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Jolts when I switch the engine off

TheJamMod

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Accord
Facelift 2.2
51K on the clock.

When I switch the engine off, the backend jolts, sometimes transmit to the seats. I always press the clutch down and wait 10 secs, then I switch off. Is this normal...?
 
I would start by inspecting the exhaust mounts at the back mate. They could be perished. No this does not sound normal to me.
Also check how much the engine rocks when you turn it off by opening the bonnet and getting somebody else to turn the car off. It could be a knock on affect from there so problem may lie there. Do you have any more details?

When I owned a passat tdi that had an anti shudder valve which failed on mine and caused the car to really shake when turning off. Not sure if the accord diesel has an equivalent?
 
I would start by inspecting the exhaust mounts at the back mate. They could be perished. No this does not sound normal to me.
Also check how much the engine rocks when you turn it off by opening the bonnet and getting somebody else to turn the car off. It could be a knock on affect from there so problem may lie there. Do you have any more details?

When I owned a passat tdi that had an anti shudder valve which failed on mine and caused the car to really shake when turning off. Not sure if the accord diesel has an equivalent?

I noticed that the exhaust back-end is completely black. I wonder if it will need replacing soon?

On start-up I get no jolt from the rear. It starts like a normal derv. Only when the engine switches off.

I need to get it on the ramp at a garage. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue?
 
The ictdi is exceptionally refined for a diesel and these sorts of jolts are not normal mate.. I would have the mounts checked as Shab suggested.
 
The exhausts are painted black and they will last a long time.
 
Something like anti-roll bar rubbers parished maybe? does this happen when you reverse stop and turn it off as well? Just wondering if when you pull forward and stop it raises the rear end slightly and then settels. I had this issue on my prelude and it was anti roll bar linkages which had failed.
 
Something like anti-roll bar rubbers parished maybe? does this happen when you reverse stop and turn it off as well? Just wondering if when you pull forward and stop it raises the rear end slightly and then settels. I had this issue on my prelude and it was anti roll bar linkages which had failed.

It doesn't matter if I reverse or not. I hope it's the mounting. I had a bad feeling it'd be the DMF, but I don't think the symptoms support that theory.
 
Not wishing to scare you but it actually could be a knocking DMF. Do you feel a knock deep in the footwell when driving sometimes?
 
Not wishing to scare you but it actually could be a knocking DMF. Do you feel a knock deep in the footwell when driving sometimes?

I haven't noticed any knocking in the footwell. Some vibration when the clutch is fully depressed, but not always.
 
i hate to suggest this but as F6HAD said it could be your DMF, i had mine done yesterday and i experienced said jolt when turning off, the engine rocked like an old tractor engine and it was the DMF

I hope its not that but good luck and keep us informed on how you get on.
 
It could also be a dodgy engine mount. When I depress the clutch fully, some vibration is felt coming from the engine and it jolts when I start it but not as bad as switching it off.
 
As suggested previously check engine/gearbox mountings and DMF firstly.

Mountings usually cause knocking noises whilst driving with hard acceleration or deceleration using the gears.
DMF usually shows by knocking noises if you press accelerator and then back off again looking for slack in the gear train or vibration.

If all of the above proves not to be the case it could be a leaking injector.
Compression ignition engines rely entirely on the air being compressed in the cylinder reaching a high temperature, the ECU then decides when and how much fuel should be injected into a cylinder.
The injected fuel is in an atomised condition thus immediately combusts due to the high air temperature.

When we switch off the engine we remove power to the ECU hence injector pulsing (operation) ceases and no fuel is injected into any cylinders.
If an injector continues to leak fuel into one or more cylinders than symptoms likes yours could occur.

On start up do you experience that you have to turn the engine over for longer than usual and on start up a lot of black smoke is emitted?
If so these are classic signs of injector leakage as the common fuel rail loses pressure (hence cranking) and black smoke is unburnt fuel in cyclinder.
 
Do you get any clutch slip? have you got any warranty on your car?

No clutch slip. No odd noises from the DMF. No odd noises during motorway driving. I have got 6 months warranty, so that's cool :)


As suggested previously check engine/gearbox mountings and DMF firstly.

Mountings usually cause knocking noises whilst driving with hard acceleration or deceleration using the gears.
DMF usually shows by knocking noises if you press accelerator and then back off again looking for slack in the gear train or vibration.

If all of the above proves not to be the case it could be a leaking injector.
Compression ignition engines rely entirely on the air being compressed in the cylinder reaching a high temperature, the ECU then decides when and how much fuel should be injected into a cylinder.
The injected fuel is in an atomised condition thus immediately combusts due to the high air temperature.

When we switch off the engine we remove power to the ECU hence injector pulsing (operation) ceases and no fuel is injected into any cylinders.
If an injector continues to leak fuel into one or more cylinders than symptoms likes yours could occur.

On start up do you experience that you have to turn the engine over for longer than usual and on start up a lot of black smoke is emitted?
If so these are classic signs of injector leakage as the common fuel rail loses pressure (hence cranking) and black smoke is unburnt fuel in cyclinder.

The engine turns over perfectly. No knocking noises from the DMF. No noises at all that I could hear.
 
My car felt alot smoother at shut down after a new DMF, and a slight cabin vibration on idle dissapeared too. I've heard pressing the clutch in at start up removes alot of the stress on a dmf as thats when the most forces are exerted on a DMF.
 
The DMF is covered under their warranty. I'll be taking it in a few days and I'll let you know what happens.
 
chances are its going to be the rear engine mount as thats the one that stops the engine rocking back and forth where as there side ones hold the engine up so check the rear one
 
The DMF is covered under their warranty. I'll be taking it in a few days and I'll let you know what happens.

how did you get on? i have same symptoms, replaced DMF, clutch and driveshaft so far but still get a vibration at 1700-1900 rpm and a judder through the car when i swtich off which i hadn't thought alot about until i read this thread......
 
how did you get on? i have same symptoms, replaced DMF, clutch and driveshaft so far but still get a vibration at 1700-1900 rpm and a judder through the car when i swtich off which i hadn't thought alot about until i read this thread......

I haven't taken it in because I want Holdcroft to look at it before I let anyone else touch it. It's not really bothering me and since there is no clutch slip or noise from the flywheel. I get no vibrations when driving, though.
 
Nice when it's simple :D
 
The problem was the exhaust rubber mount at the back shuddering. 30 second job to replace.


Great result Dharmesh,

Shows it was well worth the trip to HH.

Nice meeting you btw, did you ask about the headlight misting?
Here's a link to the posts on headlight misting for the forum Headlight Misting Posts.

From a quick look it seems the TSB was back in 07, although people seem to have had mixed success and mainly relating to pre-facelift
 
Great result Dharmesh,

Shows it was well worth the trip to HH.

Nice meeting you btw, did you ask about the headlight misting?
Here's a link to the posts on headlight misting for the forum Headlight Misting Posts.

From a quick look it seems the TSB was back in 07, although people seem to have had mixed success and mainly relating to pre-facelift

One of the Bradford lads pointed out that I'm missing the cap covers on the headlights, which explains the excessive misting! Going to hunt for a pair from a breaker.

The technician at HH said that you're bound to get some jolting, but the little exhaust fix cut a lot of it out.

Nice meeting you, CJ. :)
 
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