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Engine needed

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teo_359

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Location
Ireland
Car
honda accord 2.2
Hi guys
My 7th gen Accord CTDI seems running out of steam .It is still going but the pressure of the cylinders is too low especially on 3rd one.Quite a lot of blow-by.I bought it 2 years ago from a dodgy dealer and obviously (now) he filled it with all kind of s**t for a quick sale.So I was trying to find a good re-manufactured one .Any ideas?
 
What do you mean by low pressure and blow by? You've done a cylinder compression test or your injectors are leaking?

Do you have any diagnostic errors?
 
Hi Fahad
I hoped you would respond to this topic. There isn't any fault from OBD .No smoking when idling . Can't say if there isn't any ' little smoking' under hard acceleration but nothing obvious or like puffing black smoke I have seen on other cars when pushed hard.I have noticed that when I park it on a slight downhill only first gear can hold it and that is only if it is not very steep.Any other gear can't.Last year I changed chains (both ) and you know that injectors have to go in order to get to the chains .I didn't have a pressure gauge to measure compression but the third cyl was noticeably lower .Little oil got it better so I think rings/cylinder wear.
 
Ok so is the car burning any oil? Is there a lack of power or any other symptoms? I'm trying to work out what causes you to believe you need another engine?

Where are you located? What's the mileage on the engine? Is it noisey after doing the chains?
 
First about oil. I change my oil every 6K. Between changes I roughly top up another litre .As i said I don't see any visible smoke when idling .Under load I am not sure but definitely not any black stuff.However at first cold start it smells funny for 10 min , don't know if that is unburnt diesel or cat issue. Economy is about 43mpg mixed gentle driving. The car is 2007 EX model with 104000miles .About the power- it is sluggish .It kicks a little at 2300-2400 revs and that's all.Last year I changed the chains because they were noisy.After that the exhaust manifold was changed at the local dealership and the guy said that the turbo is not great . I am in N ireland .
 
Without seeing and diagnosing it's difficult to say but 1 litre of oil every 6k miles is well within tolerance and I doubt you have worn rings.

The sluggishness could be something else and most likely a bad egr valve which can be blanked and mapped out.

The funny smell could also be something else but needs a bit more diagnosis.

105k miles is nothing for this engine or even turbo.

Can you get someone to run some functional tests with a honda or snap on diagnostic? Check the injector calibration, turbo actuator, imrc, egr and fuel pressure test.
 
Iron Man, first I live in Ireland .Diesel here is rubbish, lots of fuel laundering one can never know which petrol station is affected.Then people here in general neglect their cars. Lots of short shopping trips , school runs and no one bothers to use the right oil which for honda is a must. Other funny thing I have seen a Honda 3-4 years old from a main dealership with "full honda service history" where first oil change was done at 25k miles in the first year.When I asked why the guy said " you need one oil change per year".Can you imagine, that is a main honda dealership. I wouldn't trust them to change my wipers let alone a simple oil change.Anyway , Fahad , I myself have honda HMI and it doesn't show any faults.When the injectors were out I checked the numbers and later the reader confirm their position so that's ok. EGR ok .I can see the shaft moving when I run egr test.Similar thing with the turbo.I dont know how much I can trust these tests. I can take EGR out and clean it for a peace of mind. It's vacuum actuated, isn't?
One other thing guys.With engine running and taking oil cap off there is smoke coming out, no much but visible and lots of oil splatter. I specifically checked a few good engines and there is no smoke at all and no or very little splatter.
 
Ok so if the tests are working correctly they are showing that your egr and turbo actuators are working but they can't confirm that the turbo is operating fully or that the egr is actually closing properly.

If you have access to a diagnostic then that's great. Can you try temporarily blanking your egr valve. Do it right at the inlet manifold. Either buy a laser cut plate off ebay or make one up with some sheet metal.

It will cause an error that you can clear off yourself once you're done but if the power returns then you've pinpointed the problem.

If that doesn't work then I would suggest either the turbo or the actuator vac lines need to be checked and replaced.

Normally a turbo issue will trigger a high or low boost error but not always.

Have you ever seen any errors for anything at all? The other thing to consider is that your ecu might have been flashed with a bad map. I'm seeing more and more ecu's that have had dtc deletes carried out and it means any diagnostics are then near impossible as people try to hide errors to sell on cars.
 
Thanks Fahad .I will follow your advice about EGR this weekend if the weather allows it.About bad map thing a few months ago I read or try to read my ECU with
MPPS but don't know if is good or complete
 
Send me the ecu read on info@premiertuning.com I'll check it.
 
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