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Help! Nasty vibration through steering at 60mph

Have swapped the driver side front and back, issue still there. Then did the other side too and its still the same.
Any ideas anyone? Before i go down the road of gearbox shafts, whatever they are...
None of the wheels looked buckled but im not sure if it wouldnt be visible to the naked eye. Surely more than one cant be buckled...
 
Lol. Fed up after changing the wheels today.
Which wheel would i even try it on. Forget going through all 4.
No more than 55mph for me for the foreseeable haha
 
The first tyre place balanced two wheels, but the second tyre place still put 25-50g on all four wheels.

Did the first tyre place really get the balancing so wrong on two wheels?

If not then is the balancing still wrong now?

The mechanic was right all along about the intermediate shaft being okay, so maybe he's also been right all along about wheel balancing being the problem.
 
Really dont feel its the balancing myself. The first tyre shop did a quick replacement of a front tyre and balanced both wheels. Despite this my mechanic reckoned it was still the balancing and sent me to a tyre shop he could recommend. Thats where all four wheels were balanced and the extra weights were added after being checked. The issue didnt change at all.
And ive then told him to replace the shaft. All in all im about £350 down and have a new tyre to show for it that i needed due to a tiny bulge. Everthing else ive spent on wasnt needed.
As it stands im looking for a new car this morning lol
If anyone has any other suggestions they would be welcome.
My thoughts are a suspension component or a mount but thats another visit to a garage.
 
i cant imagine its a buckled wheel, it would have to be badly buckled to cause a vibration as bad as the one you have. was there any slop in the join between the intermediate shaft and the outer shaft?
when i fitted my intermediate shaft there was alot of movement in the splines (EVEN THO THE OUTER SHAFT WAS 2 WEEKS OLD) so i changed the outer shaft and was gone, vibration fixed
 
cant say its a buckled wheel either, having checked myself there's nothing obvious, all 4 alloys look fine inside and out.
I did ask my mechanic to inspect the outer shaft when fitting the intermediate shaft and his feedback was that it all looks fine.
From memory it wasn't cheap fitting the outer shafts so really don't want to spend more on an outer shaft unless I'm absolutely sure. Mechanic is going to contact me, there's a gearbox specialist he can get to look at the car and he wants to rule that out next.
 
Seriously hope thats not the case lol.
Had it at another garage this morning and they've said the lower control arms need replaced followed by allignment/tracking to fix the vibration issues, theres quite a bit of play in them.
All gearbox/engine mounts are fine and the rest of the suspension looks good 'accord'ing to them (see what i did there?).
£325 quoted to supply the parts and fit.
Il get them myself and pay someone cash to fit them if i wish to go down that road thanks.

Im actually looking for a new car now and loathe having to spend more on this issue, currently ive parted with £431 (calculated it properly since my est last time lol) to get this far (and that hurts).

Also, 15,000 miles ago i supplied my mechanic with new Moog control arms, front upper and lower both sides, they were changed in Jan 2020 (dont do much mileage) and i feel they should have lasted longer?!

Also waiting on my mechanic to advise further on this gearbox specialist.

Il need to think whats needed next, maybe get the alignment done first and see if that will show any difference before taking a punt on control arms.
Il keep this updated
 
Update, Ive had the lower control arms and tracking done this morning, issue remains.
Ended up buying a set of borg and beck arms which were on offer on ebay.
Back to square one sadly.
 
Further update. Gearbox specialist has checked it today and is confident its the primary differential going into the gearbox. Pricing ranges from £800-£2000 plus, dependant on a refurbed diff or brand new parts.
 
Lol. Tbh with the wheel arch rust and this recent journey im set on getting a new car now
 
ally said:
Further update. Gearbox specialist has checked it today and is confident its the primary differential going into the gearbox. Pricing ranges from £800-£2000 plus, dependant on a refurbed diff or brand new parts.
Click to expand...
A gearbox rebuild or compete swopout ?
 

Few gearbox jobs to do.

I have a bit of holiday coming up so looking at ripping out the cl9 gearbox and replacing the clutch and also looking into getting hold of an ep3 gearbox and do the gear swap at the same time. Also Is there a Lightened flywheel avaliable for the cl9? Is it worth getting one? As for ep3 gears...
typeaccord.co.uk
 
I dont think il be going down that road if im being honest, sounds fun though.

I do wonder if this issue could be caused by spark plugs needing replaced? Just something i came across online. These show as 25k miles for the change interval and its currently running on genuine plugs from Holdcroft Honda, im guesstimating they were changed just under 20k miles ago.
 
ally said:
I dont think il be going down that road if im being honest, sounds fun though.

I do wonder if this issue could be caused by spark plugs needing replaced? Just something i came across online. These show as 25k miles for the change interval and its currently running on genuine plugs from Holdcroft Honda, im guesstimating they were changed just under 20k miles ago.
Click to expand...
How long should a modern spark plug sit in the engine without being checked ?

Is 'gapping' to the correct distance a part of car servicing these days ?

Have you checked the spark plug model in the car is the correct one for the engine ?
 
From memory its NGK plugs that were supplied by HH.
According to the service book they should be changed every 25k miles, theres no time interval there and im another 7/8k miles before they're due a change.
Not sure about the 'gapping' bit
 
I did get a light but that was cleared and hasnt come back. Was around the same time, think i mentioned earlier in the thread
 
If it is the gearbox then it might be a lot cheaper to buy a second hand replacement from eBay for £100 and get your regular mechanic to fit it.
 
I dont feel its the gearbox myself tbh.

Ive watched a few videos on youtube the past couple of days on vibrations on the Accords/Acuras/Hondas in general. The videos dont seem to give a concrete answer but the comments left by experiences others have had on these videos seem to make more sense.

I lost count how many commented that aftermarket driveshafts cause this exact issue.

I had subtle vibrations between 20-25mph straight after both front outer shafts were replaced due to the outer OSF shaft snapping about 15k miles ago. This evolved into further intense vibrations at higher speeds when i started this thread.

If i could go back and start this journey again, id replace the intermediate shaft (which ive aleady done) along with the outer shafts at the same time as originally stated by @Nathjkent

Only thing is, it would be good to know which brand driveshafts are decent enough to do the job... Originals from Honda are out of the question, just the intermediate shaft was being quoted at £300+ with a HH discount.

The intermediate shaft i bought was Febest branded. The outers im not sure as they were supplied and fitted by the garage.

Ive lost the will to spend more on this for now but it would be good to know for others, the brands of any aftermarket drive shafts which either resolved the issue or didnt cause similiar issues after being replaced.

@Nathjkent can you recall where you bought the CPS one you mentioned? it looks like they went into administration a couple of months ago.

If i still have the car later in the year i might take a punt. For now im done spending on it lol
 
cps drivelink, i got in from PMA motorfactors, they originally sent me a NAPA drive shaft but the slop on that was worse than the original shaft i was taking off.
shafttech are another company that sell drive shafts but they are dog poo also.
 
This 100% sounds like a diff issue. I have had all driveshalfts replaced, wheel balancing, car lifted (was too low) and nothing fixes the issue.
 
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