Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Engine management light

H

Hot Fuzz

TAF Member
Messages
929
Reaction score
0
Location
North Somerset
Car
Audi A6 at the mo!!
Guy's today the engine mangement light came on and stays on. My wife was driving it at the time and has covered about 25 miles with it on, I've not driven it myself and I am hesitant to do so due to the warnings in the owners manual. She tells me the car is driving normally doesn't lose power doesn't hesitate etc etc. Car has done 91k and never missed a beat always serviced by Honda with Honda parts. Any ideas what the most likely cause is what are the common reason for the light to come on but no change in performance etc etc.

Typical long weekend and the car's gone wrong :(
 
Hard to say Paul mate without having the ECU scanned. Could be anything at all. Personally, I wouldnt drive it too much for the moment until its scanned. In most cases, a normal scanner may be able to read off the fault code or a local indepenadant garage could do it.
 
Like Saj said get the code read to find out more, as its not gone into limp home mode its a non critical issue. Therefore I would not worry too much but needs sorting of course.
 
Paul,

As the others have said, really need the code and as Andy has pointed out if it is not going into limp mode then it is probably not that serious, obviously needs fixing though.

I recall when doing the test on the IMRC solenoid by disconnecting it, the MIL light would come on but not go into limp mode, but you would also get more smoke on acceleration but no hesitation, in fact apart from low mpg and black smoke the car tends to drive pretty well! , whereas things like the MAF and MAP sensors will put it in limp mode.

Of course it could be a temporary code that will clear after 3 - 5 clean starts, like what can happen with the fuel filter.

Is there anyone nearby that can get the code for you without charging £80? Don't know whether your allowed or not but maybe the guys in the garage at work might be able to plug in and get the code.

Have you been under the bonnet recently or had any work done where a Vac line could have been knocked ?
 
car has been checked and two faults came up EGR valve is not functioning needs cleaning, and Frequency solenoid (IMRC valve) which is £105 +vat :eek: I'll be in touch with HH for this thanks to CJ
 
Paul, the EGR is probably fine - it's the IMRC causing both issues in my opinion.
 
I agree with Fahad,

When I cleaned the EGR a little while after replacing the IMRC solenoid, it was really mucked up certainly for a 40k+ mile car. which I suspect was caused by the IMRC solenoid issue.
 
I'll clean the EGR first wont really cost me anything and might sort the problem the light is still coming on and off. If I clean the EGR and the IMRC is fine will the light go out premenantly or will it need another £40 spending on a diagnostic check
 
When I disconnected my IMRC it brought up the light straight away. Plugging it back in left the light on. It may clear after a fair few starts of the engine but Faddy cleared it with his generic code reader and off it went. Why not buy you own reader. They'll be less then £40.
 
Have to say owning your own reader is up there with a decent pressure tester... Will pay gpr itself in one, maybe two uses!
 
Decent pressure tester? What would I use one of them for? Tyres or boilers :)
 
Guys what type of reader do you have I guess e bay is the place to go once the codes are read I guess it's just a number > Where do you find out what the number means.
 
Try pm'ing Faddy. I think Elite had a couple at a good price. I've got a little application on my phone which tells me the codes otherwise just google them.
 
My tester does both :lol:

My reader is a USB thing that goes into my laptop, 1p plus £15 postage, there is free software but it ain't very good, I have thd paid version of pros and, who also do packages.

I have a Bluetooth reader which I have never managed to get my laptop to talk too... In fact I am not sure which car I left it plugged into :s
 
Well Thnaks to Dan (gator) for his ***istance today the EGR and ***ociated componants were pretty bad very coked up with black sooty oily gunge Dan kindley took some photos so I'll ask him to post them up here the light is engine light is still on and off but next will be the IMRC me thinks.
Next thing will be to remove the inlet manifold and clean that properly but that will take a bit longer. Has anyone done this if so how did you get on.
 
Paul is this not in the same thread by carl.
no ill tell you wear it is its in diesle faults under hesitation
 
Cheers brett just read this thread with interest, funnt thing is I have no hesitation or other running problems makes me wonder if I need to spen £100+ on the the frequency solenoid, having said that it does seem to be an intermittant fault. :(
 
Hot Fuzz said:
Cheers brett just read this thread with interest, funnt thing is I have no hesitation or other running problems makes me wonder if I need to spen £100+ on the the frequency solenoid, having said that it does seem to be an intermittant fault. :(
Click to expand...
No probs Paul but as you said does it need Changing.To be honest this hesitation only seems to be on facelift.Also its more noticeable with a remap because of the extra power.
 
Paul,

did they actual give you the code for the IMRC solenoid fault and was it the solenoid and not the valve.

Generally the IMRC solenoid issue did cause jerkiness etc, however this was because I suspect it was operating the valve, not in relation to it's instructions from the ECU but rather sporadically, incidentally in most cases it did not throw up a code or MIL light.
I think it is just when it fails beyond tolerances that it throws the code and the MIL light. If the solenoid is not working at all then it is not adjusting the IMRC solenoid at all and would probably not jerk or hesitate, which of course when you unplug it was the reason why in many cases the problem went away.

See how it is after you have cleaned the EGR and IMRC valve as they will be the most effected.

It may take a few goes before the light clears, if they don't then it's probably the IMRC solenoid, but the actual code to confirm, would be useful in all honesty.
 
Carl TBH I don't think they gave me the code but said it was the Frequency solenoid part No 36190-RBD-E01 and said it was working 50% of the time ?? the EGR and IMRC have now been cleaned as best as I could and they were pretty bad, I've just order some BG244 as well from power enhancer, hopefully this will get rid of some more of the crap that I couldn't reach. My dilema is spending £122 on a part I might not need there has been no change in performance at all.

What I really want to do is take off the entire inlet manifold this was particularly bad but I could only clean the first 2 or 3 inches I didn't want any crap falling into the cylinders.
 
Paul mate you could try to get one from a scrappy on the cheap to see if its the problem.
 
Hot Fuzz said:
Carl TBH I don't think they gave me the code but said it was the Frequency solenoid part No 36190-RBD-E01 and said it was working 50% of the time ?? the EGR and IMRC have now been cleaned as best as I could and they were pretty bad, I've just order some BG244 as well from power enhancer, hopefully this will get rid of some more of the crap that I couldn't reach. My dilema is spending £122 on a part I might not need there has been no change in performance at all.

What I really want to do is take off the entire inlet manifold this was particularly bad but I could only clean the first 2 or 3 inches I didn't want any crap falling into the cylinders.
Click to expand...


in respect of the inlet manifold, I can only refer to the face-lift, but i used a bike spoke to pull out the muck from the channels as best I could. I'd avoid taking it off unless really necessary, or certainly do it on a different day, main thing to ensure is that the EGR valve seat is clean and the IMRC valve moves smoothly, then of course ensure passageways are clear.

In respect of the IMRC solenoid, don't know whether they were just going off the TSB for it, as Adam said in the other thread that you have read, there is an intermittent fault causing a Vac Leak, which effects the IMRC valve, which then effects the ratio's at lower engine speeds, I suspect that certainly in my case, this was causing a richer fueling causing the excess soot.

As Brett has suggested see if you can source one from a scrappers, although don't chuck much at it just in case it is just as bad, the design was modified later to solve the vac leak issue.
 
My engine warning light just came on this morning and car is in limp mode. I do have the USB cable but not the software to read fault codes. Any suggestions please?


Dan Robinson said:
My tester does both :lol:

My reader is a USB thing that goes into my laptop, 1p plus £15 postage, there is free software but it ain't very good, I have thd paid version of pros and, who also do packages.

I have a Bluetooth reader which I have never managed to get my laptop to talk too... In fact I am not sure which car I left it plugged into :s
Click to expand...
 
I have proScan but there are plenty out there.
 
Emile said:
Thanks Dan. Let's hope I'm luck with the fault code!
Click to expand...

I didn't have to get the fault code after all!! I've had a look at the manual and was directed to the bleed fuel page... It worked! Pumped rubber bulb until hard, started the engine - off the engine light went! And limp mode was deactivated!

Thanks for your help.
 
Great news bud. Thanks for coming back with the solution.
 
Emile said:
I didn't have to get the fault code after all!! I've had a look at the manual and was directed to the bleed fuel page... It worked! Pumped rubber bulb until hard, started the engine - off the engine light went! And limp mode was deactivated!

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Emil,

Check through your records to see when the fuel filter was last done.

It could be just a blip but it could be an early warning of something.

The code will probably be stored anyway so still worth getting it, just so you know what it was
 
CJM said:
Emil,

Check through your records to see when the fuel filter was last done.

It could be just a blip but it could be an early warning of something.

The code will probably be stored anyway so still worth getting it, just so you know what it was
Click to expand...

Hi,

Thanks for the tip - I will - the car is going to the Honda garage for an ABS sensor replacement on the 28th June - I'll ask them to check fault codes too. If I remember correctly, it was on the parts list at the last service (that was about 8 months ago though).

I've had a look at the filter - it says Bosch on the outside - could it still be a genuine honda? I've had the car serviced at the Honda dealer.

Thanks a lot,

Emile
 
The geniine filter is a Bosch filter but some dealers will charge for it but not actually replace it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top