Need help with quite a few things (noob)

[CG8TypeReplica]

Hi guys, recently acquired a 2000' Accord CG8 from my dad. Its powered by a 'mighty' F18B2, which in all honesty isn't that bad, especially for an 18 year old like myself. Having a few problems with it though that I hope you guys can help me out with.

1. Had 4 new tyres fitted today and just now went for a quick drive to the shop and I can hear a strange ticking/knocking noise coming from either the drivers or passengers rear side. The noise can only be heard when I'm moving, and as soon as I put my foot on the brake, regardless of how hard it is, the noise goes away.

2. Theres a rattling noise whenever theres large vibrations in the car. Definately sounds like metal, just wondering whether anyone knows what it could be? Sounds like its coming from the manifold cover or even the manifold itself, can these work loose?

3. The car LOVES oil. It goes through it like theres no tomorrow. I've looked around and underneath the car and can't seem to find anything which would indicate a major oil leak. I was near the exhaust flexi pipe and I did notice oil spills near the passenger's drive shaft. It wasn't major though.

4. Intermittently when I put my foot down, theres a strange sensation of minor acceleration and then a few seconds later I get full power. This occurs when the car is fully warmed up, enough oil and at least half a tank.

5. This ones hard to explain, but when going over bumps or around corners there's a strange 'wailing' or squeaking noise coming from the passenger's side rear. Only happens when I hit a bump or go around a corner.

6. The brakes are awful, but my dad swears he had them done 3 months ago. The pedal judders under my foot under hard braking as if the ABS is kicking in and then stopping.

7. And finally I saved the best till last. Where are the low beam bulbs !? When looking at the Accord from head on the headlights are split into 3. The quarters which are nearest to the front grille are where my problems lie. When I open the bonnet and take off the bulb cover there is only one bulb which can be replaced which has the wire going into it. I've replaced these with 2 different bulbs and they don't work. However, theres a little bulb in the corner of that quarter which comes on but only for the passengers side. The bulbs which I replaced do nothing at all. Anybody have a cure for this? Full beams work fine, the middle quarter comes on like it should, but the inner quarter does not.

Thank you very much for any help you offer guys, little car noobs like me appreciate it!

** Forgot to mention that the car has covered 132K, so it's not the newest horse in the barn haha!

 

[rotation]

Welcome to the forum.

Hi guys, recently acquired a 2000' Accord CG8 from my dad. Its powered by a 'mighty' F18B2, which in all honesty isn't that bad, especially for an 18 year old like myself. Having a few problems with it though that I hope you guys can help me out with.

1. Had 4 new tyres fitted today and just now went for a quick drive to the shop and I can hear a strange ticking/knocking noise coming from either the drivers or passengers rear side. The noise can only be heard when I'm moving, and as soon as I put my foot on the brake, regardless of how hard it is, the noise goes away.

Rear suspension ball joints? Jack the car up, then give the rears a bit of a shoogle. If they wobble, your ball joints need replaced.
Unfortunately my knowledge is not very good, but that might be some help to you.

 

[exec]

Welcome to the club mate!

Some quick thoughts from me on some of the points.

3) VTEC engine do like there oil indeed. The oil on the flexipipe could be oil that spilled when oil filter was replaced, happened to me recently when I changed mine, the filter is on the back of the engine above the exhaust and such and you can get a fair bit of oil going over places in that area. Mine was also full of oil everywhere like on the sump, subframe etc, I think I may have a sump gasket leak, but seems nothing major.

4) You will get extra power when you hit VTEC, that's where most of the torque and power will come in around after 4-4.5k and before that the engine will start picking power as well. I do however sometimes find the engine being sluggish, like when you hit the gas its slow to pick up, not sure why though...

6) Brakes are awful on mine aswell, but my brakes need doing, have you checked the condition of your discs, there not warped or anything?

 

[CG8TypeReplica]

Thanks for your speedy replies guys, couldn't have asked for more !

Will definitely take a look at the rears tomorrow rotation, hope its nothing big. Read that it could be some tabs which hold the brake pad in place have worked loose when the guy was changing tyres, do you know whereabouts the tabs are on the Accord?. Hope its not a big job.

Thanks for that info Exec, explains why I'm suddenly thrown forward hahah. Also mate, how would I check for warped disks? Do i just take the wheel off and run my hand around the disk? What should I look for?

Thanks again for the replies guys and thanks for the warm welcomes.

 

[AndyB1976]

1) If its only happened since you got new tyres, logically its something to do with them or the wheels maybe not fully tightened (80ft-lb). You might have an issue with the brakes somewhere. Its a good idea to get the rear wheels off and have a good look around the wheel and then have a look or pull on the caliper and mount. I've got a rear brake howto in the 6th gen section.

2) I'm getting a rattle from mine which I still haven't tracked down. The 1st place to look/rule-out is the CAT heat-shield. The corners typically corrode so the heat-shield might look ok by visual inspection but you might find you can pry up on the corners. I got a large jubilee clip from Halfords that fits right around the heat-shield. Valves can get a bit rattly but there wouldn't be affected by external vibrations.

3) I go through some oil, maybe around 0.5ltr every 3000miles. The oil filter is just above and forward of the midshaft, when you undo it you usually get spill on that midshaft. Here you can see the flexpipe and the midshaft - the sump bolt is almost directly below the oil filter location.

4) Usually when you floor the accelerator the fuel injection system opens/prolongs the injector pulse (injector open time) and basically dumps more fuel in. In basic terms (and not saying this is how Honda works) the engine management takes a reading from the Throttle Position Sensor (amongst others) which would normally be gradually increasing and then adjust the fuel pulse. If you jump on the throttle, the computer see the TPS spike and tries to dump the fuel in to deliver the power. The computer is also reading RPM, MAP, O2 and adjust (advance/retard) timing so if you have a extreme situation here you might find a sensor could be on the way out.

5) Likely ARB Droplinks. Get a large prybar and try and pry the AntiRoll Bar aswell as the droplink top and bottom. You might find the droplink is already detached or prying on it will break it off. Don't worry about this, if there is already play in it, it will need replaced sooner than later anyway.

6)Check the discs aren't warped. Look at the pads and see if the wear is straight and equal on the each side. The front slide bolts get tightened to 20ft-lb and the carrier bolts to 80ft-lb so have a look there too. Also might be an idea to bleed the system out if its not been done for a while.


7) If both lights are out on the same circuit you want to be be looking at fuses or relays. You have three fuse box locations, driver side, passenger footwell and engine bay so hve a look around there.

 

[CG8TypeReplica]

Oh God, if I could kiss you I would :lol:!

Can't thank you enough mate! Got 1 final question for you, if you don't mind answering that is.

How is the door strip/moulding held on? The Type R accord doesn't seem to have it and instead just has the indentation, do you know whether the non Type R's are held on by adhesive or something?

Thanks again buddy!!

 

[BlueVTEC]

Non-ATR's have the trim clipped in place.

 

[CG8TypeReplica]

Thank you all very much for your help. A few of these problems are on the way to sorting themselves out now.

I have a few more questions for you guys (I know, its getting boring now ):

1. Does the F20B6 Engine bolt up to the F18B2 Gearbox, or will I have to swap Gearboxes if I want to swap engines? I'm kinda hoping I can just straight swap the block in. Also, would the wiring harness be simple plug and play? I can't see too many differences between the F18 and F20 apart from it being a 2.0l.

Thanks!

 

[exec]

Not sure if the gearbox will work out of the box, but other things will need adjusting like 02 sensor I believe, really not worth doing a swap with those two as the difference is minimal, a H22 on the other hand.... B)