Hi Guys,
Just thought I would share my sarrows. My accord died after 166K.
Had it for two years. Bought it to be used as a work horse for £800 with 133k on the clock, didn't care about the cosmetics damages it had from previous owners.
Always past MOT. All I had to do in the two years is change the alternator and rear calliper. Drove on the motorway everyday and was always comfortable and relaxed.
Would drive my accord mainly even on the weekends in the summer, as the A/C was like a fridge.
This year the A/C got weaker. Didn't know when timing belt last got changed and I didn't want to get it changed as it would mean my car was no longer cheap (didn't think it would be economical)
Always used good fuel. BP or Shell. Didn't change oil every 6 miles. Did use castrol edge 5w30 fully synthetic and recently changed gear box oil, due to mileage (honda stuff) but it made no difference.
Loved the BOSE system which was working with aftermarket deck, allow iPhone connectivity and use of existing sub/amp.
K&N filter in use with the resonator removed and NGK plugs used. Blueprint pads and disks all round.
In the last year I had the EGR fault code p0401. Cleaned EGR valve and placed new gasket made no difference. Suspect EGR intakes ports where blocked.
Got an average of 365 miles out of a full tank and lost a litre of oil every 1000miles.
I wanted to see my accord get past or up too 200k.
Anyways this was my 2 year experience to see how long a car purchased under 1k can be used for and how much running costs are required. Guess I picked a good one.
I am posting this as feedback for all the accord lovers, so they can learn the do's and dont's from my experience.
I had the 2002 SE executive 2.0l.
My bro has bought the exact same car with 61k on the speedo and it drive and pulls exactly the same as my 166k. That must say something about accords. They hold their BHP and ride.
I know you all want to know how my car died. Well the............ You guessed it ? Timing belt broke or slipped. No cam movement. Expected clutch to die before timing.
Just shows if you have a timing belt have it replaced at the correct intervals. I know I will on any cars that cost more than 2k. Or buy bmw with chains that don't need to be replaced.
Sometimes I have found people experience more problems being precautionat, as they change the timing belt on a perfectly working car on the cheap £150 or less and then have problems which they didn't have before. As timing is off and car may not have been bleed and water pump not changed.
Car now scrap for £120 with some parts removed. Mainly electric components such as switches.
Hope my honesty is appreciated. Anyone with a accord with over 200k on the clock I want to hear from you ? What have you had to do to get it past 200k.
Just thought I would share my sarrows. My accord died after 166K.
Had it for two years. Bought it to be used as a work horse for £800 with 133k on the clock, didn't care about the cosmetics damages it had from previous owners.
Always past MOT. All I had to do in the two years is change the alternator and rear calliper. Drove on the motorway everyday and was always comfortable and relaxed.
Would drive my accord mainly even on the weekends in the summer, as the A/C was like a fridge.
This year the A/C got weaker. Didn't know when timing belt last got changed and I didn't want to get it changed as it would mean my car was no longer cheap (didn't think it would be economical)
Always used good fuel. BP or Shell. Didn't change oil every 6 miles. Did use castrol edge 5w30 fully synthetic and recently changed gear box oil, due to mileage (honda stuff) but it made no difference.
Loved the BOSE system which was working with aftermarket deck, allow iPhone connectivity and use of existing sub/amp.
K&N filter in use with the resonator removed and NGK plugs used. Blueprint pads and disks all round.
In the last year I had the EGR fault code p0401. Cleaned EGR valve and placed new gasket made no difference. Suspect EGR intakes ports where blocked.
Got an average of 365 miles out of a full tank and lost a litre of oil every 1000miles.
I wanted to see my accord get past or up too 200k.
Anyways this was my 2 year experience to see how long a car purchased under 1k can be used for and how much running costs are required. Guess I picked a good one.
I am posting this as feedback for all the accord lovers, so they can learn the do's and dont's from my experience.
I had the 2002 SE executive 2.0l.
My bro has bought the exact same car with 61k on the speedo and it drive and pulls exactly the same as my 166k. That must say something about accords. They hold their BHP and ride.
I know you all want to know how my car died. Well the............ You guessed it ? Timing belt broke or slipped. No cam movement. Expected clutch to die before timing.
Just shows if you have a timing belt have it replaced at the correct intervals. I know I will on any cars that cost more than 2k. Or buy bmw with chains that don't need to be replaced.
Sometimes I have found people experience more problems being precautionat, as they change the timing belt on a perfectly working car on the cheap £150 or less and then have problems which they didn't have before. As timing is off and car may not have been bleed and water pump not changed.
Car now scrap for £120 with some parts removed. Mainly electric components such as switches.
Hope my honesty is appreciated. Anyone with a accord with over 200k on the clock I want to hear from you ? What have you had to do to get it past 200k.
