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Many, many faults on 212K CDTI tourer!

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Plasticbadger

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Location
New Forest
Car
04 Tourer I-CDTI
Hi, as per my intro, my 2004 CDTI tourer now has 212,000 miles on the clock and it's clear that it needs some love. I'm looking to do most of the work myself, but may opt to put it in to a diesel specialist or Honda for some of the work. I live only 3 miles from Balmer Lawn Honda, so that might help.

So the car's done 212K. All service stamps are present, mostly Honda, right up to 206K. However, all is not well! I have the following issues:

  1. I get an engine management light on from time to time. No pattern yet to emerge!
  2. The engine coughs/cuts out occiassionaly when really opened up around a corner, for example onto a slip road.
  3. The oil level seems to be going up and the oil's getting thinner (diesel comtamination?)
  4. It needs the key on for 5 seconds when cold to start first pull (leaky injectors?)
  5. It rattles a little, more when warm. This is worse now, when I bought it there was nothing. Thin oil, timing chain, injectors again?
  6. There's sometimes a smell of exhaust on start up. I've listened for a manifold blow, but can't find anything.
  7. The car feels abit wollowy / twitchy. The front lower arm bushes are worn. Is it best to replace the whole arm, or just the bush?

My thoughts are the injectors are dead and it could need a fuel filter, but the bulkhead mounted fuel filter looks like new. I'm welcome your thoughts (except throw it away and buy a better one!)

I bought this cheap and I'm happy to throw some money at it to get it right!
 
I can't help on the technical side, but it doesn't sound like it's all that bad for the mileage! I thought from the ***le you'd be saying the wheels are falling off and the gearbox exploded or something!
 
HuskyMan said:
I can't help on the technical side, but it doesn't sound like it's all that bad for the mileage! I thought from the ***le you'd be saying the wheels are falling off and the gearbox exploded or something!
Click to expand...

Nope, other than a few stone chips on the bonnet, the listed faults and a few other things (noisy wheel bearing, worn rear discs) you'd be forgiven for thinking it's a done 50K. It's an Executive too, so plenty of kit. Not bad considering Balmer Lawn have an '06 on the forecourt for £9000+ and this was less than 1/5th the price!
 
Fuel filter/EGR is possibly linked to the poor running. Your starting issue is probably the glow plugs.
Replace just the bushes not the whole arm as it is about 1000% more expensive.
 
Welcome Richard,

1. Occasional ECU light will most likely be IMRC control valve. Its a little 'Denso' solenoid that hides just under the noise hood on the right side of the engine. I suspect if you got it checked, you'd get a P2004 fault code.
2. Coughing & cutting out could be fuel supply/filter related, but for experience with them miles it could be Injectors need replacing ( plenty of used ones around )
3. Oil level climbing could be due to the EGR system ploughing loads of unburnt crud back in the system. Again...could be back onto injectors.
4. Mine always started first click even with duff injectors. Sounds more like heater related ( actually I've never needed to go near the heater so don't know whether its plugs/rail )
5. You have to distinguish whether the rattle is chain...or tappet sounding. If its tappet sounding then thats injectors which are chuffing. This will need sorting asap as you don't want injectors seized into the head. Its possible the prevous owners might of had trouble and a garage has done a bit of dabling around at the detriment of the car...
6. Exhaust manifold is a known issue. Check the heatsheild for soot especially around cylinder no.4. If the heatsheild has 3 retaining screws then its the original..and probably cracked. Fortunately Fahad has posted details of someone who can repair cheaply.
7. Others already covered.

It might be best for you to go to a decent salvage specialist and bulk buy a set of injectors & an IMRC solenoid and maybe a manifold ( new version has 2 heatsheild screws ) and just get one big overhaul done in one go ( incl chain )

Good luck with it :)
 
Thanks Ebod, a nice comprehensive reply, though to do the injectors, chain, manifold and all the other bits and pieces is starting to get a bit pricey!

I'll do some checking and listening and post back later.
 
Ok, so I had a better look at the car tonight and prognosis doesn't look too good. I think the rattling noise is timing chain and it's still running quite rough. Looking at the exhaust manifold, I can't see or hear an obvious blow, but there is some soot signs and some smell of exhaust, plus the manifold heat sheild has the 3 bolts.

So, we're looking at timing chain, injectors, manifold and the other stuff! The timing chain change is starting to stretch DIY job, unless someone can supply a workshop manual.

Can anyone recommend a specialist / independent around Southampton or bournemouth? And a suitable breaker to source parts from?! Thanks!
 
Well, I've just had a more thorough look/listen by removing the engine cover and applying a 'listening tube' (tin pipe with one end in your ear and the other on the suspect item). The good news is there isn't any undue noise from the cam chain, the bad news is at least 3 of the injectors sound dead with a loud uneven clacking.
 
Plasticbadger said:
Ok, so I had a better look at the car tonight and prognosis doesn't look too good. I think the rattling noise is timing chain and it's still running quite rough. Looking at the exhaust manifold, I can't see or hear an obvious blow, but there is some soot signs and some smell of exhaust, plus the manifold heat sheild has the 3 bolts.

So, we're looking at timing chain, injectors, manifold and the other stuff! The timing chain change is starting to stretch DIY job, unless someone can supply a workshop manual.

Can anyone recommend a specialist / independent around Southampton or bournemouth? And a suitable breaker to source parts from?! Thanks!
Click to expand...


Silverlake salvage in Southampton for parts.
 
Plasticbadger said:
Well, I've just had a more thorough look/listen by removing the engine cover and applying a 'listening tube' (tin pipe with one end in your ear and the other on the suspect item). The good news is there isn't any undue noise from the cam chain, the bad news is at least 3 of the injectors sound dead with a loud uneven clacking.
Click to expand...


Me thinks you ought to consider a bulk buy service at a decent garage and get the lot done in one go. Checkout Silverlake as a reasonable priced breaker to get injectors.

Did you count how many heatsheild screws your manifold had ?

Not wishing to sound like a know_it_all but honestly look up topics I've started over the last 2yrs. There's a full log of SPUTNIK's issues which is a June-2004 Exec saloon with 250+k miles.
My only regret was the time I took to get the injectors sorted, I probably spent a year running a coughing/smoking dog. But since nobody else had such a high mileage car, not many could give guidance
 
Ok, so I'm trying to get the car fixed a little at a time, as it's in use 7 days a week and I can't afford to have in a garage for a few days getting everything done. My plan is to work at the engine and once I'm confident that it's gonna last I'll spend the money fixing the other niggles.

The manifold definitely has 3 bolts in the heat shield and after cleaning is showing some signs of soot, so I will change this in time, but it's not too bad at the moment so it can wait.

The engine management light hasn't been on since I had the cover off and cleaned the engine bay, so I'm presuming that this may have been a loose connection or similar, but will continue to monitor.

The injectors are pretty bad, but that's OK as I have some new(ish) ones here now. Does anybody have any tips on changing, removal etc? What do I need, new seals, anything else?
 
It's not necessary to change the seals when chainging the injectors, but i can't stress enough how much they are worth doing at the same time. It just makes sense to do them once they are out, and that way you have peace of mind too. It also ensures a good mating between the injectors and the machined seat.
 
BIG problem now!!!

On my way home tonight the car cut out at around 70mph and the engine warning light came on. On attempting to re start there was a clunk and engine seemed to lock up. The coil light is also flashing and I have the codes P1065 P2004 and P0360.

The AA man seemed to think my cam chain has snapped!!!!!
 
Plasticbadger said:
BIG problem now!!!

On my way home tonight the car cut out at around 70mph and the engine warning light came on. On attempting to re start there was a clunk and engine seemed to lock up. The coil light is also flashing and I have the codes P1065 P2004 and P0360.

The AA man seemed to think my cam chain has snapped!!!!!
Click to expand...

:( BIG PROBLEM :( Sorry that is awful
 
I reckon its the chain. Not a problem I've encountered as mine got replaced by Honda @ 185000 miles, £1300 quid job done 3months before I bought it.

Honestly I reckon you'd be better tring to source an engine from a private seller.
 
Plasticbadger said:
Has anybody got any idea what those codes mean? I want to be sure that the chain has gone...
Click to expand...

Always difficult to be sure of manufacturer specific codes, but this website seems to give plausible answers...
http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/p1065/Diagnostics/Honda/Default.aspx
http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/p2004/Diagnostics/Honda/Default.aspx

This is a generic code - which are usually simple to interpret - but this can't be right...
http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/p0360/Diagnostics/Honda/Default.aspx
I've also checked on other sites and this answer is consistent - are you sure you've read this off correctly?

Best of luck!
 
Thanks for the replies , and yes 0360 was one of the codes!!!

With the likely cost of repair, the time it would take and my constant use of the car (8000 miles in the 3 months I've owned it) I've decided to cut my losses and sell it as it stands. I've put it on eBay and had quite a lot of interest already, so I'll see how it goes.

A real shame as I really like the Accord and was looking forward to sorting the issues and having a lovely car.
 
I've spotted your ad and must admit I'm wishing to be a nit nosey and see what offers you're getting, and interested to see what it closes at.

I suspect you'll get lots of interest from jap breakers.

Mine has passed through the expense 'wall' and running reasonably okay now. But at 250+k I consider it worthless...but more valuable to me

edit: especially since I can see you paid £1800 and bought a timebomb, whereas mine a has had ALL the required work done and I'd probably bite someones hand off for £2k
 
ebod said:
I've spotted your ad and must admit I'm wishing to be a nit nosey and see what offers you're getting, and interested to see what it closes at.

I suspect you'll get lots of interest from jap breakers.

Mine has passed through the expense 'wall' and running reasonably okay now. But at 250+k I consider it worthless...but more valuable to me

edit: especially since I can see you paid £1800 and bought a timebomb, whereas mine a has had ALL the required work done and I'd probably bite someones hand off for £2k
Click to expand...

Well, I've had about 5 offers of £700 and a few higher, the highest being £1000. I'm going to run the auction to the end and see what I get. The car's really good apart from the engine, no dents, no wear on the inside etc. so it would break well or receive an engine from a write off easily.

Money wise I'm gutted. At £1800 (plus auction fees and collection, about £2200 in total) I considered it was cheap and I could service it and be done for a few years. Once it was home and I started discovering the problems I still thought if I spent £1000 and got a good few years out of it I'd be happy, but the way it's ended up I've literally spent £1000 on a couple of months motoring.

Still cheaper than a new car!!!!
 
Mines worth what you paid for yours
......but sadly I expect it would only attract the same scrap offers you are now getting. Hence I might as well keep running it..
 
Just saw what this finished for on ebay, pretty decent price considering its present state.
 
I'm not unhappy with that, despite turning down an offer of £1000 earlier in the week. All the bidders looked to be breakers so that's where she'll go I suspect. Probably a good earner as the body and interior on it were very good.
 
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