the Civic website. I don't think my car has a DPF, but I will check.

Do you know if the rail pressure sensor and rail pressure regulator are actually combined in one unit?

Jon

 

[F6HAD]

Jon your car doesn't have a DPF, I didn't read the thread properly just googled for the error and that came up.. Not sure if the poster even fixed it.

I don't know if the sensor and regulator are a single unit to be honest and I've never seen the P0088 error yet although P1065 is very common and is either fuel filter or EGR valve normally.

 

[CJM]

In respect of the P0088 code,

You need to run a couple of tests using the HDS ( which you may need to take to either a Honda specialist or dealer for ) . the two tests are The Fuel rail pressure test and the fuel pressure control valve test, the advice if either these fail seems to be " replace the fuel pump ".

It is also worth checking before hand for a loose or bad connection on the fuel rail pressure sensor.

If you can run the car and see if any other fault codes appear and disappear then this may give some further clues, as of course as your aware, something else could be to blame to cause the effect that then creates the situation for the P0088 code to be reported.

In respect of the P16A4 and P16A2 codes that were undefined, both seem to relate to an ECM internal circuit malfunction. As they have both disappeared since being cleared, maybe caused by a temporary loss of communication with something.

From what you are describing though it sounds like it is something that is more effected by the temperature so could well be an electrical connection.

When the car is running does it have power or does it go straight into limp mode ?

Personally I think it would be worth taking into a dealer/specialist and running the HDS and checking a few things and then going from the diagnostics there, if you want to DIY.

 

[Jon_G]

Hi CJM,

I've googled "HDS", but I'm not sure what this is ...is it Honda Diagnostic System? Currently I would struggle to get the vehicle to a dealer as it only runs for about 10 minutes. I ***ume that the only way a faulty fuel pump might cause excess rail pressure is if the pressure regulator is internal to it?

I'll certainly check for bad electrical connections, but I've had to suspend my investigations due to the weather as I don't have a garage and we're up at 1100 feet - the snow is currently drifting up around the radiator grill (and we're also suffering from frozen plumbing in the house, which trumps my car problems!).

I only ever get the P0088 code, the others mentioned appear to have been historic (possibly from before I owned it?). When the car is absolutely cold, it runs perfectly - starts on the button, ticks over smoothly and pulls well through all the gears with apparently full power (actually seems to be same as it's always been), certainly no limp mode. However, as soon as the temp guage goes over about third of the scale, it starts cutting out and - eventually - the MIL illuminates and it does go into limp mode (but isn't really driveable anyway). Sometimes it stops dead, but won't restart unless the DTC is deleted, it will then restart but still runs very badly. I've always believed that - to some extent, at least - prior to the engine reaching operating temperature the ECU doesn't rely upon sensor readings and instead uses default values to keep things running and once warmed up then runs in "closed loop" as available info from the warmed up sensors becomes accurate. I have no idea whether this is the case with this engine, though, but may also explain why it seems OK when cold? This might then suggest a sensor fault, perhaps the fuel rail pressure sensor?

Eventually, I may have to admit defeat and throw myself to the mercy of the motor trade (probably a Honda dealer) as you suggest, but I'm still tempted to buy a secondhand fuel rail compete with sensor and see if that sorts the problem out. I need to check how easy it is to swop the fuel rail over first - any ideas?

 

[CJM]

Hi CJM,

I've googled "HDS", but I'm not sure what this is ...is it Honda Diagnostic System? Currently I would struggle to get the vehicle to a dealer as it only runs for about 10 minutes. I ***ume that the only way a faulty fuel pump might cause excess rail pressure is if the pressure regulator is internal to it?

I'll certainly check for bad electrical connections, but I've had to suspend my investigations due to the weather as I don't have a garage and we're up at 1100 feet - the snow is currently drifting up around the radiator grill (and we're also suffering from frozen plumbing in the house, which trumps my car problems!).

I only ever get the P0088 code, the others mentioned appear to have been historic (possibly from before I owned it?). When the car is absolutely cold, it runs perfectly - starts on the button, ticks over smoothly and pulls well through all the gears with apparently full power (actually seems to be same as it's always been), certainly no limp mode. However, as soon as the temp guage goes over about third of the scale, it starts cutting out and - eventually - the MIL illuminates and it does go into limp mode (but isn't really driveable anyway). Sometimes it stops dead, but won't restart unless the DTC is deleted, it will then restart but still runs very badly. I've always believed that - to some extent, at least - prior to the engine reaching operating temperature the ECU doesn't rely upon sensor readings and instead uses default values to keep things running and once warmed up then runs in "closed loop" as available info from the warmed up sensors becomes accurate. I have no idea whether this is the case with this engine, though, but may also explain why it seems OK when cold? This might then suggest a sensor fault, perhaps the fuel rail pressure sensor?

Eventually, I may have to admit defeat and throw myself to the mercy of the motor trade (probably a Honda dealer) as you suggest, but I'm still tempted to buy a secondhand fuel rail compete with sensor and see if that sorts the problem out. I need to check how easy it is to swop the fuel rail over first - any ideas?

Yes HDS is Honda Diagnostics System, which has set tests that can be conducted.
It is interesting why it only seems to happen once warmed up though which does lean more towards a loose connection and expansion etc. incidentally there are two coolant temp sensors and two air/fuel temp sensors, these are located in the MAF sensor and the MAP sensor, but i would imagine these would throw up another code if they were failing enough to report extreme temperatures and thus flood or starve the engine.

There is a link to a thread here on the fuel rail pressure sensor that may or may not be of use

wont start and as for taking the fuel rail off, i've done it when taking the inlet manifold off. I undid the pipework from the rail to the injectors, leaving the injectors in. It is reasonably straight forward job, just take your time on it. I suppose it depends on how much you can pick one up secondhand for and whether it is worth a punt.

If you have a code reader that does real time, then have it on whilst the engine is warming up and check whether any other codes are thrown up temporarily, however P0088 is fairly specific in what can cause it.

Did you have any other symptoms before this started to become a real problem?

 

[Jon_G]

I've been out this morning and run the car until it warmed up, but didn't actually take it out for a drive. Maybe slightly different symptons, in that it did run rough a couple of times while still cold but certainly got a lot worse when warm (which takes a while when it's not being driven) - biggest difference was no MIL illumination and code reader showed no stored codes. First thing I did next was prime and vent the fuel filter repeatedly to completely eliminate this from the equation. I then unplugged the fuel rail pressure sensor and checked the connection terminals - all clean looking (also did same to glow plug & injector connections) and I also shook connectors and wiring while engine was running and playing up but this made no difference. I also disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and attempted to start the engine, but it wouldn't start and threw up a DTC (I think it was P0193?) which cleared OK when plug put back onto sensor - I'm thinking that this indicated that the sensor is actually working (at least to some extent). Interestingly, when the engine does run rough (constantly cutting out and recovering within about half a second repeatedly) the flexible fuel rail pressure relief return pipe twitches in sync quite powerfully which I think causes the thudding noise mentioned in my original post - this maybe suggests that excess pressure is being delivered to the rail by the high pressure pump and then having to be relieved by the valve on the LH end (as you look at it) of the fuel rail and then eventually the sensor on the RH end informs the ECU and throws up the P0088 DTC? Speculation, I know, and not really good news if I do have to replace the pump!!!

All looks OK on the reader in real time and car ran perfectly for years before the current problem. If I can get a cheap-ish secondhand fuel rail complete with pressure sensor and relieve valve from a breakers then I think I will - as you suggest - take a punt.

Thanks again for your input. Any further input will continue to be gratefully received.

Jon

 

[Terry124]

John
I read a publication called Car Mechanics, within the magazine there are help sections which encourage trade and DIY people to contact them with symptoms.
These are ***essed and responded to my car mechanics who specialise in diagnosing faults.

email - tunemycar@btconnect.com

No promises but perhaps they have experienced this type of fault before and could provide some level of support

 

[CJM]

It certain does sound strange and appears to be linked to the temperature.

One thing to try is disconnect the MAF sensor, it should run like a bag of spanners and stall or possibly not even start, the reason I say this is it will give a good indication as to whether the MAF sensor is doing anything and I suspect if any other sensor was involved, then the MAF would be high on the list. Please note however that I am expecting it to be working, it is just worth ruling out and you can reset the code that it throws up afterwards.

The one thing you haven't mentioned and is worth a try as, it won't cost you anything is disconnecting the negative lead on the battery for at least 20 minutes, yes you are going to have to reset a few things afterwards, for good measure after the 20 minutes pull the ECU fuse for a couple of minutes, it is located in the fuse box under the hood, where I am going here is to reset the ECU.
The thought process is that as the fuel filter hasn't been replaced for some time the ECU has been compensating for the restricted filter, thus increasing fuel pressures to keep it going. Now that the filter has been replaced, fuel is flowing much more readily and therefore whereas the ECU is maybe still operating in tight parameters and over pressurising the system.

It maybe a bit of a long shot as the ECU is always meant to be learning, but if the battery has not been disconnected it could be expecting conditions to be the same and then not being able to run for long enough to re-learn and adjust for the new fuel rates.

 

[CJM]

I've been out this morning and run the car until it warmed up, but didn't actually take it out for a drive. Maybe slightly different symptons, in that it did run rough a couple of times while still cold but certainly got a lot worse when warm (which takes a while when it's not being driven) - biggest difference was no MIL illumination and code reader showed no stored codes. First thing I did next was prime and vent the fuel filter repeatedly to completely eliminate this from the equation. I then unplugged the fuel rail pressure sensor and checked the connection terminals - all clean looking (also did same to glow plug & injector connections) and I also shook connectors and wiring while engine was running and playing up but this made no difference. I also disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and attempted to start the engine, but it wouldn't start and threw up a DTC (I think it was P0193?) which cleared OK when plug put back onto sensor - I'm thinking that this indicated that the sensor is actually working (at least to some extent). Interestingly, when the engine does run rough (constantly cutting out and recovering within about half a second repeatedly) the flexible fuel rail pressure relief return pipe twitches in sync quite powerfully which I think causes the thudding noise mentioned in my original post - this maybe suggests that excess pressure is being delivered to the rail by the high pressure pump and then having to be relieved by the valve on the LH end (as you look at it) of the fuel rail and then eventually the sensor on the RH end informs the ECU and throws up the P0088 DTC? Speculation, I know, and not really good news if I do have to replace the pump!!!

All looks OK on the reader in real time and car ran perfectly for years before the current problem. If I can get a cheap-ish secondhand fuel rail complete with pressure sensor and relieve valve from a breakers then I think I will - as you suggest - take a punt.

Thanks again for your input. Any further input will continue to be gratefully received.

Jon

Jon,

Any update ? did you try resetting the ECU etc?

 

[Jon_G]

Hi Carl, sorry for my delayed reply (other issues have taken my time over the last week or so). It's lucky I have the use of another car, even if it is a Toyota MR2.

I like the suggestion, but just after the problem first struck, and before I'd bought the code reader, I disconnected the battery for some time (over 30 mins) in an attempt to reset the ECU (not sure what I'd gain by also removing the fuse?), but it made no noticeable difference.

I think it's pretty obvious that excess fuel pressure in the fuel rail is being experienced - either because the diesel pump is delivering too much pressure because it's internal regulator is faulty (it is also connected to the pressure relief line that runs back to the tank, so there must be a relieving regulator present) or the pressure regulator on the drivers side end of the fuel rail is faulty. I can think of nothing else that would cause the problem I have with the sensor often giving the P0088 code and the pressure relief line back to the tank 'pulsing' as it does. So, my actions will be...
1 - fit the secondhand fuel rail (complete with pressure sensor and relieve valve) that I've ordered. This ties up nicely with the link you posted a while ago where the guy explained what his problem had been (albeit not in very clear terms).

2 - if the above fails to correct the problem I'll buy and fit a secondhand diesel pump.

3 - if neither of the above work then I'll have to take the car to Honda!

I will, of course, come back and let you know how things work out.

Thanks,
Jon

 

[CJM]

Hi Carl, sorry for my delayed reply (other issues have taken my time over the last week or so). It's lucky I have the use of another car, even if it is a Toyota MR2.

I like the suggestion, but just after the problem first struck, and before I'd bought the code reader, I disconnected the battery for some time (over 30 mins) in an attempt to reset the ECU (not sure what I'd gain by also removing the fuse?), but it made no noticeable difference.

I think it's pretty obvious that excess fuel pressure in the fuel rail is being experienced - either because the diesel pump is delivering too much pressure because it's internal regulator is faulty (it is also connected to the pressure relief line that runs back to the tank, so there must be a relieving regulator present) or the pressure regulator on the drivers side end of the fuel rail is faulty. I can think of nothing else that would cause the problem I have with the sensor often giving the P0088 code and the pressure relief line back to the tank 'pulsing' as it does. So, my actions will be...
1 - fit the secondhand fuel rail (complete with pressure sensor and relieve valve) that I've ordered. This ties up nicely with the link you posted a while ago where the guy explained what his problem had been (albeit not in very clear terms).

2 - if the above fails to correct the problem I'll buy and fit a secondhand diesel pump.

3 - if neither of the above work then I'll have to take the car to Honda!

I will, of course, come back and let you know how things work out.

Thanks,
Jon

Well at least it should rule out a confused ECU, it was a bit of a long shot, but worth ruling out all the same.

Hopefully the SH fuel rail will solve the problem, it does look the most likely in all honesty and has been your gut feeling for a while.

 

[CJM]

Hi Carl, sorry for my delayed reply (other issues have taken my time over the last week or so). It's lucky I have the use of another car, even if it is a Toyota MR2.

I like the suggestion, but just after the problem first struck, and before I'd bought the code reader, I disconnected the battery for some time (over 30 mins) in an attempt to reset the ECU (not sure what I'd gain by also removing the fuse?), but it made no noticeable difference.

I think it's pretty obvious that excess fuel pressure in the fuel rail is being experienced - either because the diesel pump is delivering too much pressure because it's internal regulator is faulty (it is also connected to the pressure relief line that runs back to the tank, so there must be a relieving regulator present) or the pressure regulator on the drivers side end of the fuel rail is faulty. I can think of nothing else that would cause the problem I have with the sensor often giving the P0088 code and the pressure relief line back to the tank 'pulsing' as it does. So, my actions will be...
1 - fit the secondhand fuel rail (complete with pressure sensor and relieve valve) that I've ordered. This ties up nicely with the link you posted a while ago where the guy explained what his problem had been (albeit not in very clear terms).

2 - if the above fails to correct the problem I'll buy and fit a secondhand diesel pump.

3 - if neither of the above work then I'll have to take the car to Honda!

I will, of course, come back and let you know how things work out.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon,

Have you any news / update on the issue ?

 

[Jon_G]

Hi Carl

I got a fuel rail (complete with fitted pressure sensor and pressure regulator) from a wrecked '07 Accord at a breakers for £70. It was a fairly easy fit, but I did have to retighten an injector connection a few times until it stopped weeping. At first, it appeared to have been a complete success with all of the fault symptoms gone, but after a few days it started to misfire a bit and got worse until it would cut out and give the P0088 DTC again. However, when cleared, the car could be driven for quite a distance before misfiring again. Slowly, this improved but obvously still indicated a remaining problem.

I therefore decided to consider my second step - replacement of the high pressure diesel pump. However, I didn't want to splash out the necessary £250 or so for the one off the same wrecked Accord at the breakers before thinking the problem through, as I reckoned that there can't be too much wrong with a pump that delivers too much pressure! Internet investigations relating to Bosch common rail diesel pumps suggest that an internal pressure regulator valve (M-PROP valve) can get 'sticky' and cause output pressures to become too high or too low and not properly under the control of the ECU. The fuel tank was conveniently low (probably less than 10 litres) so I put in a full can of BG244 cleaner (which would normally treat 60 litres) and drove the car around until the tank was nearly empty. After refuelling, I've now covered almost 500 miles without any misfiring, hesitancy, cutting out or any problems whatsoever. This morning I put it through a necessary MoT test and it passed with almost flying colours (other than advisories on rear tyres and chipped windscreen), in particular the emission opacity (l/m) reading was only 0.13 (the test limit is 3.00). I've never really considered fuel additives as worthwhile, but - given the many positive reviews of BG244 - decided it was worth the £22 to see if it would unstick the pump regulator, which it seems to have done. I'd be happier if I'd actually found a positive fault and replaced the offending part, but for now I'll settle for a working car! Maybe this apparent repair will prove to be temporary and I'll have to then replace the fuel pump as I originally intended? However, secondhand ones from crashed vehicles appear to be plentiful and usually less than £300 on eBay so it's not too daunting to buy, and the fitting looks pretty simple. But it would be nearly £2000 +VAT if I had to buy a new pump from Honda.

Many thanks for your continuing interest. I'll provide an update if things do go wrong and I have to take further action.

I'm not sure I would buy another vehicle with a common rail diesel engine (and certainly not one with a DPF). New replacement parts are stupidly expensive, and even credible secondhand parts cost a fair bit (i.e. getting on for what you'd probably pay for the equivalent new parts on a petrol engined vehicle). Before the Accord I had a petrol Vectra - it certainly had the odd faults, but when it needed one a replacement new (genuine Siemens) cam position sensor was only £15 on eBay. It can be quite hard to diagnose CR diesel problems as it seems that most mechanics don't really have a clue how the common rail system actually works - I know quite a few decent (but amateur) mechanics from my stock car racing days, but they couldn't provide much help. But I would buy another Accord.

Jon

 

[CJM]

Hi Carl

I got a fuel rail (complete with fitted pressure sensor and pressure regulator) from a wrecked '07 Accord at a breakers for £70. It was a fairly easy fit, but I did have to retighten an injector connection a few times until it stopped weeping. At first, it appeared to have been a complete success with all of the fault symptoms gone, but after a few days it started to misfire a bit and got worse until it would cut out and give the P0088 DTC again. However, when cleared, the car could be driven for quite a distance before misfiring again. Slowly, this improved but obvously still indicated a remaining problem.

I therefore decided to consider my second step - replacement of the high pressure diesel pump. However, I didn't want to splash out the necessary £250 or so for the one off the same wrecked Accord at the breakers before thinking the problem through, as I reckoned that there can't be too much wrong with a pump that delivers too much pressure! Internet investigations relating to Bosch common rail diesel pumps suggest that an internal pressure regulator valve (M-PROP valve) can get 'sticky' and cause output pressures to become too high or too low and not properly under the control of the ECU. The fuel tank was conveniently low (probably less than 10 litres) so I put in a full can of BG244 cleaner (which would normally treat 60 litres) and drove the car around until the tank was nearly empty. After refuelling, I've now covered almost 500 miles without any misfiring, hesitancy, cutting out or any problems whatsoever. This morning I put it through a necessary MoT test and it passed with almost flying colours (other than advisories on rear tyres and chipped windscreen), in particular the emission opacity (l/m) reading was only 0.13 (the test limit is 3.00). I've never really considered fuel additives as worthwhile, but - given the many positive reviews of BG244 - decided it was worth the £22 to see if it would unstick the pump regulator, which it seems to have done. I'd be happier if I'd actually found a positive fault and replaced the offending part, but for now I'll settle for a working car! Maybe this apparent repair will prove to be temporary and I'll have to then replace the fuel pump as I originally intended? However, secondhand ones from crashed vehicles appear to be plentiful and usually less than £300 on eBay so it's not too daunting to buy, and the fitting looks pretty simple. But it would be nearly £2000 +VAT if I had to buy a new pump from Honda.

Many thanks for your continuing interest. I'll provide an update if things do go wrong and I have to take further action.

I'm not sure I would buy another vehicle with a common rail diesel engine (and certainly not one with a DPF). New replacement parts are stupidly expensive, and even credible secondhand parts cost a fair bit (i.e. getting on for what you'd probably pay for the equivalent new parts on a petrol engined vehicle). Before the Accord I had a petrol Vectra - it certainly had the odd faults, but when it needed one a replacement new (genuine Siemens) cam position sensor was only £15 on eBay. It can be quite hard to diagnose CR diesel problems as it seems that most mechanics don't really have a clue how the common rail system actually works - I know quite a few decent (but amateur) mechanics from my stock car racing days, but they couldn't provide much help. But I would buy another Accord.

Jon

Sounds very promising.

My gut on this is that it was a bit of both, I don't think you would have seen such a dramatic improvement if it was just the internal pressure valve in the pump, even though it was quite short lived.

Hopefully the BG 244 has done the trick, although I imagine it might need a couple of goes, but I suspect that the unhindered mileage you have done so far is quite a record for sometime.

Have you read the 2 stroke oil thread on here, the purpose being to lubricate the pump etc, I've run about 4 tanks so far and the engine is noticeably quieter, certainly on cold starts, maybe worth considering on a preventative measure?

Thanks for the update I think it will help a few members and is really appreciated.

Fingers crossed that it is now a past problem and many more trouble free miles await you

Carl

 

[F6HAD]

Magic stuff that BG244 isn't it B)

 

[Jon_G]

Nearly 1,100 miles now and no cutting out, dying or misfiring... I'm going to consider it fixed!

Thanks to all for advice given.

Jon

 

[CJM]

Nearly 1,100 miles now and no cutting out, dying or misfiring... I'm going to consider it fixed!

Thanks to all for advice given.

Jon

That's excellent news,

Thanks for updating us, nice to see some positive physical results from BG 244.