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engine light and loss of power

H

hale-pope

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Location
United Kingdom
Car
10 i-dtec tourer ex
Hi all,

Just had a query from an issue that has come about this morning in my 2010 idtec auto. I have done a 2 hour journey. After 45mins the engine management light came on. The engine was performing faultlessly, An hour after that i noted a severe drop in power, like the turbo was not kicking in, for example. I would be coming off a roundabout and whilst i could get up to speed it would take ages.
I pulled over - turned the engine off for 30 secs. Upon restart the light is still on but the engine is back to being faultless. I was only 5 mins from my destination at that point so I will know more later but does this behaviours suggest anything to anyone?

Many thanks.
 
Getting the stored ECU Diagnostic Trouble Code read using an OBD2 reader should indicate the problem. Guessing would be meaningless, really.

Do you have a reader or access to one? You could order a cheap ELM327 (if you have an Android phone and get the Torque app) or U480 from eBay?
 
Need to read the codes and take out the guesswork.
 
Thanks John - I am not on android and yes to both you and F^HAD I will be speaking to the garage as it is booked in for a headlamp change. Cheers.
 
Most common issue on these is the DPF but that also tends to throw the DPF light up. The other issue i see a lot of is the turbo actuator becoming stuck due to turbo body being stuck.

I offer a diagnostic service if you fancy booking it in. Drop me a line.
 
Jack - the eml is a right pain as seemingly whenever it comes on it triggers a limp mode and you have to turn off the engine to get it out of limp mode. Even when the light is already on, the issue may trigger other issues which again cause the car to go in to limp mode. I doubt all eml triggering issues cause limp mode but I don't know for sure.,
My eml was because an exhaust gas temp sensor was knackered and kept working then not working and this was triggering limp mode. The dpf light eventually came on but this was after about 20k miles so not wholly surprising. When the EGT was replaced I had the dpf cleaned. All was fine.
Recently the light has been on again and the issue is the turbo boost valve solenoid and I need to replace that. Again, it's intermittent. The EGT was £400, the valve £220. Some people automatically point to the DPF as the source of all problems (and evil!) and there are enough anecdotes on this website and other places to back up thoughts that the dpf (and not just Honda) is a very ill thought out and poorly performing piece of kit but the first thing you should do is get a diagnostic check by a system that can pin point the actual issue, not the ususl generic readers that can only round down the issue rather than pin point it. When the problem has been pin pointed you can then decide what to do.
 
I pressed reply by mistake!
Whatever the problem is there will be those that say it was caused by the dpf and you must take it out. I'd think very carefully before doing that.
 
Thanks guys. I'm thinking its turbo related due to boost seeming not to come on at all and running like an NA car. I think I'll bite the bullet and take it to Honda.

Ben, did they diagnose correctly straight away?
 
'Those' that point to the dpf do it for very good reason. Your egt sensor is failing due to excessive heat and soot from the dpf, and the turbo solenoid is failing due to soot from the dpf blocking the vanes.

I've posted pics showing the evidence in the past. You can throw all the parts at it you want, but you're not treating the root cause.
 
The EGT failed as it had been compromised and was mangled (nothing to do with soot).
The valve I do not know, other than my local garage sells one a year.
As I said, there are those that always point to the dpf BUT there is enough anecdotal evidence ........ No need to be defensive.
 
It's the cumulative soot getting into those parts that can do damage before any light comes on. It can be cleaned (purged) but this doesn't always work.
 
Yes I have no need to be defensive and i was merely offering an explanation in response to your comment. Had you explained in your first post that your egt failed because it had been tampered with then I wouldn't have suggested it was due to heat.

However I have 10-12 spare egt sensors sat in our workshop off various modern dpf cars because we see egt failures very regularly. And most people will do everything to try and treat the symptom rather than the cause.

The dpf light is normally triggered when the pressure differential sensor senses a problem so the egt itself will only ever trigger an engine warning light.
 
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