found a connector!
- Thread starter ATR888
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Pics please and we can then advise
thanks for replies guys, ive manage to peel back the wire plastic protector notice 2 wires, one was black and white, and the other is red and green, any clues of what it is?
loving this car, but just one problem after the other, and its feeling a little sluggish around the 2k rpm range in all gears apart from 1st and 5th gear. when i floor it, it goes smooth again, and no lag or anything, feel it when just cruising around.
hope these pics help
loving this car, but just one problem after the other, and its feeling a little sluggish around the 2k rpm range in all gears apart from 1st and 5th gear. when i floor it, it goes smooth again, and no lag or anything, feel it when just cruising around.
hope these pics help
my eml is on, but when i done a diagnostic test, i get a 23 code along with 71,72,73, and 74
23 is a knock sensor, and the 71, 72, 73, and 74 is the cylinders misfiring, but i dont know what i can do to fix them, im going to give a service with mobil 5w40 fully synthetic, air filter, platinum plugs, fuel filter, genuine honda oil filter. a new knock sensor. hopefully changing the sparks plugs can help with the misfiring, but as its me, its never that simple. :angry:
23 is a knock sensor, and the 71, 72, 73, and 74 is the cylinders misfiring, but i dont know what i can do to fix them, im going to give a service with mobil 5w40 fully synthetic, air filter, platinum plugs, fuel filter, genuine honda oil filter. a new knock sensor. hopefully changing the sparks plugs can help with the misfiring, but as its me, its never that simple. :angry:
If you have the EML on with a knock sensor code, it could just be unpluged, broken, or malfunctioning. My bet is that it's unpluged or broken, I think the ECU is not able to discover a malfunctioning knock sensor.
About the connector, will try to look in mine, see if I can found out what that is
About the connector, will try to look in mine, see if I can found out what that is
I have been looking at mine, and can't figure what that thing is. It could be from the knock sensor, but think it's too far away from the knock sensor, although the knock sensor is right under the intake manifold, over the oil filter.
Best thing that you can do, is get under the car, and check if the knock sensor is connected or not. It should be right over the oil filter, and it should have a green housing.
Best thing that you can do, is get under the car, and check if the knock sensor is connected or not. It should be right over the oil filter, and it should have a green housing.
Thanks for your reply skhell
Ok finally got around to servicing my car, got under to change the oil filter and looking out for a knock sensor, but had no hope in finding it. I was searching for it for a good 10mins, around the oil filter, mainly above the oil filter, but no joy, but I did sort of feel bolt sort of which might be screwed in where the knock sensor goes but not sure, didnt want to undo it in case oil might start leaking or anything, so I'm guessing that is it, but not sure. And guess what I found another connector, which is not connected to anything which is located around the oil filter.
And you never guess what, I found another connector not plugged into anything, but I found out what it was as the abs light went off.
Ok finally got around to servicing my car, got under to change the oil filter and looking out for a knock sensor, but had no hope in finding it. I was searching for it for a good 10mins, around the oil filter, mainly above the oil filter, but no joy, but I did sort of feel bolt sort of which might be screwed in where the knock sensor goes but not sure, didnt want to undo it in case oil might start leaking or anything, so I'm guessing that is it, but not sure. And guess what I found another connector, which is not connected to anything which is located around the oil filter.
And you never guess what, I found another connector not plugged into anything, but I found out what it was as the abs light went off.
WOW, someone had been doing some nasty things around that engine...
The knock sensor is that green sensor above and a litle to the right of the oil filter. The other sensor, the black one, just above the oil filter, I guess it's the oil pressure sensor.
Some times they get broken, and it may seems like a regular bolt while feeling it with your fingers, something like this:
It goes right in there. I guess the that black wire goes to the oil pressure switch:
Near that area, there is also a bolt used to flush the engine cooling fluid. I guess it's that bolt in the last picture, which is almost covered by that metal pipe. The knock sensor is over that metal pipe.
The knock sensor is that green sensor above and a litle to the right of the oil filter. The other sensor, the black one, just above the oil filter, I guess it's the oil pressure sensor.
Some times they get broken, and it may seems like a regular bolt while feeling it with your fingers, something like this:
It goes right in there. I guess the that black wire goes to the oil pressure switch:
Near that area, there is also a bolt used to flush the engine cooling fluid. I guess it's that bolt in the last picture, which is almost covered by that metal pipe. The knock sensor is over that metal pipe.
Thanks again skhell for your reply.
I think that is what im feeling, it felt like it was round and a bolt, so I'm ***uming its broken in half, That's why I've got a loose connector hanging there, any chance you can get a pic of what the connectors look like for the knock sensor? I've ordered one just gona wait for it to arrive so i can install it.
With having a faulty knock sensor, would this have anything to do with idling? As my idle dosent sit around the 750-800rpm range, it's actually sitting above 1000rpm, from range around 1000-1300.
Or even what symptoms should i be getting with a faulty knock sensor?
I think that is what im feeling, it felt like it was round and a bolt, so I'm ***uming its broken in half, That's why I've got a loose connector hanging there, any chance you can get a pic of what the connectors look like for the knock sensor? I've ordered one just gona wait for it to arrive so i can install it.
With having a faulty knock sensor, would this have anything to do with idling? As my idle dosent sit around the 750-800rpm range, it's actually sitting above 1000rpm, from range around 1000-1300.
Or even what symptoms should i be getting with a faulty knock sensor?
A few months ago I started to ear my engine knocking at certain rpm's, with the engine under load. I suspected of the knock sensor, but since it's way too expensive when bought at Honda, I bought a cheap one in ebay, just to check if it would solve the problem. Meanwhile I got the sensor, when I got under the car to remove the plug, the damn sensor got broken in half.... Then, after struggling with it for an hour or so, I wasn't able to remove it. It's quite tight to work in there. I just the broken part back on, and no EML turned on...
I got a breaker bar with a swivel head, which might help get the job done. Still, I suspect that I will have to remove the oil filter to do the job, otherwise it's going to be hard to get it out of there. Unfortunately, I still didn't had the chance to try replacing it another time.
Make sure you get a 24mm deep socket, otherwise you will not be able to tighten the new sensor.
Where did you ordered the new sensor and what will be it's cost?
As for symptoms, you could get pinging/knocking if it's not working properly, but in your case, since you have the EML on, the its completely disconnected, the engine should be working in "safe mode", I guess that would have nothing to do with your idling speed.
As for the idle speed, you could remove the IACV, on the back of the throttle body, and give it a clean with carburetor/injector cleaner.
About the the knock sensor plug, I gues it's the round green plug with only one wire (the upper one). It's from another engine, but the plug is the same:
I got a breaker bar with a swivel head, which might help get the job done. Still, I suspect that I will have to remove the oil filter to do the job, otherwise it's going to be hard to get it out of there. Unfortunately, I still didn't had the chance to try replacing it another time.
Make sure you get a 24mm deep socket, otherwise you will not be able to tighten the new sensor.
Where did you ordered the new sensor and what will be it's cost?
As for symptoms, you could get pinging/knocking if it's not working properly, but in your case, since you have the EML on, the its completely disconnected, the engine should be working in "safe mode", I guess that would have nothing to do with your idling speed.
As for the idle speed, you could remove the IACV, on the back of the throttle body, and give it a clean with carburetor/injector cleaner.
About the the knock sensor plug, I gues it's the round green plug with only one wire (the upper one). It's from another engine, but the plug is the same:
It was on amazon I got for 6-7 quid or something like, hope it does the same job.
After connecting the abs connector back on and drove it, I felt the abs kicking in everytime I was braking, even going on slow speed, so something else is broken, but what can that be? Problem after problem!! Argh!
Is it easy to get to the iacv and I heard there's setting that I can adjust it to, should I adjust or just clean it?
Looks like a purchase on a 24mm deep socket as I don't think I have these lying around. Would a spanner do the job?
After connecting the abs connector back on and drove it, I felt the abs kicking in everytime I was braking, even going on slow speed, so something else is broken, but what can that be? Problem after problem!! Argh!
Is it easy to get to the iacv and I heard there's setting that I can adjust it to, should I adjust or just clean it?
Looks like a purchase on a 24mm deep socket as I don't think I have these lying around. Would a spanner do the job?
Do you have the ABS light on? You might have a fautly ABS sensor...
The IACV is not very hard to remove. You have to remove the throtle body, and then you are able to easily access the IACV. I think that you can't do anything on it to change the idle speed, at least not in the 1.8.
I really doubt you that you can remove the old knock sensor with a spanner, it's quite tight around there...
The IACV is not very hard to remove. You have to remove the throtle body, and then you are able to easily access the IACV. I think that you can't do anything on it to change the idle speed, at least not in the 1.8.
I really doubt you that you can remove the old knock sensor with a spanner, it's quite tight around there...
Yeh I have the abs light on, only because I unplugged I so I don't have the abs kicking in everytime I brake. I've watched a YouTube clip earlier with a guy adjusting the iacv so his idling wasn't so erratic, and it did sound a lot better, Duno if it be the same for mine tho.
Would I be able to get the knock sensor out if I was underneath my car?
Would I be able to get the knock sensor out if I was underneath my car?
Which car was? I think that is not possible in ours. It's completely controlled by the ECU..ATR888 said:
I hope so, I still didn't manage to remove mine, due to the lack of time. But I have read reports of people which were able to do it. In the worst case scenario, I we might have to remove the oil filter...ATR888 said:
This was the video that I watched earlier, seems like a straight forward job, but as you said this might not have the adjuster in the IACV.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY
I hope all my problems are straight forward. And not a guessing game.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY
I hope all my problems are straight forward. And not a guessing game.
^ I queried about the above once, was going to investigate but don't think ours have it.
Have you tried resetting the ECU? I say this because I changed the pollen filter on my dads car on saturday which involved disconnecting a cable which powers it and this must have reset the ECU as I don't see any other explanation, because before saturday my dads car had an issue since he bought it where the rev after the engine was warm would drop down to 300rpm and surge back, it just keeps doing that up and down. but after saturday my dad is claiming it hasn't done it yet, so the ECU must have been reset and perhaps fixed the idle issue.
If you dont want to take the glovebox apart you can reset the ECU by disconnecting battery for 30 mins, or taking out fuse number 6 on the fusebox in front passenger side next to glovebox for 10 seconds.
Have you tried resetting the ECU? I say this because I changed the pollen filter on my dads car on saturday which involved disconnecting a cable which powers it and this must have reset the ECU as I don't see any other explanation, because before saturday my dads car had an issue since he bought it where the rev after the engine was warm would drop down to 300rpm and surge back, it just keeps doing that up and down. but after saturday my dad is claiming it hasn't done it yet, so the ECU must have been reset and perhaps fixed the idle issue.
If you dont want to take the glovebox apart you can reset the ECU by disconnecting battery for 30 mins, or taking out fuse number 6 on the fusebox in front passenger side next to glovebox for 10 seconds.
I've cleared the codes using a scanner tool, but that was when the abs wasn't connected so it would have thrown up a code regardless, I will connect it back tomorrow and then clear the codes again and see whats happens, for some reason i think it still be the same, as i'll connect it back together and abs will kick in all the time when braking, but I'll give it a go, and fingers cross!!
If that dont work, what other options do i have to fix it?
If that dont work, what other options do i have to fix it?
As exec already said, the idle control of our cars is completely different from that one...ATR888 said:
You could also try what exec said, force the ECU to learn the idle speed. First reset the ECU, then, with a cold engine, start the car, and let it run at 3000rpm until the engine fan turns on and off, at least twice. This is the proper procedure to re-calibrate the ECU.
If that fails, you might have a faulty IACV, which can be stuck due to some dirt. It's also worth check the engine coolant temperature sensor, that will definitely influence the idle speed. The 1.8 engine has two sensors, one for the gauge, and other for the engine management, don't know how it's on the TypeR.
Still about the idle speed, what is the speed when you start the engine in the morning? Is it the same as when the engine is hot?
Idle is normal when first starts up range around the 1500-1600 rpm, but when it's warm its revs at 1100-1300, then slowly drops, till I pull off and stop again then procedure happens again.
I will defo try that later guys update u when I can
I will defo try that later guys update u when I can
Hi,
This weekend I got some free time to replace my knock sensor. I had to remove the oil filter and use an articulated breaker bar, otherwise it's quite hard to space to take it out.
The knock sensor I got was a cheap one from ebay, and that was not a very good idea. A few minutes after turning on the car, I got the check engine light. In the end, I just put back the old broken sensor, at least I have no check engine light.
Now, I don't know what to do, a knock sensor from Honda costs around 200+€...
This weekend I got some free time to replace my knock sensor. I had to remove the oil filter and use an articulated breaker bar, otherwise it's quite hard to space to take it out.
The knock sensor I got was a cheap one from ebay, and that was not a very good idea. A few minutes after turning on the car, I got the check engine light. In the end, I just put back the old broken sensor, at least I have no check engine light.
Now, I don't know what to do, a knock sensor from Honda costs around 200+€...
It's broken...exec said:
I tried one from someone breaking a car in ebay, and the one they sent me was also broken :unsure:
I have just ordered the following one. The seller gave some good warranties, let's hope it works ok!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270568217614&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
I guess that is always the risk of buying scrap parts and second hand.
Didn't know the knock sensor looked like that, looks like such a basic, simple part, yet so expensive?
I hope it works, is there no way of refurbing them?
Didn't know the knock sensor looked like that, looks like such a basic, simple part, yet so expensive?
I hope it works, is there no way of refurbing them?
Got round to replacing the knock sensor, and still no eml on, woohoo. I've got another thread up but no reply as of yet, whoever had this car before, done a really nasty job on it, and its doing my head in as its not idling properly, the vacuum hoses has been messed around with, and not put back together correctly, and I'm thinking trouble looking for where they all go, and with looking on the Internet also.
I've still got a connector not connected to anything, its on the first page of this thread with a guys hand holding some looms, they connector I have that's not connected to anything is the one where his middle finger is. Any one knows what that is?
Thanks
I've still got a connector not connected to anything, its on the first page of this thread with a guys hand holding some looms, they connector I have that's not connected to anything is the one where his middle finger is. Any one knows what that is?
Thanks
MarcoSchaap
Members
Hello ATR888 maybe not completely helpfull but the connector looks like the connector for the coolant temperature sensor (at the thermostat). I've had an Accord Coupe which 's sensor was faulty and this connector is identical ( it had 2 different sensors at incoming and outgoing coolant pipes)...