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Mirror, clutch, flywheel, rear brake calipers... it's a big Honda moan!

rupertbound

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Location
Wiltshire
Car
Accord 2.2 CTDi EX
Background: Bought 2007 Tourer 2.2 CTDi several years ago, on the strong advice of a friend who is a massive Honda fan. Purchase cost high, compared to my past motors, but we factored in the reliability record would mean low maintenance costs. Have previously always run second hand (and pretty well researched, yes I love reliability) diesel estate cars with repairs courtesy of our local (and marvellous) mechanic. I've always been wary of the pitfalls of the Main Dealers, and never flush enough to try, but this time I was reassured it would be different. Hmmm...

Anyhow, the car had a full main dealer service history (that's good, I thought), all at the same dealer. Let's call them Dealer 1.

Paid them a visit for a once over. They said o/s front and rear pads needed changing, plus a few minor items. That's offside, for those that don't know (ie me). Bought Honda Happiness (£275) for peace of mind, all in cost £513. Wallet winced slightly. But I thought that would be it for a while.

Some months later did 87,500 mile service at Dealer 1. Only a few extras, total cost £235. At this stage there was an advisory on the rear brakepads:

n/s/r aprox 10% worn

o/s/r approx 40% worn

Offside again. Not great news, but I thought I'd monitor it and maybe the gods would be on my side. Wallet was now breathing in...

First hiccup. Other half clouted a wheelie bin fast enough to crack the indicator unit on the wing mirror. Wheelie bin was not harmed, though marital harmony suffered slightly. Off we go to Dealer 1:

Replaced n/s indicator ***embly. Total cost £109. Wallet made placatory noises about the unpredicatable journey of marriage. Another visual health check, again there was an advisory on the rear brakepads:

n/s/r aprox 20% worn

o/s/r approx 50% worn

Still offside. Might have acted on this at this point, but see what happens next.

Car home. Discovered power fold on repaired mirror was no longer working. I ***umed that this would have been at least noticed by the mechanic making the repair. Then I looked at the paperwork that had come back from Dealer 1 - on the vehicle health check form there was a green mark next to the glass/mirrors/door locks section. Bit grumpy.

I then checked how much Dealer 1 would charge for this repair - £244 for a new motor or £353 for a whole new mirror unit. Wallet ran away and hid. I said I'd rather not pay labour twice for a repair that could have been done when it first went in. The response was an exact hybrid of a human shrug and the sound of tumbleweed rolling down Chernobyl high street. Circumstances meant I didn't have time for a row, or the purse for another main dealer visit. I found a replacement mirror on Ebay (c. £100) and fixed it myself. Dealer 1 off Christmas card list.

Wallet now breathing out.

Second hiccup. A big one. Possibly even a belch. Over a month or two I had been slightly suspicious that the clutch was going. I've never had a problem with a clutch before, and like I said, I hoped the gods would be on my side. The Honda ones. I booked it in for a check (local mechanic) but before I could do that the clutch went. Completely. If you want to know what that smells like, think of a Scalextric set from the 1960's, with two kids trying to burn the engines out on a Vanwall and a shark nose Ferrari. You probably didn't need to know what it smelt like, I know, but I'm on a roll now.

Did some research (I love the Honda forums!) Realised it was probably going to be an expensive repair, especially so if flywheel needed changing. Figured I was probably going to have to use a main dealer (special tools, stamps in book), but I'd ring around others too. Who was closest? Yep, I phoned Dealer 1:

£640, just clutch, inc VAT. Chap said, somewhat vaguely, that a flywheel was around £200. Not quite as bad as I thought. I phoned back later, asked him to check, and he came back with the figure of £967.66. My wallet screamed, and so did I.

To cut a long story short, I phoned 10 Honda dealers, one Honda independent, one non-affiliated independent, plus a transmission repairs specialist. The prices varied considerably, as did the advice on whether or not I'd need a new flywheel. Best price (independent), was £975 for everything, other independent said £1072, transmission fella said £1500, and with the main dealers the prices then increased to the stand-out and princely sum of £2169. Perhaps I'm naive, but I was extremely surprised in the variation in price, and advice, from the main dealers. Wallet, of course, was now in dead faint.

Bit more research. Various feedback indicated a LUK clutch kit and flywheel was as good as (or actually is the same) as a "Honda" replacement one. There was some talk of a special tool that only Honda dealers had. Plus, by this stage, I'm thinking I now want to fix this car with a complete main dealer service history, and then be done with it. I need to get a life.

So I called one of the main dealers back, the one that seemed most helpful originally. Let's call them Dealer 2. They knew all about LUK clutch kits and flywheels, and were happy to amend their original all in price, by using those parts, from £1600 down to £820. The only concern I had was the amount they were charging for labour, £260, which seemed very low for 8 hours work. A little devil on my shoulder talked about hooks, and bait, but I ignored his fishy comments.

I checked with Dealer 2 several times, that indeed was the sum, and then they dangled the carrot of a full service and an air con service for the all in price of £1042. Sounds good, or at least not-quite-so-bad. They certainly impressed me. The down side was they were over two hours drive way, with my car immobile down here. Fortunately I lucked out at this point, as my breakdown cover said they would pay for the journey. Wallet's still passed out, but I think I could still make out a pulse.

Third hiccup. Couple of days pass, then Dealer 2 calls. Remember the advisories from before? He said the rear caliper, hose, discs and pads needed changing on one side. The cost, using Honda parts, was a magnificent £921! I knew this would need addressing eventually, but how much? My wallet now produced human tears. So did I.

Right, ahem, that was a shock. Another one, possibly even worse, was the fact he said it needing doing on the nearside, not the offside. I'm no expert, but that sounds like a different side to me (see above, if you've skipped a bit, darn you).

I've spoken to him twice, but I'll check again. Is it in any way likely that the problem has switched sides? I hope he's made a mistake, and he's got the wrong side, but if he hasn't my now threadbare love for the car, the brand and its dealers has gone the way of the dodo and all the other things that eventually turned out to be a bit useless.

And what about the wallet? I'm now looking at a £2K bill, and all in all, over less than two years, I will have spent half the amount I paid for for the car. Reliability? Good value? Decent, consistent service? Advice please, or at the very least a hug...

(Mods - I've posted this in both http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/ and http://hondakarma.com/community/. I hope that's ok!)
 
Wow! What a dramatic story!

Very sorry to hear all those of your unfortunates, I was in the similar situation with my previous car before, then I sold it 4 months ago for this Accord.

To be honest, I don't 100% believed in the stories about reliability of particular manufacturers. At the end of the day, it is a machine, a mechanism, that will never last forever. I would say that depends on luck, because 2 identical cars can perform differently.

About the rear brake issue, it wouldn't switched the side. I guess, perhaps the N/S isn't working properly, weaker than the O/S? I suggest you to go to Dealer 3, or any well-known/trusted independent garage for more opinions and advises.

Hopefully you will get it fix without tearing your wallet
 
Good read - I think you've managed to successfully personify your wallet in my eyes,

Re the costs, Honda parts are incredibly expensive and on all but the specialist items, it's worthwhile going non-genuine (note I didn't say non-OEM :) ). The wheely bin incident could have happened in anything. As for the brakes, discs and clutch, these were always wear items (I know that's no help).

The problem with using dealers in my experience is that they want to replace parts rather than refurbish and only use genuine. So take the calipers for the rear, you can get a refurbished set for about £100 (if you give them your old ones). Set of new genuine pads would be about £40 and 2 x aftermartket rear discs say £100, 2 x hoses £100 (non-genuine). Parts bill would be about £340. Labour for this, including a bleed would be no more that 3 hours in an Indy at say £50 / hour, so your total cost would be around £490 vs £921. Yep, about half the price.

So, while I empathize on with your wallet, for a 7-year old car, you'll get better value for your hard-earned money by finding a good Indy.
 
Sorry to hear about the troubles you're having. Summarising your post it looks like you've had

1. Brake issues - pads have been replaced (it's not clear but I'm ***uming all pads were replaced) following which the rear offside has worn very quickly (possibly the brake binding?). You've admitted that you delayed getting this fixed and unfortunately it's come round to bite you, hard. I had a similar issue with my front offside binding, to the extent the disc was always a lovely glowing orange colour whenever I drove. It resulted in new front pads then a refurbished front offside caliper. If I'd got it looked at sooner I would've prob saved myself £110 for the caliper.

2. Damaged mirror - could of happened to anyone and again, I've been there. My rear bumper has a few go faster scratches/crack due to her indoors.

3. Clutch - again it could've been any of us.

I've got to concede that the variations in price you're being given for each of these repairs is ridiculous however not unheard of. I've had my Accord for 10 years and my advice, like that already given, is find an independent mechanic who you can trust and who won't extract the urine.

Stay well away from dealers, especially with a car of that age - the dealers see ££££s as you drive in the forecourt. Keep costs low by using refurbished/secondhand parts - the internet is littered with options. The most recent repair I had was a front fog light. My local Honda garage wanted £155 for the part and extra for fitting. I got a secondhand unit for £35 and fitted it myself!

I'm not meaning to sound like I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but as soon as you notice something isn't right with the car get it looked at sooner rather than later. It will always save you money in the long run.

Other than that, brake pads and clutch are wear and tear albeit the offside rear brake clearly had an issue which could've been fixed earlier. You've been put in the unfortunate position that you've delayed repairs that have become costly, then to add insult to injury your clutch has went.....Sod's law!

You're not alone......it's a sore lesson that many of us have learned the hard way.
 
Hi Rupert. You have a nice way with words!

I'm not taking shots at Honda, but stay away from dealers unless you really, really need their specific expertise! It beats me why anyone goes to a dealer for routine services and/or service parts. And - as you've found - 'Honda Happiness' is not worth having and will not bring peace of mind, whatever that is.

Hondas are great cars that are at least as reliable as the best. I don't think you've had that many faults, but they've been handled badly.
 
I'm sorry but I had to laugh while reading that - i now have an image of your wallet burned on my memory.

However, what you've been though is no joke, and it sucks. I would echo the advice of others and find yourself a good, independent mechanic who you can talk to sensibly. In my experience a main dealer will always just replace everything at the drop of a hat and you can't really talk to a mechanic about your issues, just a receptionist spouting prices and has no clue on the actual issues with the car. You also pay ferociously high labour charges compared to an Indy.

A case in point - my car failed it's last MOT on a lambda reading. The chap saw some small holes in the pipe which were the cause of the problem. A dealer would probably want to replace the whole lot but he just whipped it off, welded it all up and got it though the MOT and it's been rock solid since. He even said at the time, " a new exhaust will be really expensive so lets do this instead", things like that help you trust the guys dealing with your pride and joy.

Reputation is also more important to a independent garage so unless you are really unlucky they usually take a to more pride in their work compared to a main dealer grease monkey.

I hope you get it all sorted soon and have years of happy motoring, remember - once this is sorted the car should be top notch and if you sell it you might find yourself in the same situation with your next car in 6 months time.
 
BTW, if you do need to buy parts from Honda, then Holdcroft Honda is one of TypeAccord's affiliated partners... TA members can obtain a decent discount and free delivery by using a discount code available from a forum moderator.
 
I used an independent mechanic who is a friend through a friend. He fitted the DMF and clutch all in for £720 and had to replace the crankshaft rear main oil seal as he noticed it was leaking. It held his workload up ordering this unexpected part but he did it. I'm sure some mechanics would just ignore it out of convenience. Find someone you trust and enjoy the car once repaired :)
 
fantastic writing style, loved it.

As people have already said, stay away from Honda dealers with a car of that age. I bought my 54-plate car in 2006 from a dealer, but fortunately I know when I'm being taken for a ride. I can't remember the exact details now (I mentioned it in a thread a long time back, and the paperwork is in the loft), but when they did a service in ~2011 they gave me one of those red/amber/green things and the amber and red stuff came to well over £3000. Did most of it myself for under £500.

And I never understood what this "pay-up-front Honda Happiness" lark was about, though I did get my clutch done a few years back on a one-off "Honda Happiness" deal of under £600 (such a huge job I wouldn't want to do it myself).

But yeah, the rear brakes on these 7th gen Accords are known to be rubbish. Not sure if your car is Saloon or Tourer, but it is extremely easy to replace the pads on the Tourer, so I just keep replacing them when they wear down (btw, I think rear "OEM" pads are made of cheese anyway).
 
I did enjoy reading about your woes, Rupert. No wait, that sounds wrong. I'm sorry to hear about your woes, Rupert, though it was an interesting read.

I've just had a rear caliper replaced on my Accord Tourer. The official Honda price is about £440 (yikes) but Holdcroft Honda were able to hook me up with a supplier of a reconditioned one for £85 exchange (much cheaper). There are cheaper ones out there (I found one on fleaBay for £50), but I'd rather go with a supplier recommended by Holdcroft. Any half-decent car service place should be able to change the caliper for you much cheaper than main dealer prices.
 
Just a quick update. Firstly, thanks to everyone for your replies, it really is appreciated.

The flowers were lovely too, though why anyone would send them to a wallet is anybody’s guess.

Car wise things are a bit up in the air, but not in a glorious way like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, so I’ll feedback more fully later on when a few more things are resolved. Hope that’s ok. I’m listening to your advice though (why, oh why did I not post more before?), and acting on it. Promise.

Oh, the kids are in bed. Right, there’s a bit more time. More news:

The sun came up, toilets flushed, and I rang Dealer 2 again. I wanted to double-check where we were with the bill (before extras), and also to clarify fully which side had the caliper problem. I put my calm voice on, the one I model on David Attenborough. With a dash of helium.

Unfortunately the helpful chap I had spoken to before wasn’t around. Oh dear. Had he read my forum post I wondered? “I doubt it”, said the angel on my other shoulder (see above, keep up), “after all you haven’t really named anyone, generally you’re a reasonable fellow, and most significantly, you posted at owl o’clock.”

Good point, and as his voice was already less squeaky than mine, I was tempted to ask him to speak on my behalf to Dealer 2.

Before I could ask though, another chap came on the line, and I instantly realised that that was a rubbish plan, as I was clearly now dealing with a man who preferred to talk about things that actually exist.

Lets call this person Dealer 2 Man 2. Actually, why bother, because he doesn’t have a very exciting role. We talked about the price, and although there was a little confusion at first, which I’m sure was triggered by him spotting he’d spilt his coffee, he seemed happy with the original quote. That’s £1042, if you’re too tired to scroll up.

I then asked him to check the data on the rear brakes. That sounds a bit officious. Actually, I’d like to think I asked him which side of the car was going to ruin my wallet’s otherwise excellent morning (flowers really do work), but I probably attempted my impression of a fax machine transmitting. Anyhow, he reported back:

n/s/r approx 90% worn

o/s/r approx 85% worn

If you’re wearing the glasses I borrowed for that “Tora! Tora! Tora!” fancy dress party last year, then you might need a little bit of help here. What the rest of us are seeing is this:

VERY WORN BRAKES

Now you know I’m no mechanic, else we wouldn’t be here, but it seems possible to me that I just have a set of old brakes; calipers; whatever; that just need some love. One side’s knackered, the other side’s knackered, and that’s just about that. That wasn’t the angel talking by the way (Nam voice), and I’m not trying to get on the right side of my wallet either.

What I still don’t know is why Dealer 2 didn’t say “nearside AND offside”, but given the sounds of medieval torture pain I emitted when he mentioned the possible extras, perhaps he was just being merciful.

Anyhow, I have taken your advice on board, albeit a little late. I’ll take a train tomorrow, pay the bill and drive the car home. Dealer 2 said there were a few hundred miles left in the brakes, so I’m not being naughty. The plan then is for the local mechanic, the marvellous one, to have a look at the whole job and, with the benefit of some decent/reconditioned parts, and some cooperation from my still swooning wallet (they’re only daffodils for goodness sake), we might reach a happy, though ultimately expensive, ending.

That’s if the brakes get me home though. If you see me sat on the side of the motorway, please give me a wave. If I’m looking pale, then there’s probably not much you can do, save for tossing your last tuna sandwich out of the window and then giving me a cheery (but not too cheery) thumbs up.
 
"David Attenborough with a dash of helium" ... brought an image of the chief steward on MH370 explaining over the cabin PA system as to why one of the pilots was kicking the ****pit door shouting "let me back in".

Rear brakes on most front-wheel-drive cars do SFA. They should not really wear, unless you're consistently carrying dead bodies in the boot (I ***ume your Accord is a saloon), or, if the calipers need some attention. The calipers do not need to be seized to cause high wear, there are other issues that prevent the pads from "withdrawing" away from the disc (something to do with them not being Catholic).

But unless there is a squealing noise coming from the rear of your car, no real need to worry. Even if the rear brakes do start to squeal, it's still safe to drive to a garage.

You never know, you might even have several weeks if not months before the squealing starts

prepare-your-wallet.jpg
 
I find dealer percentages rather optimistic, or pessimistic depending how you look at it.

What Im trying to say is they just state a number without really knowing...in my experience.

Take my father in law...4 year old 8th gen saloon with 40k on the clock and the dealer told him his REAR pads needed changing. I had a quick look and there was plenty of meat on the pads.

Good luck with the local mechanic.
 
^ second that , i took my previous accord to have the front speaker replaced as part of warranty , and they said my front pads were 80% worn , ok at least 3 months out of them ... When i took the car down for a service to the same dealer 6 months later ... They said my front pads were 70 % worn ?? Amazing they have gained life over this period , they talk bollocks in the hope that unsuspecting folk will just panic into renewing
 
^ third that.
When I used to take my Accord for a service at the dealer (stopped doing that ~2011) they said it needed new rear pads and discs. Several months later the car passed its MOT (at the independent I've been going to for 25 years). I mentioned that the dealer said it needed new rear pads and discs, and they just laughed and said that is typical of most dealers.

Dealers will renew pads and discs at the drop of a hat, it's easy money for them. The MOT guys have said many times that discs only need renewing if the braking is uneven on the brake meter, or if the structural integrity of the disc is bad i.e. grooves, scores, rust on a disc do not of themselves constitute an MOT failure. Similarly for pads, there has to be some thickness, but otherwise it's down to the way the brakes behave on the brake meter.
 
^Fourth that :)

My Old car (toyota) had a main dealer service, they said pads were 60% gone on front. Those pads lasted 3 more years and 3 more MOT's without problem. Independent Toyota specialist serviced it from that point and never once commented that brakes were an issue.
 
freddofrog said:
...
The calipers do not need to be seized to cause high wear, there are other issues that prevent the pads from "withdrawing" away from the disc (something to do with them not being Catholic).
...
What could be those reasons? I've just finished replacing all discs and pads and after a short test drive I can tell the rear brakes are slightly on (discs super hot and smoking).
 
^ on the Tourer, new pads are sometimes too tight in the rear calipers, or alternatively, new pads not too tight but over time there is a build-up of dirt between the pad-ends and the caliper, causing the same problem : binding pads.

also on the Tourer, the rear caliper may bind on the slide-pins

Not sure about your car, which is a slaoon I think, but I have read similar things for the saloon

edit: forgot to say, rear caliper on Tourer is totally different from rear caliper on saloon
 
Yes, it's a saloon. Also all dirt in strategic places should have removed with sandpaper. That leaves me two things: too thick pads and/or sticking calipre piston.
 
matsalka said:
Yes, it's a saloon. Also all dirt in strategic places should have removed with sandpaper. That leaves me two things: too thick pads and/or sticking calipre piston.
try filing down both ends of the metal backing on the pads to make them a bit shorter so that they can move more freely in the calipers.

If the pads are new then the piston will be all the way in, if the piston went in ok then it shouldn't be sticking (yet)
 
Removed everything again and double-checked if all parts moved freely. They did. Then decided to take off those tin stickers(?) from pads to remove some thickness.

Here's one removed and one still on. Reassembled with no luck.

Then I discovered that the pads have some sort of nubs which should fit directly to a hole in caliper piston, right? To do so I'd have to rotate the piston to the right angle and then somehow carefully ***emble everything. Anyway it felt much easier to just grind those nubs away.


Did a test drive with minimal brake usage after that and the discs were merely warm.
 
the Tourer doesn't have those nubs, the piston on the Tourer is a simple push-back, because the hand-brake works separately on a drum that is built-in to the main foot-brake disc.

I think that all combined foot-brake and hand-brake calipers have those notches, possibly something to do with the hand-brake auto-adjusters in the caliper
 
The pin on the rear of the pad lines up and engages with a slot in the caliper piston on my Toyota... I should think the Accord saloon is the same.
 
I don't think that's the case. The piston will not even touch this notch on the pad. That is there to put the back lining on.

Can I ask if you have used genuine pads or patent parts from a motor factor?

Also when you installed the pads di they move easily in the carriers or did you have to push them in?
 
OK, maybe I was looking at the wrong thing.

But the Toyota piston definitely has to be rotated to allow engagement with a pin on the rear of the pad, as the OP was wondering. This allows the screw mechanism on the caliper piston to be held when the handbrake is applied.
 
Jon_G said:
The pin on the rear of the pad lines up and engages with a slot in the caliper piston on my Toyota... I should think the Accord saloon is the same.
from experience on other cars, that's what I think too, and AFAIK it's something to do with the handbrake auto-adjusters (which is why they don't exist on the Accord front brakes, or on the Tourer rear brakes)
 
So it is vital to have this pin aligned to piston slot? I can still do this, because I grinded only one pad on both sides.
 
Jon_G said:
There is a chance we're confused about the pin location.
it's in the 2nd photo in #21

IMO they should be there, but, I'm not 100% certain of why
 
I think it's too important to take any notice of my guessing... hopefully someone with an Accord saloon who knows what they're talking about will put us right!
 
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