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Help a 7th Gen Diesel Buyer!

babar

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Accord 6th Gen
Hi all,

I am looking to change car possibly to get the newer fuel efficient diesel range. I drive a 2000 2.0 SE Exec currently, and was thinking about moving up to 04-05 2.2 Diesels.
I am doing basic research currently, and it seems the Diesel cars are pretty high on mileage!

My 2000 model car is 120k, and many of the newer cars are 100k plus already. I just dont understand if I am looking at the wrong websites, or is it normal mileage for cars of this age nowadays ?

Also, having a Diesel 2.2 save me much over next couple of years over say a Petrol 2.0, if my annual milage is about 10-20k. Appreciate your advice.
 
Well, it all depends on your budget. If your happy to extend your budget I'm pretty sure that you'll be able to get a decent example with reasonable mileage, also I reckon that most of the cars have most probably been used as motorway cars so the wear might not be so excessive. It's true that you will save with fuel costs over a petrol however the 7th gen seems to be famous for killing turbos and failing tailgates (only if they are electronic).
There are posts with problems that members of TA are experiencing or have experienced before- http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/forum/21-faults/
I'm not trying to discourage you from buying a diesel but if you don't get a great one, you might not actually end up saving like you expected to

Why not consider the cheaper petrols, I would recommend a 2.0l because they do a pretty decent job of hauling the tourer around and are still pretty fuel efficient, or look for an LPG converted 2.4
 
Think you will find that the turbo's are actually pretty bomb proof comparing them to a lot of other makes, the occasional one will go pop but bad servicing and driving will be mostly responsible for this. The clutch and VSA is the weak link with dervs .
 
Well, it all depends on your budget. If your happy to extend your budget I'm pretty sure that you'll be able to get a decent example with reasonable mileage, also I reckon that most of the cars have most probably been used as motorway cars so the wear might not be so excessive. It's true that you will save with fuel costs over a petrol however the 7th gen seems to be famous for killing turbos and failing tailgates (only if they are electronic).
There are posts with problems that members of TA are experiencing or have experienced before- http://typeaccord.co...orum/21-faults/
I'm not trying to discourage you from buying a diesel but if you don't get a great one, you might not actually end up saving like you expected to

Why not consider the cheaper petrols, I would recommend a 2.0l because they do a pretty decent job of hauling the tourer around and are still pretty fuel efficient, or look for an LPG converted 2.4

Thanks for your reply. I am not sure what sort of budget shall I extend to ?
More importantly, are the faults appearing more in Diesels than Petrol ?

I am also looking the possibility of a 2.0 Petrol in '04 - '05 range ...
 
Thanks for your reply. I am not sure what sort of budget shall I extend to ?
More importantly, are the faults appearing more in Diesels than Petrol ?

I am also looking the possibility of a 2.0 Petrol in '04 - '05 range ...


To be 100% honest and at the risk of upsetting people the Petrol is infinitely more reliable than the derv. If you are not planning on doing more than 10 to 15k a year buy the 2.0. You will get a EX for SE money and all you need to do is keep it topped up with oil. You will pick up a car with a lot lower mileage for less money as well.

I don't want to start a diesel vs petrol debate i am just being honest. Buy a diesel and it could be costly, Buy a petrol and relax.

The 2.0 is surprisingly frugal as well.



http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201151436599345/sort/priceasc/usedcars/price-from/2000/maximum-age/up_to_7_years_old/fuel-type/petrol/price-to/4000/model/accord/make/honda/keywords/executive/radius/200/page/1/postcode/bh13ph?logcode=p



Fuel consumption (urban) 28 mpg
Fuel consumption (extra urban) 47.9 mpg
Fuel consumption (combined) 38.2 mpg


If you do a lot of miles (commute) get the diesel but if your mileage is average get the petrol.
 
I would drive one of each and decide. Get one with less than 125k miles and under 7 years old so you're covered for warranty. Petrol is definitely more reliable, BUT the ictdi is not 'unreliable'.

Also the turbo's are bomb proof and i've tuned Accord's with over 200k miles and original turbo, so please validate your information before you dispense it as 'advice'.
 
I would drive one of each and decide. Get one with less than 125k miles and under 7 years old so you're covered for warranty. Petrol is definitely more reliable, BUT the ictdi is not 'unreliable'.

Also the turbo's are bomb proof and i've tuned Accord's with over 200k miles and original turbo, so please validate your information before you dispense it as 'advice'.


I never said the diesel is unreliable as it is no less reliable than any other modern diesel but they all suffer from the same faults. If you can pick one up with about 120k which has had the DMF and clutch done go for it. But if it has not had either changed you need to potentially factor in the cost.

You can pick up a 2004 Diesel for about 3k with 100k+ on the clock and potentially encounter EGR, DMF, Clutch issues or buy a 2.0 i-vtec with 60-70k on the clock and not worry about any of the for mentioned.
I have nothing against the diesels and i have run a few and still use a Passat TDI for work but every one i have owned has cost a lot of money at some point. My Passat is suffering from sticking veins on the Turbo right now. I had a Mondeo TDCI that used to eat injectors and the DMF went on it taking the clutch with it. My other half used to have a Laguna DCI and the less said about that the better. All modern diesels are great when they work but mega expensive when they go wrong. And the Accord has inherited some of the issues they all have due to Joe public's desire for a diesel car that drives like a petrol.


.

Having said that my neighbour has a Merc E320 CDI That he use for an airport car with well over 200k on the clock and it has been faultless. Its a 50/50 in my eyes.


Edit: just re read the thread and noticed that your post was not aimed at me. Sorry dude
 
Was just gonna say it wasn't directed at you Neil ;) And I totally agree. As of last night, we have an Accord petrol in the household.. so I'll draw my own comparisons over the coming months.
 
I've just got me self a 54 plate i-ctdi with 130k on the clock and a service book full of stamps and i really cant fault it theres no ware on the interior that i can see and its a real peach to drive it all depends a lot on how they've been treated i think this one has done motorway miles.
this is just a thought with regard a higher milage car if you phoned honda uk and gave them your reg would they be able to tell you what warranty work had been done on it anyone ever done this?.
atb Alun
 
I think the basic rule of thumb is that the i-CTDi is a very reliable car, but it's not 'Honda' reliable - comparing it to the petrol will be a disappointment in terms of repair costs, but comparing it to a Fiat or anything French will always give positive results :D .
The other rule of thumb is that mistreating an i-CTDi is suicide, so finding one with full history is a must - if they can't prove regular servicing then walk away. Regular servicing proof should include either a full set of dealer stamps, or receipts of their own purchases of 0-30 oil and Honda parts, recorded alongside mileages.

Other than that, usual diesel/petrol rules apply. if you do lots of motorway miles or your journeys are all 20 mins or more, then the diesel will work. Otherwise consider a petrol.
I went with diesel despite my journeys not matching, because I prefer the way they drive and the power delivery, so also worth noting is as Fahad said; drive one of each and decide which one you want!
 
give Honda UK a ring and they will tell you if there is any outstanding warranty work needed.
 
for me its simples, if you do less than 10Kmiles...then go petrol. If you do more than 20k then go diesel.
If you are between 10<>20k then its a much harder decision. The last petrol I bought was a new Lupo in 2001 so I've got more biased towards derv.
All diesels have gotten less reliable mainly due to all the emissions control clatrap they have to put on them.

But I will make the point thats worth noting. My I-CTDI has never failed to start in the 3yrs I've had it, and even though I've worked through a few problems this year ( IMRC freq valve & new exhaust manifold ), its very worse MPG is 36 which is very poor..but that compares with the best mpg you'll ever get out of a petrol.

If I did low mileage and didn't have to accomodate 3 kids, I'd love an old S2000. But I'm in mid-life-crisis zone :-0
 
I think the basic rule of thumb is that the i-CTDi is a very reliable car, but it's not 'Honda' reliable - comparing it to the petrol will be a disappointment in terms of repair costs, but comparing it to a Fiat or anything French will always give positive results :D .
The other rule of thumb is that mistreating an i-CTDi is suicide, so finding one with full history is a must - if they can't prove regular servicing then walk away. Regular servicing proof should include either a full set of dealer stamps, or receipts of their own purchases of 0-30 oil and Honda parts, recorded alongside mileages.

Other than that, usual diesel/petrol rules apply. if you do lots of motorway miles or your journeys are all 20 mins or more, then the diesel will work. Otherwise consider a petrol.
I went with diesel despite my journeys not matching, because I prefer the way they drive and the power delivery, so also worth noting is as Fahad said; drive one of each and decide which one you want!


Nicely put Trev,

Couldn't agree more.

It all boils down to personal choice and driving style IMO. There are very few cars that can match the reliability of a Petrol Honda period never mind the Honda i-ctdi, personally I don't think there are many issues, other than those caused by some third party parts, which are issues that can affect any manufacturer.
 
just to drop my bit in...currently running my cdti (04) and has just turned 155k - i cover 300 miles a day on average, had her chipped by celtic tuning at 68k to roughly 180bhp at "fly". had clutch and gearbox oil changed at 72 and all be it for regular servicing every 8-10k by me have had no probs at all :)

main things ive encountered in nearly 5 years of ownership cost wise: beware of dmf (as i replaced with o.e honda parts) that alone at direct with a local garage fitting in conjunction with clutch plate and bearing was 695 quid + vat! not cheap but then she has now covered another 80 odd thou. without fault and being as i have just bought andys tourer i will not be changing it past when shes sold in feb.

seems to be minor electrical niggles that go - maybe due to high usage...heated seat bulbs and front main beam bulbs - loves to eat those lol but again due to the amount/type of driving i guess.

as long as the leathers fed regularly bolster wear is not excessive in mine and that of most cars ive seen.

main thing for me was the sat nav disc goin down about 30k ago which is no biggy as the radio etc remains unaffected and is too costly to warrant replacing from honda at least.

ive always believed in hondas un-shaking technology for petrol engines and God knows ive had more than a couple :) the diesel is a personal choice but at home the wife has been using my old accord for work and is getting about 65/70 from a 10ners worth of derv and in relation to her civic sport on an 05 with the 1.6 sohc vtec in it it relatively equal with mixed mileage. personally i love the comfort of all the toys and on a run even with usually a full load im still getting upwards of 560+ on a tank regularly so makes sense for me.

i believe the cost weigh out situ. is the bug bear here. put to me its a no brainer, 2.0 petrol 138bhp approx, tax for a year far excessive of my 2.2 138bhp diesel at (up til last year) 125 quid plus with the right map and power to weight much more tunable for relatively less money and far more frugal even in tuned form. insurance for me even with business use doesnt top 340 quid a year with a named driver and thats me at the royal old age of 33 living in the sticks with mods declared.

let us know what you choose huh be good to see another member of the 7th gen club and good luck cheers, al
 
I would drive one of each and decide. Get one with less than 125k miles and under 7 years old so you're covered for warranty. Petrol is definitely more reliable, BUT the ictdi is not 'unreliable'.

Also the turbo's are bomb proof and i've tuned Accord's with over 200k miles and original turbo, so please validate your information before you dispense it as 'advice'.

I agree with Fahad here (for once :D) the turbos are bulletproof, all you need to look out for is the manifold and VSA light (or just buy in warranty period)
 
just to drop my bit in...currently running my cdti (04) and has just turned 155k - i cover 300 miles a day on average, had her chipped by celtic tuning at 68k to roughly 180bhp at "fly". had clutch and gearbox oil changed at 72 and all be it for regular servicing every 8-10k by me have had no probs at all :)

main things ive encountered in nearly 5 years of ownership cost wise: beware of dmf (as i replaced with o.e honda parts) that alone at direct with a local garage fitting in conjunction with clutch plate and bearing was 695 quid + vat! not cheap but then she has now covered another 80 odd thou. without fault and being as i have just bought andys tourer i will not be changing it past when shes sold in feb.

seems to be minor electrical niggles that go - maybe due to high usage...heated seat bulbs and front main beam bulbs - loves to eat those lol but again due to the amount/type of driving i guess.

as long as the leathers fed regularly bolster wear is not excessive in mine and that of most cars ive seen.

main thing for me was the sat nav disc goin down about 30k ago which is no biggy as the radio etc remains unaffected and is too costly to warrant replacing from honda at least.

ive always believed in hondas un-shaking technology for petrol engines and God knows ive had more than a couple :) the diesel is a personal choice but at home the wife has been using my old accord for work and is getting about 65/70 from a 10ners worth of derv and in relation to her civic sport on an 05 with the 1.6 sohc vtec in it it relatively equal with mixed mileage. personally i love the comfort of all the toys and on a run even with usually a full load im still getting upwards of 560+ on a tank regularly so makes sense for me.

i believe the cost weigh out situ. is the bug bear here. put to me its a no brainer, 2.0 petrol 138bhp approx, tax for a year far excessive of my 2.2 138bhp diesel at (up til last year) 125 quid plus with the right map and power to weight much more tunable for relatively less money and far more frugal even in tuned form. insurance for me even with business use doesnt top 340 quid a year with a named driver and thats me at the royal old age of 33 living in the sticks with mods declared.

let us know what you choose huh be good to see another member of the 7th gen club and good luck cheers, al


The 2.0 is 155bhp mate. and 2 insurance groups cheaper than the diesel.

fuel economy is pretty respectable for a petrol as well.


Fuel consumption (urban) 28 mpg
Fuel consumption (extra urban) 47.9 mpg
Fuel consumption (combined) 38.2 mpg
 
Really appreciate the input guys. I am looking to change at the end of Feb, so will do test drives on each.
So if I understood correctly for my 10-20k mileage per annum, 2.0 Petrol would cost me less to insure and run ?
 
I wouldn't think so. But the petrol should cost a bit less to buy for the same spec, and if you got a diesel you might be unlucky and get a whopping repair bill, probably just after the warranty period. :D
 
if doing short journey and inner city driving consider petrol but the derv will be considerably cheaper to run when you include tax etc. Agree with everyone else but as with most diesels factor in cost of replacing clutch and dmf they are prone to go. I always look for full dealer service unless a specialist car, get as new as possible and have a listen to how an accord sounds as it shouldn't sound like other diesels that sound like a bag of nuts and bolts, search topic rattling timing chain. You can also check the manifold, search thread cracked manifold or similar. With abit of prior knowledge you can pick up a cracking motor which indeed they are, EX models will give you a slightly better spec, leather, electrics etc..

Turbo's are very reliable in these cars but to check that drive it from stone cold checking for odd noises and once warm full trottle 3rd gear it shouldn't whistle or chirp.
 
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