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More VSA advice please.

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Worksop
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56 Ex diesel saloon
I wont bore you with the details.
But a little advice is welcome please. The head mechanic at my local Honda dealer said that even if the serial/part numbers were not identical, if the module came off the same model car ofabout the same age it should work. Anyone ever changed for one with a different part number?
57710 sef e610 m1 is on my car. Just found one from an 07 car. 57101 sge 541 m1 is the number. Is it worth a punt do you think. Its £125 so quite cheap!!
Also i cannot find the how too guide from someone here who changed his. Any clues?

Thank you.
 
don't think there is a how to guide at all for this. Jav had his changed, maybe drop him a PM.

I would always try and get the same part if possible, any experimenting I always try and makes sure the person who sells me the part is willing to refund/exchange if it doesn't fit.
For me labour costs are minimum as I do my own work however if your using a garage you will have to pay the labour each time unless you agree otherwise.
 
Cheers Shabz. Waiting to see what the dealer says as they gave me duff info before and im hoping i get some more help on a new part from Honda.
 
It's correct, part numbers don't have to match mate. Go for it as long as the part itself is working ok. I can recalibrate them if required, done one already in the last few weeks
 
I personally would continue driving it as it is (without ABS) until you have time to have it off road for a few days and get the unit repaired which will be a permanent fix unlike a used one which will most likely fail soon after.
 
I'll resurrect this thread rather than creating a new one for the same topic ... :)

I had my ABS unit replaced with a recon unit a few weeks ago, due to the dreaded VSA 66-1 error code. This fixed the electronic error, but unfortunately it also introduced a spongy brake pedal with excessive travel (which was previously rock solid at the top of the stroke).

The mechanic told me to try replacing the master cylinder as it may have been damaged during the bleeding process. So I replaced the m/cyl with a genuine new Honda part, and this didn't fix the pedal sponginess. I then asked him to replace the ABS unit again with another recon part, which he has done, but I still have a very spongy brake pedal. Oddly, the car does brake quite well, but I cannot get rid of this spongy pedal. It's disconcerting to feel the pedal continue to travel if you push hard on it.

The system has been bled multiple times by different mechanics. On the last occasion I took the car out and applied the brakes hard a few times to activate the ABS unit. I then let my dad have a pop at bleeding it, and he managed to get "loads of air" out of the system.

Unfortunately the brake pedal is still soft and still travels almost to the floor. If I pump the brake, it does get harder; it will then still travel almost to the floor if you hold your foot on it but requires more force after pumping.

Could someone tell me if the system just needs more bleeding? Is it just air that is stuck stubbornly in the system, possibly in the recon ABS unit? Is there a way to bleed one section of the braking system at a time? Is there a correct way to bleed a Honda Accord with a "new" ABS unit?
Or is this ABS unit likely to be faulty? I know it works when under hard braking, and it has solved the VSA error.

Many thanks for your helps :)
 
Have you had a look at the slave cylinder sorry blond moment that's for the clutch :wub:
As Jon said if there was still air in the system then there is probably more in there.
 
The fact that your Dad managed to get some air out of the system strongly suggests that then mechanic who did the work failed to corectly bleed the system after completion of the work. I would suggest the use of a vacuum bleeder, if one hasn't already been tried.
 
You've got air in the ABS modulator unit. This is something that can happen and needs a worm to take it out. Don't ask me what that is but I've heard of this happening.. It's not an easy task from what I hear..
 
Having had a long chat with the old man about it, he said that the front bleed nipples were a bit rusty, which suggests that they hadn't been touched for quite a while!
He did try a vacuum bleeder but couldn't get a good seal around the bleed nipples, probably because of the rust.

I'm going to try stamping on the brakes to get the ABS pump working, and then bleed again.
Failing that, it might have to be a trip to Honda to bleed the system whilst turning the pump over.

F6had, I know you said not to ask.... but what is this 'worm' thing you speak of?
 
I'm honestly not sure, I just heard someone in a garage once mention it..

It sounds like the front lines haven't been bled at all which is possibly the problem.
 
My old Fiat uno turbo (A few years ago now!) had the same problem, it was the brake master cylinder, has this been ruled out?
If I pressed softly on the pedal it would travel to the foor, pumping it would firm the pedal up nicely but only last a few pedal presses.
 
The front lines have definitely been bled now. Still spongy.
My money's on air in the ABS modulator, as that was the unit that had been replaced when this problem started.

Metis.... the m/cyl was replaced with a brand new genuine Honda part (at £350). So I don't think it's that, unless both the old and new m/cyls are faulty, but i think that's unlikely :)
 
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