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low boost after manifold swap

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nickohlarsr

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Accord CDTI
Morning gents.

As posted before. I was a victim of a cracked manifold and 2 injector seal failures.

I did the manifold swap and a garage sorted the injectors.

During the manifold swap my mate tested against the evr and snapped the left tube. That was repaired in the hope I didn't have to buy another.

When I drove from home ( post manifold swap, pre injector work) to the garage I thought it was under powered. But put that down to the visible leak on the 2 injectors.

It's back now and like its not boosting.

No engine light or anything but dog slow to the point of being dangerous and struggling to get revs.

Now. I'm ***uming its something I've done as I've removed the turbo and reinstalled to do the manifold.

I've taken it out today In an effort to fault find.

Evr in place. Low/no boost. No warnings.

Evr bypassed, loads of boost. No warnings.

Evr put back in line and boot it. Low boost then 3 codes and a glow plug light. Oh. And limp. P1237, 2004, 1065.

I cleared them and they've not returned but back to low power.

I'm a daft or should I be blindly replacing the evr? Just reluctant without confirmation as they aren't cheap.
 
Just to add to the above. I drove it hard quite regularly before the swap. So its down to something I've done. All pipes are on and sealed but I have ordered some new vacuum hose to replace them anyway.

I've put a vacuum tester on the evr and it holds a vacuum but didn't change when I revved it. It wasn't under load though.
 
Sounds like you've damaged your EVR or maybe i'm missing something here..
 
nickohlarse said:
Just to add to the above. I drove it hard quite regularly before the swap. So its down to something I've done. All pipes are on and sealed but I have ordered some new vacuum hose to replace them anyway.

I've put a vacuum tester on the evr and it holds a vacuum but didn't change when I revved it. It wasn't under load though.
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Unless the engine is underload and moving the ECU won't get EVR won't change the turbo's veins. If you're getting low Boost and all the other pipework is ok, then it sounds like the EVR alright.

I am going to ***ume that the gaskets, seals, etc between the ports of the turbo and it's pipe work are solid? Did you use new gaskets?
 
Yeah. New ones all round. All Honda parts too. In respect of this evr...

After I've been out and then open the bonnet. If I remove the vacuum pipes from the top of it. Should there be a vacuum present still? As I can hear it when I take them off. Makes me wonder if we have inadvertently sealed something and making it suck against itself instead of the wastegate?
 
nickohlarse said:
After I've been out and then open the bonnet. If I remove the vacuum pipes from the top of it. Should there be a vacuum present still? As I can hear it when I take them off. Makes me wonder if we have inadvertently sealed something and making it suck against itself instead of the wastegate?
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The EVR will control the vacuum, under normal idle conditions you should have a vacuum from the pump off the drive belt regardless. What the resultant vacuum to the turbo depends on the EVR alone. Could you even get a temporary swap of the EVR to test?
 
nickohlarse said:
Long shot I know. But is anyone local to derby and willing to led me one for a few minutes?

Cheeky I know.
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Typing faster than me.... :) Is this a facelift of pre-facelift Accord?
 
Now then. Idling. The evr didn't show a vacuum on my tester. But then the hissing after a run out. I ***umed a damaged part would require replacement. Just making sure that it isn't something else with those error codes.
 
nickohlarse said:
Now then. Idling. The evr didn't show a vacuum on my tester. But then the hissing after a run out. I ***umed a damaged part would require replacement. Just making sure that it isn't something else with those error codes.
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For fun, I ***ume that the FSV is ok too? Is the IMRC clean, etc, if although the MAP is before the IMRC it could be throwing an error.

After the manifold replacment, we were getting P1237 as well, replaced the EVR and still getting the issue intermittently, the IMRC was sticking and throwing an error. Cleaned it and error went away.
 
nickohlarse said:
If the irmc thing is the similar looking item at the front of the engine. New one from Honda last Feb. Still looks new
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The FSV (frequency soleniod valve) is the similar looking thing at the front of the engine. This controls the IMRC (swirl flap) into the intake manifold that can collect carbon deposits and stick. It's a long-shot, though it does sound like the EVR is giving grief.

Is the pipework 100% correctly installed/sealed? The fact you're getting hissing isn't right and would indicate a leak or something.
 
Yeah im happy with the pipework as is a friend who wasnt there before I stripped it. Ive replaced tge vacuum hoses as after 200k theyd lost an amount of elasticity and I wasnt happy with the seal.

The hissing is only after I remove the pipes that shouldnt be removed if you follow my thinking. Like undoing a bottle of pop.

Is a 2nd hand evr worth the risk?
 
nickohlarse said:
Yeah im happy with the pipework as is a friend who wasnt there before I stripped it. Ive replaced tge vacuum hoses as after 200k theyd lost an amount of elasticity and I wasnt happy with the seal.

The hissing is only after I remove the pipes that shouldnt be removed if you follow my thinking. Like undoing a bottle of pop.

Is a 2nd hand evr worth the risk?
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Ah ok - got you know.

Re the 2nd hard EVR, given that you don't know now it's an issue..... they are circa £130 from Honda I think.
 
nickohlarse said:
I think list was 200 odd. Used. Circa 65.
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Maybe it' the FSV was £130 then.... either way I'd be looking for a swap first or breakers first.
 
I know someone selling one I think, search for a member called Sanchez and drop him a PM.
 
Managed to get one from a breakers in derby for £10. And now it's all good.

Had an initial issue with it cutting out once under power and flashing glow plug. That came with the code for fuel pressure something or other. Cleared the code. Drove soft for 10 miles as thought it may be air in there somewhere from the Lines being disturbed during injector work.

Loads of boost. Loads of grunt. Smooth and quiet. Jobs a fish.

Nice one fellas.
 
nickohlarse said:
Managed to get one from a breakers in derby for £10. And now it's all good.

Had an initial issue with it cutting out once under power and flashing glow plug. That came with the code for fuel pressure something or other. Cleared the code. Drove soft for 10 miles as thought it may be air in there somewhere from the Lines being disturbed during injector work.

Loads of boost. Loads of grunt. Smooth and quiet. Jobs a fish.
Nice one fellas.
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Excellent - a £10 fix! These are rare.
 
jayok said:
Excellent - a £10 fix! These are rare.
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Hi there

Sounds interesting. I still have low boost problems with my car and no diag lights. Tried changing the MAF Sensor. That seemed to help a little but not enough.
Has anyone got a picture of the EVR valvve and where it's located please

When you say bypass the valve, is it a case of just diablnig the sensor? As I'd like to try this on my car.

Thanks
 
The evr is on top of the engine and easy to find. Off with the engine cover. Then track back the wastegate vacuum pipe. That leads to the evr. To bypass. Just whip off the pipes from the evr and common sense connect them together.

This should, from my understanding. Give maximum boost so don't hammer it.
 
nickohlarse said:
The evr is on top of the engine and easy to find. Off with the engine cover. Then track back the wastegate vacuum pipe. That leads to the evr. To bypass. Just whip off the pipes from the evr and common sense connect them together.

This should, from my understanding. Give maximum boost so don't hammer it.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much. i'll give it a try :)
 
Ok. From that. Take off the vacauum pipes from the evr.

Basically you want to join 13 to 4.

Leave the electrical plug in the evr though. Otherwise that'll give you an engine light.
 
F6HAD said:
good result!!
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Hi

No it didn't help in my case.
Tried cleaning the EGR valve and that did the trick!
The boost was back! I couldn't believe it!
However it suddenly sticks again and then the EM Lights come on and I can't go above 2000 revs.
Switch off the engine for a couple of minutes and all is fine again.

So it definitely seems as the EGR Valve is the culprit.
Need to get it replaced.
 
If it's just sticking, but operating enough to give you drive, then our EGR OFF remap might work. The only problem is that we need the EGR to be able to close fully, so if it's sticking and not closing fully - this will still give you a problem..
 
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