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major help needed

M

mookey75

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Location
suffolk
Car
honda accord cdti
i have recently bought myself a cheap accord cdti as a run around but has a couple of issues hopefully can be solved problem 1 is gearbox 5th gear pops out when accelerator used problem 2 is i think it has a worn oil pump chain as i can hear it and already checked all the pulleys what i could really do with is the workshop manual if anyone has a copy ??? or any helpful info
 
What year is your vehicle ?

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
i have searched for a decent write up with pictures on the timing chain change but not found much can anyone piont me in the correct direction please
 
i have alot of views but no help ??? surely someone has a link to a walk through guide ??
 
Im not sure anyone's created one mate, searched myself and can't see anything. With regards to the gearbox issue I have to say it sounds like a rebuild or swap out maybe required, probably not what you wanted to hear
 
thanks i will order the honda manual and try to update or create a easy to follow guide i thought the easiest way would be change out gearbox but will update how i do it
 
There are a couple of timing chain threads I put links on to free online honda service manuals with all the info for the chain swaps.
I'll have a look in a bit for them.
 
nearside drive shaft being pain in the arse any ideas would be helpful please
 
Removal? Pry bar between the cup and the diff casing, only need to overcome the strength of the circlip, so doesn't require much force.
 
Same thing, pry bar between the cup and the halfshaft bearing carrier.

Takes a bit more grunt that side, and the shafts splines wear at that junction which can make it worse.

Might be worth giving the cup a waggle at the same time if you can.
 
still having fun trying to get gearbox out trying to lower sub frame without totally taking it off what an annoying job
 
well gearbox out along with squashed finger next job trying to remove injectors any good ideas
 
Some people undo the caps then crank the motor to free them.

I didn't need to, they came out pretty easily. I did undo the caps, and squirty some penetrating oil down the holes the day before though.
 
I tried the cranking which freed one and then other three came out with some penetrating fluid, patience and a little wiggling !
 
thanks i ran the car which freed 2 of them but other 2 tight how much waggling can you get away with ?? and sorry for showing my ignorance but undo caps ??
 
I disconnected the pipes and then got a pair of large grips across the flats of the injector and just wiggled a few degrees either way. Just be gentle and will be fine.
 
got a couple of injectors out i found by wiggling the bracket that holds them in first really helps then go on to the grips but the other 2 injectors are not playing nice
 
Put a screwdriver between the steel body of the injector (the wide bit where the fuel line attaches) and lever off the rocker box gently to rotate it a little, then the same the opposite side to work it back and forth.
You need to combine this with a squirt of penetrating fluid as, if there's been any blow-by past the injector seat, you'll have ended up with any rock hard ring of carbon sealing it in.

Don't go disturbing the plastic caps,
And remember to number your injectors as they need to go back in the same holes they came from.
 
I did the oil and camshaft chains on my accord. A long story that I posted on this forum. Although I've not done the job with the engine in situ, and maybe it's possible if you have a ramp, I ended up realising it was much easier to take the engine out.
I have various tools and parts that might be useful to you to buy or borrow. The pulley holding tool, 3/4 breaker bar and 19mm socket, oil pump chain from an engine that had covered 86K miles, workshop manual ( for a Civic with the same N22A engine), maybe an oil pump chain tensioner in good shape, and the chain guides for both chains. Let me know if you need any of these.
Re the injectors, I wonder if it is essential to get them out if you are just changing the oil pump chain? I had absolute hell on earth trying to get the injectors out of a Civic engine I bought, and never succeeded. If they don't come out fairly easily, by wiggling and light tapping, you could be in for a huge problem. Also the injector clamp bolts can break off. But possibly the chain cover will come off with the rocker cover still on? Then, from memory, with the sump removed, you will have to get the crankshaft sprocket off, but there might be enough play in the cam chain to do that once it's slackened. With the engine out and the chain cover off you could set the timing perfectly to TDC and make sure the cam shafts don't move while you do the lower work? Just an idea I toyed with after spending hours and hours on my Civic engine injectors ... ie, was there a way around needing to get the rocker cover off? Others might comment and advise.
Good luck, Tim M
 
The injectors need to come off to get the rocker box removed. I don't think there's enough clearance to get the chain over the cam wheels otherwise.
Even then you'd need to be a contortionist to see the timing marks on the cams and count the pins on timing chain.

As you say though Tim, by time you've removed the sump, two engine mounts and the injection system, you're halfway to just pulling the driveshafts and getting the thing out the hole with the gearbox still fitted.

I know if it was me and my car was at that stage of its life (and I obviously intended to keep it for tens of thousands miles more) I'd pull the motor, remove the gearbox, check the clutch and flywheel out etc.

Make it right once, then just crank out the miles knowing exactly what I'm driving.
 
still no further on with the 2 stuck injectors they are starting to seriously annoy me may have to call someone in i hate to admit defeat
 
They'll probably come out quite easily with a slide-hammer style injector puller. The seized ones in my replacement motor came out that way (civic's like to seize injectors because of where the motor sits in relation the the bottom of the windscreen - gets them nice and damp)

But, the issue then becomes that you need to have the injectors refurbished because you've had the caps off them.
Replacement injectors would need coding to the ecu.
 
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